Wondering if anyone has any experience with using those off stud joiners with f/c lap siding, or is it better to cut the planks so they butt over the studs.
Also – I need to patch some foundation cracks and wondered about the best materials and techniques. I was just going to pack mortor into the cracks and trowel it smooth.
thanks
Replies
I haven't seen them, but I think it is better to have the ends land on a stud. The joiners may work well on a smooth wall, but a slightly wavy wall might not work so well. Again, no experience with joiners, but some with studs.
"Land on a stud"?
Even if you did manage to land all your butt joints on a stud, how would you nail them into that stud? What would be the point?
Let 'em land where they land. Spline 'em. Back caulk them. Face nail each side of the butt about 1+1/2" from the end of the board. That's what we do.
I was taught years ago when we did real wood claps, that you land on a stud. I have carried this over to installing fibre cement siding. I know that the ends are nailed into a stud and don't have to worry about them floating. Just my way I guess.
Yeah, I'm with you on wood siding, where you can toe nail to catch the stud. Plus, wood siding cups and wants to move a lot more than F.C.
Different product, different characteristcs. But then again, we don't get very dramatic temperature or humidity swings hereabouts. Probably be a different set of techniques elsewhere.
I still like to catch a stud.
I have never blown off a corner with my siding gun, I always try to hit the stud at both sides of the butt joint too.
My experience with Hardi sez if you put a nail that close to the end, it will break off.
Maybe if you drill & hand nail it, but gun nails will blow the corner off.
Joe H
I did my house 7 years ago....only blind nailed and put butts at stud. I nailed it all by hand and I predrilled on the ends, so I could get both planks nailed into the stud. Holding up well.
I also put tar strips behind the siding at the joints. Maybe there might be a better high tech product..cause on the south side ( must be a heat thing ) , I did get a little bleed through on a couple of butt joints..I hope nothing my first paint job won't fix.
I tooled in some high quaity caulking in the joints before Staining.
I used solid color stain, cause I like the easier prep when restaining vs repainting..but maybe with FiberCement siding, this is a no factor...I wonder if I should of went with paint, as solid stain does tend to fade.
Heads up to all.
Just got handed a hand out from Hardie today, courtesy of my local LY. No caulk in the joints. They have changed the installation specs.
No caulk anymore, now you need a piece of water proof flashing material. Dated 9/08/2008
Effective Immediately.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
For awatertight joint I understand, but how do you get the joint to disappear if you don't caulk it?
See my reply below. Should have clarified which product that applied to .
Edited 9/25/2008 12:04 pm by dovetail97128
You won't get those joints to "disappear". Not going to happen.
Jim:
Hate to say it but if it weren't necessary to land the but joints on the studs my FC siding guys wouldn't do it on every single "board" they hang. They use siding nailers which shoot a fairly narrow gauge nail so busting the corners off, etc isn't much of an issue. If you are using roofing nails it is.
Edited 10/5/2008 11:14 am ET by Matt
I printed out the installation instructions from the Hardi website and under "Joint treatment" it appears to say that caulking at butt joint is NOT recommended for "Color Plus" siding, but IT IS recommended for the standard lap siding.I was in a lumber yard and their display shows butt joints WITH caulking and that's what they recommend and that's what everyone is apparently doing around her.(formerly Mr. Fix It ;^0)
You are correct. I forgot to add that pertinent piece of information. Sin of Omission. My Apologies. Reading "between the lines" a bit on the Hardie handout I am guessing some caulk manufacturer didn't want to get involved in lawsuits over whose product failed.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
thanks for posting thisIt gets pretty confusingFor example, I am going to "mix in" hardi 12" lap siding (200 ft) on an existing home with masonite siding which has metal joint splicesI am going to omit those splices and caulk the jointI'll see how it looks when I work on it this weekend..(formerly Mr. Fix It ;^0)
Edited 9/25/2008 12:33 pm by Wichita_Realtor
" I forgot to add that pertinent piece of information.Sin of Omission."Understandable, you've been playing a lot in the tavern lately. it can be confusing.;)
Barry E-Remodeler
* laughing here* Well not this for last week, cept for today .
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
:)
Barry E-Remodeler
Let me make sure I got this straight...
The no caulk and water proof flashing at the but joints mfg requirement is only for the pre-painted siding?
I'd do the flashing at least. Would also paint the cut edges.
we were talking about mfg insturctions/requirements though...
That is correct. Here is a scanned copy of the Hardie letter.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Sorry, can't read that. Do you know if it's posted at their site?Thanks,Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Go here: http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/install/install_plank_north.pdf Look at the small detail drawing.
Your supplier will certainly have this information.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I used roofing nails and just nailed 'em where they landed. Hardie installation specs say that if your sheathing is OSB, then that is OK. I blind nailed with the roofing nails, and then came back with a trim nailer and face nailed at the studs whenever possible. No problems thus far in the jungles of E. Tennessee. Its a good idea to keep a hammer handy to tap in the nails that are a little proud. If you set your gun right, you won't have to worry about loose planks.
I say use flashing and caulk. Get polyurethane and plenty of mineral spirits.