i’m finishing a basement and have a couple questions:
1. for the walls that run perpendicular to the floor joists, do i need to put nailers in between the joists on top of the top plate, if i don’t intend to use strapping???
2. for soundproofing purposes, i intend to use a layer of homasote screwed to the floor joists and then type x sheetrock on top of that. is there any issues with having hte recessed lights cans come out 1″ or more from the joists???
thanks. i’m new at this.
Replies
I don't see a problem with nailing your perpendicular walls right to the joists without additional blocking. It sounds like you're screwing your Homosote and rock directly to the joists. This is a bit of a regional thing. Here in New England, strapping is often used. In a basement, ceiling height might be an issue and you can save 3/4" by skipping the furring.
As for the recessed cans, most seem to be designed for about a 1/2" ceiling finish thickness. With 5/8" rock and 1/2" Homosote, they might be too deep. Also, you might want to check to see if it's OK to have the lights in contact with Homosote for fire safety reasons.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
I've done this a hundred times w/ halo or eq. recessed cans- most of the time it is layering 7/16 osb on the ceiling of rooms that are to be coffered. We lay the ceiling up in totally covered osb so we don't have to think about the backing or nailing up of the beamed sections should the owner change their mind...This is done AFTER the cans are in and we cut the osb (1/2" thick) roughly 14" sq. for a 6" can. Your homasote is the same thickness and the cans have an extendable flange on them that will easily float down to cover the-maybe- combustible homasote as well as type X drywall.
God on ya' WOODY
If you have a stick framed house, you shouldn't need blocking for fire protection purposes. The first floor deck keeps the air from circulating thru to the first floor walls. Unlike a ballon frame, which I doubt you have.
You don't need them for structural reasons unless your joists are a long span, you might want to add some in the middle to minimize twisting. without straping you might have a wavey ceiling.
There may be another issue which is moisture, and condensation. Assuming you have a dry basement. By putting blocking, in you might minimize the degree of circulation of damp air from the foundation walls, to the ceiling, which might make you happy someday. If things get moldy, and it starts wafting thru your walls, via the mechanical rough opening holes. But That has nothing to do with, " to strap or not to strap."
I would put a 6 mil vapor barrier on the back side of the wall before I stand it up. Tuck it under and over top and bottom plate. So when the staples rust thru, At the very least it will hang there. I would at least put insulation in above the new walls to keep the super heated winter wood stove air space from mixing with the 50' winter foundation wall air behind that wall. That will keep the mosture on the concrete not the insulation. I would use some 1" or 2" blue board as blocking compression fit and caulked. and if you are really serious poke a few screened, lovered vent holes thru the rim joist to promote circulation.
As far as i know the trim rings on recessed cans are adjustable. I can't say. I believe the hang by springs from the can and layup tight to the finished drywall.
I wonder if there is an issue with the foil on the homesote touching the light fixture?
If you say so.
my question wiht the blocking between the joists was really a question of whether the drywall needs to be screw in, since that is obviously a seam or if it is alright without it?
as for the lighting fixitures, i intend to use IC housings for the cans.
also, would you recommend an air handling system?
I strongly suggest you forget the fixed ceiling you are planning and opt for a suspended ceiling instead. You can get soundproofing panels for it if that is your major concern.
There are two reasons for this. First, obviously, hanging gyprock over your head is a PITN no matter how you slice it; and if you don't have any gyrock up there, you have that many fewer joints to tape and finish.
Second, and more importantly, there are just too many utilities--pipes, wires, satellite/cable runs, possibly HVAC ducts--in the overhead of most basement spaces for a foresighted person to want to seal them inside a 'destroy to open' type of box. If anything ever goes wrong, you'll be a lot happier if you have non-destructive access to that mechanicals space up there.
As for the can lights, BAZZ makes halogen or incandescent cans in several sizes that you can hang directly into a rigid suspended ceiling panel. Holesaw the proper sized opening into a panel, pull the pigtail through it as you insert the panel into the grid, and wire up the can. It slides directly into the hole and is held in place by three little spring clips you drag down to set with a piece of scrap 14ga wire bent into a hook.
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?