Hello everybody I am thinking of installing new windows in My living room and the boss thinks it would be nice if they had a stained wood finish instead of a painted finish. If the windows come with out a finish what would be a good topcoat. The windows would be double glazed so I do not know if I need a finish like spar varnish or is the double glazing enough of a UV filter.
Thanks
Troy
Replies
troys,
I used shellac.. several reasons for that.. first with double panes you usually won't have an issue of frost build up so the one weakness of shellac isn't relavant (prolonged exposure to water). Shellac is extremely easy to apply and even an extremely lousy painter like me can't form runs and drips with it..
Shellac is also safe.. You've been eating it on pills and candy all of your life. plus shellac is harder repeat harder (more scratch resistant) than polyurethanes. plus if you ever want to remove the shellac all you need to do is dampen a rag with denatured alcohol and wipe it off. No messy sanding involved!
If you are going to stain the wood do so before you shellac.. When you clean the windows remember to use one of the amonnia free window cleaners.
Thanks for the reply Frenchy I have seen photos of your house on Finewoodworking's website. I use shellac mixed up from flakes and had not thought about it for this use. I live in the San Francisco Bay area so frost is not going to be to big an issue so this might be just the ticket.Thanks again Troy
Hey Frenchy I forgot to ask how thick or dilute would you use for the shellac. I tend to use it very thin in my furniture projects and use multiple coats. If I finish the windows after they are installed this might be a challenge.thanks
troys
I like thin too for several reasons.. First it's easier to apply and second a really thick coat can alligator on you over time.. I bought a piano once with a really thick coat of shellac and it had alligatored.. while stripping it was fast simple and dust free, if they hadn't put so many coats on it most likely it would still be fine.. I've seen a lot of furniture from the 30's that has never been touched and the shellac is still in great shape..
Thanks, I sure do like the look of shellac on Mahogany so it might be just the ticketTroy
I may be wrong, but I've heard that windows filter out UV--that's why you can't get a suntan through windows. Nonetheless, I have seen varnish flake and crack and peel from exposure to sun on interiors of windows (especially sills--maybe the heat just bakes it). I've used varathane "spar" varnish (Helmsman--in green can) and have liked it, but I like shellac too for interior woodwork. Frenchy's used it in his house, from what I understand, even on floors, and has had very good results.
Make sure the shellac is fresh (cans should have dates on them--older than three years and it may not get hard when you apply it). I dissolve shellac flakes in alcohol, but that's a lot of messing around for most people. What I like about shellac is--non toxic, ease of repair (brush on a little alcohol to repair scratches), dries so fast it doesn't have as much problem with dust getting incorporated into the finish, you can choose color from just about clear (super blond) to amber to redish (garnetlac) to dark (buttonlac or seedlac). That makes it nice when you are matching older shellac that has darkened or was dark to begin with. As frenchy said, water sitting on it can make it "blush," it can be damaged by ammonia or alcohol--spilled drink or perfume will mess it up, but it is easily repaired if that happens. Each coat paretially dissolves the previous coat, so all the coats become one and won't separate.
One finish that most people love that I hate is polyurethane. It doesn't stick well, even to itself and it cracks and blisters. But some people love it and swear by it.
Another thing about shellac--if you use unwaxed, anything will stick to it and many woodworkers use it as a seal coat or varnish over it. It also seals in odors (and stains), so it is often used inside drawers, especially old, musty drawers, or in fire restoration.
Well, probably way more than you wanted to know!!
ProFin by Daly's. Great stuff. Oil modified polyurethane. Easy to use - spray, brush or wipe on, then wipe off. Sand with 320 between coats for a softer than baby's butt finish. I love it, just wish it wasn't solvent based.
Thanks for your reply can you tell me where you purchase this product?Troy
Our local lumber yard gets it for me. Google Daly's, then find Profin from there. Should be able to find a local distributer. I don't know of anywhere locally that stocks it, but we can always get it within a couple days. Lots of local professionals use it.
Thanks I will look it up.Troy
I was going to say shellac also, but they beat me to it.
If you plan on staining it, and if it's pine, you have to apply conditioner first or it will come out all blotchy looking. Pine stains very unevenly.
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Edited 6/11/2008 8:36 pm by Ted W.
I use dewaxed shellac AS a conditioner..sealcoat,is less amber than reg. shellac, but either works.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
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Thanks I think the lady I live with is going to want mahogany and I know that takes shellac really nice. Thanks for the tips on the pine though. Troy