I’ve always set fence posts in concrete with several inches of gravel in the bottom.
With about 40 posts to set for my new fencing project, I’m not looking forward to all of that mixing. What do you guys think about the concrete you pour in dry and then add water? Sure seems easier.
What are your thoughts? Are there other alternatives just as good? Someone once mentioned just setting them in gravel, but I’d worry about getting them packed in nice and solid.
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Morton always sets thier posts and then pours the cement in...says natural moisture sets the concrete evantually.
I've always used just the dry gravel, keeps water away from the post.
Seems like it would be hard to get a finished tapered top to the concrete for run-off if you pour it in dry. Could I come back in later and just add a scoop of wet concrete as a cap?
Anyone else tried the dry concrete method? I'm thinking it would be a time saver, but I want it to be sturdy also.
Ever go back and pick up a bag that has been laying around?
It never really got soaked, just damp.
Now you have a odd shaped block of concrete.
Pour it in dry, tamp it a bit and it will be plenty sturdy.
At least that's my thought on the subject.
And as far a going back and adding a cap. Of course you can, it's your fence.View Image
I prefer to set the posts in limestone gravel. The mix of aggregate sizes tamps VERY tight. Never had a problem in that regard. Keeps the post well drained in the most vulnerable zone too.......the first 6"- 8" or so below the surface. That's where they like to rot due to bacterial activity on damp wood. Deeper down (at least around here) the post will outlive its installer even if he's a teenager.
Although I like to see the gravel under the post as well, I'll admit I do things differently when installing preassembled fence panels. (No, not those things you can buy....the ones we've made ourselves)
We're reasonably careful as we dig the series of holes first (3' deep minimum mostly) and then pour several inches of some fairly loose concrete in the bottom of the hole. Poke it a bit with a square of ply tacked on the end of a stick and it's self-leveled. Let that harden up for a few days and then proceed to set fence. First post gets set, then fasten one end of an assembled panel to it (temp blocks on post to rest the panel on). Other end of that panel and a straight string tells you where to set the next post and the flat concrete bottom allows for really easy post sliding and positioning. Fasten those together and and tamp in plumb with gravel. Next panel. Next post.
Accurate, fast and frustration free. No need for all those nasty well-worn four letter words. Strong solid result.
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Edited 9/13/2003 1:48:47 PM ET by GOLDHILLER
With that many holes why not call the local ready mix?
I used the add-water-later concrete once, didn't seem any different from doing the same with regular old bags. Just a higher price, but it was only once so.
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You can pack inch minus nearly as tight as that concrete will hold. I never use crete around posts. The rough edges just give frost a place to grip and heave them up and out. Plus, if you don't use PT posts, the crete holds water tight to the wood and hastens rot. Even with PT, the held water will expand the wood fibre and bruise it so that it fits more loosely after a while.
Every post i have ever seen that was set in crete is loose and wobbly after a few years because of that and because the crete breaks att he post corners where the held water froze and expanded out. The gravel does not hold water and it is self healing.
Use gravel and tamp it. Much better and easier than concrete.
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