Any tips for finishing a below grade, presumeably dry basement, for a family room?
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Metal studs, drywall, drop ceiling, and carpet are all pretty straight forward and easy. A lot of other issues can come up, but we need to know what you may have experience with and what you want to achieve. be glad to help with anything we can.
Dave
Everything Davericheson points out - that's how I did my basement. But what would I do differently after 2 years: I'd use a tougher material on the 3 - 4ft wall section from the floor - wainscotting. The kids have been tough on the drywall. Love the metal studs - Fine Homebuilding has covered this well. Good Luck.
regards
Edited 3/31/2003 10:08:16 AM ET by dustmonkey
I'm not sure what you mean by tips. Tape a pc of visqueen to the floor and a pc on the wall to check for moisture accumulation. I use steel studs for ease of framing around all the crappola you come upon in a basement. Plastic grommets in the stud knockouts in order to run romex. Hold up the drywall and base away from the concrete floor. Drywall finished soffits around windows, beams and trunk lines. Layout the ceiling so you have an even repeat up in the joists for can locations. Include some heat drops and air return for regulated comfort. Here's a pic of a recent one. Best of luck.
__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
If your putting in an exterior entry door....make the stairwell instead of 3' wide, 5' wide and put dbl glass doors into the basement. Lets tons of light in and looks awesome and the cost differential is minimum.
Just be sure the dry well is sufficent at the bottom of the stairs.
Be open
Namaste
andy
"Understanding yourself is like trying to bite your own teeth"
Alan Watts
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Two code issues that come up in finishing basements are ceiling heights and window areas. Also, make sure there is a good air supply to any utility area.
I ussually use a pressure-treated bottom plate, and the suggestion to keep drywall off the floor is a good one.
Al Mollitor Sharon, MA
Instead of a drop ceiling, you might consider using drywall. It'll look more like a home, rather than an office.
Here is a link to my forum where I posted an image on basement finish details especially fireblocking and stopping, which get overlooked a lot... like the before image above, the firestop at the soffit was missing (unless it couldn't be seen in that photo?) If a fire got started in the basement and the fireblock was overlooked your insurance may not cover you so it's best to take care, or if you're a builder guess who they come after they find that out.
http://altereagle.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=7&forum=8&0 {image}
You can print that out for future reference.
-Gordon-Alter Eagle Construction & Design
The suggestion to use metal studs is the probalby the best one. I am almost done with mine unfortunetly I used wood and have had lots of problems with the twisted and bowed lumber that Lowes sells as prime. Did not know that the Lowes here sold the steel studs until last sunday when i was returning the unusable lumber. Guy in front of me must have bought too many steel studs and was returning one. Found the little bin holding the metal studs and the only ones in strock where about 3 footers. Since the lowes here is smaller than most I have been in I guess the dont have a large stock of it.
Good Luck
Dan
One tiny tip before I head out... on the steel studs in a basement. Cold can transfer through the steel plate to the studs and create a dew point where you will eventually see "ghosts" of the studs in the drywall.
You can use treated plates under the steel plates if you think this may be a problem.
-Gordon-Alter Eagle Construction & Design
Echo that, sir.
I do maintenance in a building that has steel studs. I can see every one, 3 months after painting, and I prime & use 2 coats of Benjamin Moore.
If I ever re-do mu basement with steel, I'm puting in sill barrier.Quality repairs for your home.
Aaron the HandymanVancouver, Canada
I like to use metal track on the top and bottom with wood studs. It is fast and easy and your electrician will be hapy he can use his regular plastic boxes and such.I would also hold the drywall up a half inch or so. Drop ceiling is the way to go also, it allows you to have access at any given point above for any future problems.
Too late, it's done, like 16 years ago.
Good tips, though. Thanks.Quality repairs for your home.
Aaron the HandymanVancouver, Canada
I used to think this way, until it was pointed out that there was plumbing, electric, and HVAC in the ceiling of the 1st floor. Do you happen to have drop ceilings throughout your house?
Hi Chris,
I've got a project going now that we're going to use this product on.
http://www.dricore.com/english/home.htm
I'll let you know how it goes. It's 2' x 2' panels with plastic nibs on the bottom and osb on top. Lay it in, it's t&g, and walla, dry floor and subfloor all in one. I hope.
Also, here's a picture of how we're finishing the walls. 2x4 p t furring shot into the wall, 1" rigid insulation between pt furring, faced with 1 x 8 ship lap pine. I think it'll be nice when finished. Rod
Before finishing a basement, I'd give this a read through - regarding insulation and moisture in basement walls. IMHO some good info on methods for finishing off the space.
http://www.buildingscience.com/resources/foundations/basement_insulation_systems.pdf
KW
Rod-
I recently saw the Dricore panels advertised, but haven't been able to find them here in NJ. What are you paying for the panels per SF?
Bob
Hi Bob,
Cost is $5.00 per 2' x 2' piece, or $1.25 sq/ft.
At Homers.
I hope they work well. I'll let ya know by the end of the week, and I'll send some pics.
Rod
Hey Bob,
Picked up the Dri-core today and didn't start putting it in till about 1:00. Had about 250 sq ft. laid in by 2:30. (2 guys)
And that was a first time installation by us so we were a bit slow, wanting to do it right, maybe even looking for something to fault.
Haven't found it yet. I was pleasantly surprised by the ease of installation and handling of this stuff. It's a lot easier to lug 2 x 2's, rather than 4 x 8 sheets of plywood.
Here's a pic. Rod
Rod-
Very cool. If I had known about the stuff a year ago, I may have used it in my basement, even though it's always beem dry as a bone (quick- gimme a BIG piece of wood to knock on...lol). Even without the water problems, I like the idea of having wood under carpet instead of concrete- it's just a little softer.
Good luck with the job- looks great so far.
Bob
Not sure if anyone but me does this but a good tip if you use metal studs is to slip in a wooden 2x where ever you need to attach moldings such as jambs or plates. Its easy enough and you dont need to nail or screw em in. Just slip em in.
One other tip that I do alot is I just use a metal plate on the floor and ceiling and wood studs inbetween screwed into the metal. that really works great! Goes real fast as well and you have wood as your main memebers.....
Be a stud...be wood..lol
NAmaste
andy
"Understanding yourself is like trying to bite your own teeth"
Alan Watts
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
did that recently in an office remodel as well as in a display both, only problem is all the studs had to be ripped down to fit in between the metal ones...
Oh well
Be ripped
NeilView ImageGo Jayhawks
CAG
I only had to rip the bottom/top back 2" of some studs once because the plates I bought seem to be a hair shy but all the other times they fit in nicely
"Understanding yourself is like trying to bite your own teeth"
Alan Watts
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Since no one mentioned it ; I never assume a basement will stay dry and its a moisture issue in a lot of places. If the basement ever floods for any other reason than natural diaster , the insurance wont cover the loss. Check with you insurance agent. I just redid my basement which holds a game room and a den that is finished . The carpet I had saw two floods after replacing the pad twice . Then came the third time and I yanked it out when lightening struck my pump . I went back with ceramic tile with area rugs in the den . The extraction of water the next time will be easy compared to carpet and pad . I also added a bathroom with a laundry sink to remove the water as mine is not a daylight basement . I drywalled the ceiling , but it should have been suspended ceiling. I needed the height the drywall gave me . I wont enjoy an electrical change or a plumbing leak. Just adding cable outlet will be impossible now.
Tim Mooney
Have had 1 experience using Dricor for basement subflooring. It went very well, and have not heard of any complaints from the owner. I got it at Homless Despot and it went for 5 bucks CDN a 2x2 panel. It also came with a video.
It can be floated, or attached to the bottom plate by "L" brackets. I floated it. What would have taken 2 days to strap and lay plywood took me 2 hours to put the Dricor down. It is T&G, simply cut with a circular saw and leveled with small spacers made specifically for it.
The down fall is that the only option for floor coverings is carpeting or laminate.
Moisture is your #1 issue to worry about for right now, i would begin by sealing the foundation with ugl drylock, and a vapor barrier also seal the floor with an epoxy paint, I would definitley use a green sill plate with steel studs and incorporate lumber into all rough openings. Ridgid insulation is your best bet to prevent mold growth. I like to use 3 inches of durock along the base of the wall and finish with green board. dehumidifyer also helps a great deal with moisture, i drill though the slab an run a short piece of garden hose to drain the water, most dehumidifyers hav a hose fitting on back. the dehumidifyer is usally hidden under a stairwell or built in to the wall. LONG ISLAND N.Y.