After going through the manufacterers install instructions, I guess I’m confused as to what fasteners to use. I’ve done an advanced search here and still can’t seem to answer my question. I was originally thinking of searching for stainless trim screws randomly with SS 16 gauge nails but the Azek page says no to brads. I can’t see using framing gun nails and filling all the holes, that would be labor intensive. What is everyone using for fasteners and any other tricks I may need to know. I have alot of linear footage coming Monday and need to pick up fasteners Monday morning. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated in advanced.
Dustin
Replies
Try doing a search using Azek as your key word.
That said, we used 15ga galvi finish nails in the field, and 3 inch galvi screws at all of the butt and scarf joints, to prevent any shinkage and movement.
(I am sure the naysayer's will be along soon.)
This is not actaully recommended by Azek, but the Azek reps came to our jobsite and gave their approval. (They also used our jobsite as a photoshoot for one of their ads, long ago).
Painter's filled the holes with bondo, painted with SW's Dura-whatcha-ma-call-it...pretty!
hope that helps!
Not sure if I will ever get it right, but I will continue to roll that marble around my pea-brain until I figure it out.
"painted with SW's Dura-whatcha-ma-call-it...pretty!"Durations by Sherwin Williams. It take about a month for the paint to fully harden. It will scratch off very easily at first.
"Durations by Sherwin Williams. It take about a month for the paint to fully harden. It will scratch off very easily at first. "
Well, you live in a completely different part of the country from me...therefore, totally different climate. We never watch paint dry or cure here, just blink, nearly done deal.
As far as it's scratching off, who do you have messing with your exterior trim once it is up?
That said, I have visited many of the houses (now 6 years later) that I installed the Azek, with Duration, and they all look good as new, so I guess we were doing someting right in our hot hot sunshine.
"Historic preservation is an essential part of a civil society; historic buildings form the core assets of many communities, and their restoration is key to neighborhood revitalization. Preservation is an essential part of any conservation-minded approach to human settlements. Historic buildings serve as anchors in time, preserving cultural richness and providing essential lessons for contemporary work." Kevin Pierce
Best to paint with Duration on a cooler day. Not great in hot weather!
Jeff
thanks all for the replies. I don't have long lengths (the longest is 9' for the garage door trim) to deal with much expansion and contraction so I got 15 gauge SS nails (very $$$). I don't have a Kreg Jig but should I biscuit my window casings on the ground and assemble as one piece?
thanks
Dustin
I found after I worked w/ the material that it's not anywhere near a uniform thickness. I had to biscuit all of my corners and relieve the backs for the Andersen flanges. The trim came out nice but the material definately needs to be painted because we couldn't even touch it without leaving hand/muckprints that I cleaned off with the RO w/220 paper (we aren't dirty people).
The edge grain is definately an issue and I don't know why they can't give us 4 finished edges. Cleaning , I use SoftScrub with a Dobie pad and or Accetone. Seems to at least get the face clean as new.
I actually have cleanened everything up with the RO with a 220 paper
Stainless trim screws, Azek cement (by the way-I heard that Azek cement was invented by Gorilla Glue and Azek bought them out...true?) and trimbonder for seams and screw holes, it's like Azek in liquid form.I've seen guys finish nail Azek, Fypon, Kleer etc. and went back a year or so later.....pop, pop, pop. It expands way too much in warm weather. My opinion, for what it's worth.For long lengths I now use Windsor1 trim boards, Azek was too floppy and wavy, although they both have their place.
"As far as it's scratching off, who do you have messing with your exterior trim once it is up?"We painted the trim on saw horses to eliminate the amount of staging work. We let it 'cure' for two days then moved it. That's when some scratching of the paint occurred. It was about 55 degrees when we painted, I guess I don't have the paint it on and let bake climate like you:-)
I use 2 1/4" stainless coil nails in my hitachi siding nailer. Sometimes 15 ga stainless on small pieces.
What sunburst said, SS coil nails in a siding nailer. You flush drive them so there is nothing to fill. Don't use galv, whether you hand drive them or gun nail them, the coating gets cracked and it will rust through and show on the paint at some point. Azek is a permanent trim, although more expensive, use the right nail, something that will last as long as the Azek.
Do a search here for more info, and also use their glue, don't use plumbing glue. If you need to fill holes, I like trimbonder but it is pricy.
The KEY question is - Are you gonna PAINT it, if so SS common nails with trim hds are fine and bondo fill will work. NOT gonna paint it, SS 15 gauge finish nails and fill the holes with White Crayola Crayon wipe off excess with micro cloth, holes are invisible. Still can't figure out why anyone paints this stuff if your gonna use white paint. Like putting up vinyl siding and then painting that. I love the stuff for all my exterior needs (trim white).
Dustin,
I did all of the facia on my house last year. I used stainless trim screws, made it very easy in my opinion. I also used the Azec brand cement for all joints. If you have never used it before you are in for an intersting learning experience. The 18' "boards" are a lot more flexible than you would ever imagine. made it a real chore trying to get them up straight without a helper and I even rented a man lift to do the upper areas of the house.
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
The torx head SS trim screws are readily available here, at Lowes. I find the 2.5" to be handy and I also nail with a Paslode..getting the Paslode nails in SS is a hassel, so I conserve and use it to tack up, then screw off.
But largely, it depends on what I am doing with the Azek..frinstance, I recently purchased pre assembled corners at 1.125" thick, and had 3/4" fascia, with the propensity of azek to squiggle around more so than solid wood, I vary my fastening to the situation at hand, keepig in mind the install temperature and future expansion and contraction issues.
I don't think there is a right way to fasten it for every application, some times you'd want it to "hang" like vinyl siding, and othertimes nailed tight.
USE GOOD CAULK, it moves, a lot.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "
Me.