I replaced a 6x6x16 Cedar Fence Post today that had sheared off at the ground after 5 years due to extreme rot. When pulling it out it appeared that the post had been set in gravel, after talking to the HO he confirmed this fact. I talked later with another carp and he said this method has been used alot and works 99% of the time. Does anyone have an experience with this post install method?
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I too have seen this method used many times. I believe it's to allow water to wick away from the end grain. Now when I make repairs I wrap the buried section in peel and stick Grace 9", same stuff I use to seal new window installations.
Wouldn't that retain whatever moisture creeps thru and down the wood grain itself?
If wood stays soaked it's in an anaerobic state and won't decay. At least that's the theory.
I would use the gravel method myself, if setting fenceposts.
Mention setting posts in concrete and you'll get a dozen replies from folks on this site that say tamped gravel is the way to go.
I think that if you have drainage, you bet.
If the foot of the post is going to be wet 1/2 the year, or more like here in OR, it's best to set them in Concrete.
I did a 'screen' last summer where I put the posts in concrete, but soaked 'em in 'terminix' or whatever that preservative is called... first. Then wrapped in I&W shield, before setting.
My theory was if they do get wet, the post in the open air is likely to pull moisture up and out to the air, if it's sealed well enough below. We'll see how it goes.
Fun fence--set on a 25' radius and stretched with trex. THe infill is polycarbonate roofing and the cap is cut from 2 2x8 cedar boards.
"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."
Thats a pretty cool fence!
Doug
Done a couple curved ones now.
It's fun!"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."
maybe Pete will want to hang street signs off of it....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
nice...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I never know,, but some day,, I wish someone would write the book on definative answers to all these questions. Setting posts- on limestone screenings? tamped gravel? Gravel all the way up? wrapped with tar paper, poly, ice and water or creosote?
How about how to properly insulate an older basement? That'd get a bazillioin this is exactly how you do it.
I'll keep reading! ( I set mine on limestone,, was wondering about drilling a hole and filling it every now and then with wood preservative at ground level,,, but not when the wife is looking!
d
Totally...
I think it really matters what climate you're in.
A Portland OR guy in recent articles tamps dry cement around his posts.. Then pours a little cap on top.
Moisture from the ground migrates in and cures the crete.
I dunno."Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."
sounds fine till you have to re set the posts.
I so wish for someone to come up with that final answer. I'm in canada,, cold winters,, wet springs,, hot summers,,,,,,,,
I do like the idea of the slow set concrete,, but what time of year do you set it at. or?Its a horse thing!
I have done that , it works. Have also done dirt packed, gravel packed and wet set concrete. IMO a lot depends on the ground. Clay and the rains we have here mean a post set in gravel will be in standing water for about 1/2 the year. The other half the year it will be dry as a bone. I just use PT posts anymore and quit worrying about it.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.