Replies

1. 
   sapwood | Dec 29, 2013 12:40pm | #1

   Paint.

1. 
   DoRight | Dec 29, 2013 05:59pm | #2

   Sure, looks like SHT, but

   one can do that.

2. 
   DanH | Dec 29, 2013 06:10pm | #3

   Gee, I was gonna say thinset.

1. 
   DoRight | Dec 30, 2013 12:13pm | #5

   Kind of a ...

   Kind of a staco (spelling) ay?

   Nice.

   I guess people are pretty inexperienced here.  I have seen some beautiful stain jobs on GLulams which cover up most of seams.  I guess I need to fine a web site where trade people post.  Any ideas where I can find one of those?

2. 
   jimblodgett | Dec 29, 2013 08:38pm | #4

   Staining/Sealing

   Are these glulams already installed?  If not, I'd use cut offs as test pieces of a couple three stains.  Once I settled on a stain, I'd stain a couple test pieces the color I want, then try a couple/three finishes.

   The same way we make sample boards for a customer to decide what stain/finish they want on something for them.

   While you're at it, make sure to test a few different wood filler/putty choices too.  It's surprising what color filler blends with what species/stain/finish of wood.  You'd swear it wasn't a match until you see it blend.

   If these glulams ARE already installed and you don't have any cut offs to experiment on, I'd try to find a nondescript spot to experiment on...in a closet maybe, or under the stairs?  Might even have to designate a spot you will intentionally cover up somehow.

   Whatever it takes, I'd find a way to experiment before committing to a stain color.  Been there and regretted not testing.  More than once.  

1. 
   DoRight | Dec 30, 2013 12:17pm | #6

   thanks jimblodgett

   Thanks.  Yes I had the forthought to collect most of my cut off pieces and intend to test stains.  As I do only have a limited number of pieces I was just wonderring about using wood conditioners (is that what they call them?  you know the stuff to guard against blotchy stain uptake).  Also gel stains vs others?  Something to get me looking in the right direction.  Thanks for you expertise.

1. 
   sapwood | Dec 30, 2013 01:12pm | #7

   All those shenanigans that are applied to douglas fir are done to compensate for its dark-to-light/light-to-dark effect when stained. Sure it works to make the wood sort of appear to be something its not... a hardwood. But to me, its an abberation. I prefer paint. But maybe that's also because I have a lot of nice hardwood furniture, cabinets, and flooring. I prefer to feature those in my home and not a gluelam beam. 

   Still, if you want to proceed. (And I have no doubt that you do.) I would suggest you buy or check out from the library a couple of good books on wood finishing. Bob Flexner wrote a good one, Understanding Wood Finishing, that is my go-to reference. There are numerous others. Additionally, my very best advice to you is to experiment on scrap until you get the look you want. Wood finishing is an inexact craft at best. It takes a lot of practice and trial-and-error to get it right. 

2. 
   jimblodgett | Dec 30, 2013 04:18pm | #8

   Prestain conditioner

   I have never used  prestain conditioner on dfir.  But I HAVE used some on hemlock which gets blotchy as heck, and it DID seem to help even out the penetration inconsistancies that I think cause that.

   Gel stains I have never used.

   All that said, I really try to avoid staining anything.  I like penetrating oils and oil based clear coatings to warm up wood and highlight the color variations naturally found in wood.  Stains mute those color variations, to the point I almost think of stain as real thin paint - the more you put on, the more uniform color the wood gets...like paint. 

    I think one issue you might run into staining glulams is all the glues and resins used to bind them together.  And of course, dfir has a lot of resins in it anyway.

   I LOVE glulams.  Always have.  Use them whenever I get the chance.  Was delighted when they started coming straight, instead of with camber.  About 5 years ago my local yard started selling exterior glulams.  What a freakin' delight THAT was.  I don't think they are dfir, though.  I'm pretty sure they are pine...maybe southern yellow pine?  Not sure, but they sure as heck are saturated with what smells a lot like turpintine...which I somehow associate with pine...so maybe I'm just mixing bits up.

   You're very welcome, but please keep in mind, these are just my opinions.  They aren't any more valid than anyone else's. 

   Good luck.

1. 
   DoRight | Dec 30, 2013 07:42pm | #10

   I like Glulams alright as well

   I like Glulams alright, not solid beams but .... 

   Most Engineers will not spec solid timbers but will spec glulams.  So if you are concerned about getting sturctural approval glulams become almost necessary.

   I have seen plenty of glulams with what I guess is jsut a top coat.  They are always orange in color and not my cup of tea.  I saw one web blog with glulams stained in a darker color and they looked much more pleasing and more like a solid timber.

   As for conditioners, I have used it on pine.  I hate staining pine without a conditioner, just looks like crap.  Of course it is not my trade and others may know some tricks which is why I come to boards like these to exchange thoughts with people who love to share their expirtise.  Or you can just go the Don't know no other why and stoco it or paint it.  As for DF, I don't think you typically need a conditiner, but in the case of a laminated beam the variation in sap, vs heart and various grains might make it desirable.  Just asking about that.  Then again as the other poster suggested here, who are you trying to kid -- it is a glulam and not a soldi beam, so imbrace the variation of the glulam.  Hmm?  Not sure I will go there.  Time will tell.

   I too bought a couple of exterior glulams.  They will come in Alaska Yellow Cedar which is, I guess, quite rot resistant.  My rough sawn Glulams for exterior purposes is DF to match the solid timber posts and fir elsewhere but the exterior glulam is WELL under an eave.

   Sure I understand that your opinions are your own as are mine.  And I think people who paint wood do not appreciate what I appreciate which is wood. If you are going to paint something use plastic, PVC, steel, or whatever.  JMHO of course

   Thanks again..

3. 
   DoRight | Dec 30, 2013 07:27pm | #9

   have to make a bogus ..

   post here to get teh damn Adchoise add out of the way in order to respond to a post here.  Sorry.