I built this from a design the HO’s and I worked up…but it doesn’t look right to me.
I mostly think the soffit looks funny. It is getting small can lights to light up the book case.
-Maybe after the painter stains and finishes it and books and stuff goes in it will look better?
-Perhaps if the side walls between the counter and soffit were oak too it would work?
I hate it when I put hard work into something…and then it doesn’t come together quite right.
Any advise would be appreciated,
Basswood
Replies
It is unbalanced because of the bulkhead on the right -
suggested remedy, cut back the bulkhead to the profile of the bookcase - or eliminate it -
another remedy would be to make a corrosponding 4" bulkhead on the left wall, but since that would mean basically removing everything and starting over - I don't think so -
you could face the 4" face of the bulkhead with wood, and that would help a little - - or make it appear that the front edge of the bulkhead was a post -
David,Definately, unbalanced...though I think the soffit is more worser than the bulkhead.If I were to do it again...the bulkhead would go (It was a closet, so I already had some demo to do.Thanks for the feedback.
paint the soffit portion white to match the walls/ceiling
then you still have your can light location and the element that is throwing it off will blend into the background
...dittoI think it will make a big difference.
Mike,I think you are right about the soffit throwing things off...looks too heavy and unsupported.It either needs to blend in as you suggest or look like it is supported on the sides.Thanks,Brian
You done good - and it looks great!
Only since you asked...methinks it could (maybe) be improved by a filler panel on the sides, from the base countertop to the wood soffit.
"...an open mind is a powerful thing. The ability to listen to others is invaluable."
Jim Blodgett
Edited 6/18/2007 10:14 pm by Huck
Huck,I'm thinking that filling in the side walls in oak to match is a good idea.Nice to here that you like it, though.Thanks,BW
I think the easiest fix, IMO, is to add a panel on the left and the right to make it look like a single piece. Now it looks like three incompatible pieces.
You could also bring the face frame on the new sides up to the front.
I mutilated your picture with my horrible photoshop abilities, but I think it gets the point accross.
The photoshopped version looks better, thanks for the visual.The court of opinion is leaning towards that solution.I was unsure of myself...did not know what to try next,Thanks,Basswood
I like the photoshopped version better as well. However, I'd make the side pieces thinner than the face frame on the existing shelf so you still have some of the face frame showing. You need to keep a vertical element on the outside ends of the shelves to "terminate" them.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
The soffit and crown overpower the thin rails and stiles of the case. Maybe a little more meat to the top and the four verticals?
Ralph,You bring up a good point about the reason the soffit looks too bulky and poorly supported.Your solution may be more re-work than I am prepared to do though.I appreciate the input,BW
You won't have to rework the case.
Choose a wider casing, either plain or fluted or beaded or custom, with a symetrical profile for the two center verticals, and maybe a different header and apply them directly over the top rail and the four verticals. You'll get recessed shelves that way (looks like they're flush now) and a shadow which may or may not be pleasing.
If the top two shelves are adjustable, move them down. If the top shelf is adjustable, take it out.
The bottom can be changed to match or add doors which will disguise the difference.
My brain just thunk some more...
What about some doors on the bottom?
What kind of return did you put on the top right?
Doors on the bottom have been discussed as a possible add-on to the project already, and I do think doors would make the base look more substantial.The return is like this one (chosen in this case due to the 8' crown stock not being long enough to do a 90* return--one inch too short--w/o splicing):
I think it looks pretty good. Once the can lights are in the overhang and the shelves are full of stuff, it won't look so big.
Bottom of unit needs doors or Drawers.
Nice work, it looks tight.
Gord
Well, I'd bring the door back to even with the ex-closet wall. That reduces the "knife edge" facing out. When the casework is lit, it will be light, making it close visually.
If you don't add light in front of the door, as is, it will "drop back" in shade/shadow--which will make that wall "punch out' at a person.
Bring the door and wall back, then the case work "recedes" into the wall plane, which lighting would then 'even out.'
I think the crown is throwing it off, because of the way it butts into a wall on one side, and does a mitered return on the other.
That's the one element I would change
I would have done away with the crown and carried the right side across the top so the whole thing sat IN and looked a bit more comfortable.
I would have made the lower section at least 36 to 44" high and definitely put doors on it (probably glass framed top and raised panel bottom).......and I would never build a bookcase without allowing for shelf adjustment.
peace.......a great excuse to start a war.
I think the difference in detailing and weight is what bothers the eye.
Here are a few more photo-chopped pics. I think that it's the "fattening" that really helps balancing the piece but the other ones might appeal to some. :-)
I find that for me the best way to compare pictures is to download them and use a picture viewer on the computer.
Hope this is of some assistance,
Cowsine
Original
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Thicker
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Side
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Thicker w sides
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Thicker w discrete mouldings
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Thicker w sides and discrete mouldings
View Image
Nice work! I vote for the third pic, but with doors on the bottom cab."...an open mind is a powerful thing. The ability to listen to others is invaluable."
Jim Blodgett
Cool, now bump that center section out 4" and make the soffit/crown detail follow that bump out. Oh and put doors on the bottom as suggested.
Doug
Nice photo edit. work.Thanks.Perhaps if I started using Sketchup, before I build these things the details of scale and proportion can be worked out ahead of time.I think I will post a scan of the drawing I am working on for an entertainment center, later in the week.
I think the biggest problem is the soffit. It dwarfs the rest of your cabinet.
I would try to eliminate it. If there is a functional reason to have it, then I would paint it to match the ceiling color in an attempt to get it to blend into the surroundings. In a similar vein, the cornice detail on the soffit only draws attention to it; I would eliminate that, too.
The cabinet itself looks rather nice, but is unadorned in its present state. I'd increase the size of the top rail of the face frame as a bare minimum so that it reads more like a head casing. It would also be possible to put some sort of cornice profile between the (upsized) top rail and the ceiling/soffit.
I agree with others here that it might look nice to have doors on the base unit, if you felt inclined to do so.
I disagree with many here in adding a "side panel" that runs straight up a plumb line from the front left corner of your base unit. The base unit should be a bit deeper than the top unit to give a sense of depth and stability. The false side panel serves no function and throws off that visual stability.
But too much depth doesn't look right, either. It almost seems as if the exaggerated depth of the base on the unit you're working on might impede access to the shelves. How good is access in person? (It's sort of too late to change that variable at this point of the game, but I'm curious nonetheless.)
By sheer coincidence, I happen to have completed a somewhat similar job just this month. Here's a picture of the way mine turned out (ready for the paint). The base was a little bit taller than I would have wanted it, but the client wanted to push the volume of the storage area behind the doors.
View Image
Edited 6/26/2007 12:53 am ET by Ragnar17
The soffit is getting mini can lights this thursday.I really do appreciate all the input. In this case, the HO's don't understand what all the fuss is about, they love it as it is.Something about it was really buggin' me, that is what prompted this thread. Even if these folks don't want to change a thing, I'm learning what not to do next time.No bulky soffit.Taller head casing.Bump out center section on top.Doors on bottom.BTW, Nice work integrating your builtin with the style of the house. Looks good.Thanks.
In this case, the HO's don't understand what all the fuss is about, they love it as it is.
In my opinion, it's always a good sign when the contractor is fussier than the homeowners. Meeting your own high standards gives you a sense of satisfaction at the end of the day, and (generally speaking) means that everyone else will be happy with the results if you are.
Bump out center section on top.
If I'm understanding that comment correctly, I might suggest the opposite. In classical arrangements, the center section is usually recessed. Think of the way a nice fireplace surround looks with pilasters at the left and right ends.
Anyway, something else to consider.
Thanks for your compliments, by the way. This particular client can be pretty picky, but so far I've managed to keep her happy. ;)
Keep up the good work!
Taller head casing.One last suggestion: I like to put the head casing at the same elevation as those on the doors and windows in the room. Sometimes there is pressure to maximize the amount of storage space, of course, but I think it looks more integrated to match the elevation of the existing millwork.
I'm with Mike, paint the soffit white and it will disappear.
lose the stub wall.
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"First thing I would do is shoot the carpenter"
You will show the final fix after it's done, right?
it look good if you just do away with the soffit and put the light in the ceiling