OK, we don’t know how to maintain our tools. That’s a given.
We are accumulating air hoses with leaks. What do we need to fix them?
Can’t you just whack the hose on both sides of the leak, and insert some kind of coupling, tying the hose to the coupling sleeves with little hose clamps?
Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY
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Replies
Yup.
Only hiccup is that the couplings and clamps get snagged on everything and will scratch up finished floors if you're using them in that situation.
An afterthought..... most of the time I just cut the hose back to a useable length cuz before you know it, the fittings are worth more than the hose.
I have a couple of Flex-Eels, but I don't use them for framing for this very reason. They're too delicate and expensive for framing. I love 'em for finish though.
I buy good quality 100' 1/4" blue rubber hoses with threaded ends. I think they run about $35 buck. They take a beating. Can even sit a cigarette butt for a few seconds without getting trashed. I've got two that get used daily that are almost three years old... not bad.
FWIW, we run a 3/8"x50' lead hose from the compressor to a three-way. From there we branch out to the 100' runs of 1/4" blue rubber. No problems with volume or pressure... ever. I really think 3/8" hose is overkill unless you're pushing 200' or more. That 3/8" lead feeds three (and occasionally four) framing guns running full bore.
So what are you using, and how the heck are you mucking up the middle of the run?
yeah what kind of hoses you have to fix?
Carpenter / Builder, Rhode Island
We've got the big hose going from the compressor to the 3-way, but are running flexeels (5/16" ID) from there. It is the eels that are getting popped.
Just to quickly get back to having all the hoses (and spares), I think we'll do the coupling fix, but heavily wrap the whole repair in electrical tape, to smooth things up and help the hoses go through openings without getting stuck on the hose clamps.Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY
I'm just curious, cuz I'm still tempted to use flex-eels for framing.... so humor me.
What's making them break? Just normal wear and tear like getting snagged and giving it a good tug? How old are the hoses? I'd love to use them for framing cuz they're so dang light and easy to wrap up, but I'm afraid you're about to confirm my suspicions.
The flexeels aren't mine, they're Jack's. You'll remember he is the one who comes to the party with the big tool kit. Jack swears by them and has been using them for years, and he typically is framing in deep snow and cold. Really deep and really cold.
The laid up hoses are old ones that have been around the block a few times.
I've got two hoses of my own on the job. One is the large diameter feeder to the 3-way, and the other is a new flexeel.
You ought to try one out, one of those skinny blues, see how it works for you. Just get one, for snaking around with you when you are high up in the roof frame, and need the flex.Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY
I've actually got two 50' flex eels in the trailer. I only use them for finish work with the electric compressor. Sometimes the big gas Rol-Air will let some oil into the hoses somehow... not so good for stain-grade so I keep 'em seperate and clean.
But since your buddy uses them for framing in similar conditions... maybe I oughta spring for a 100'er and try it out. I can actually get it for a good price in a 500' spool too, sans fittings of course.
sorry impact resistance...
What's that dude?
the flexeels cut really easy when ya drop something on them...
other wise they're great..
get a splice kit and keep it on hand..
gotcha
Dieselpig,I use the 1/4" "Flexeel" hoses and they're the best hoses I've ever used. I have no problems at all with power or anything using 3 and 4 framing guns. They don't even curl up.The only time I ever get a hole in them is if I'm doing e remodle or add-a-level and something drops on them, but it could happen to any hose. They are so light you don't even know they're hooked up to your gun.You gotta try them brotha.........you'll love them..........and they also come in pretty colors and mine are all blue...........;-)Joe Carola
Edited 7/1/2005 12:28 pm ET by Framer
Sand/abrade the hose, bicycle or tubeless patch, fiberglass tape (or other non-stretch tape) over that. Quick and easy.
Joe, Jon Blakemore, and others...
I called my tool guy today about having him bring me a second set of wall jacks, the 23'ers this time. I told him to throw three 100' Flex-eels in the van too. You guys had me last night. I have a couple of 1/4" ones that I use for finish work, or framing near finished work, and I love them.
I'm thrilled to hear that they stand up to daily framing use. Sweeet. No more big 'ole heavy rubber snakes dragging my coil nailer off the roof on me. :)
Don't know if any of you guys use wall jacks but I've got a set of 20' Proctors. The new set is going to be a pair made by that new company that came out a couple months ago. The name is escaping me. I played with them a bit last time I was at NH Tool Outlet and thought they seemed to be a better product than the Proctors and were actually a bit less coin too. I'll let you all know how they work out.
Are they metal or wood frame?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Metal, like the Proctors I have. But the posts are square rather than round. If you've ever set up a pair of Proctors you know how insanely aggravating it is to try to get the pin in while making sure nothing has gotten twisted in the process. The square tubes knock out that headache.
The ratcheting winch appears to be the same one the Proctors use, but some of the other hardware seems a bit beefier and the welds looked nicer. You can also replace the shoe that gets nailed to the deck without replacing the whole bottom mast like the Proctors require.
It is the Tranzsporter brand of jacks. We used them this past week to jack two 56-foot walls into place.Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY
Yup, that's the name. Thanks Gene. How'd you like them? Such a simple tool with AWESOME power, huh?
I use good old super glue and a wrap or ten of black vinyl tape ( no pressuer in the line).....let her sit for a bit..and throw away the hose.
If ya chunked it bad enough..it will snipe you later.
Buy a new hose and relegate the shorts as whips ( or stubbs) where it cannot bust a barbed fitting and a clamp and launch it it the ciols of the truck's grille..and the fins of the rad.
Not that..I'd know about that. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Viva!!! Chileo" !!!! The man with a golden heart. And a Thumbs up attitude.
You'll also love those hoses in the winter no matter how cold it gets.Joe Carola
Man, you have to at lest give the flex-eels a try for framing. We use the 5/16" for framing additions and the like and we don't have a problem with them. You might spend a little more per year on replacement but I think it is well worth it.I also like your idea of keeping the framing and finish guns separate. We use 1/4" for the trim stuff and make sure that they don't get used outside. Hoses pick up too much debris to use them for framing one day and in a finished house the next.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
The Flexeel couplings my dealer sells me are $5 double ended compression fittings that work like a charm...no cathcing on stuff, no scratching floors.Jason Pharez Construction
Framing & Exterior Remodeling
HEHE my lead man just shot my Flexeel with a framing stapler this AM...he cussed so badly I had to laugh. Seriously though, those little hoses don't make the cut for long term durability framing (but now roofing...)Jason Pharez Construction
Framing & Exterior Remodeling
Seriously though, those little hoses don't make the cut for long term durability framing (but now roofing...)
Why not?
Joe Carola
Edited 7/2/2005 5:38 pm ET by Framer
We just have had a lot of pops from getting dragged by a brick tie, a nail sticking up, etc. With the old rubber hoses, they just grind right on by. I'm not suggesting however that I'm opposed to them, just that I don't know if they'll stand the test of time (and employee abuse).
Like I said though, my guys love 'em for roofing (and for trim jobs too).Jason Pharez Construction
Framing & Exterior Remodeling
For a repair in the field I use a piece of coat hanger. Deflate the hose and wrap the coat hanger coiling it about 3/4 or so inches from the hole to 3/4 or so inches past the hole. Not too tight just enough, and make sure the coils are tight together, wire touching wire. When the hose is recompressed it'll pinch shut the hole. I first saw this years ago in the tips and techniques section of FHB. I've had it work a couple of times indefinately, and other times I couldn't get it to seal. But I've had success at least 90% of the time. It'll get you out of a pinch with a pinch. Ya it's me. Sorry, you touched a nerve.
Edited 6/29/2005 7:48 pm ET by quicksilver
For a repair in the field I use a piece of coat hanger.
What field do you work in that you've got coat hangers handy?
Interesting trick, though.
My fields in the middle of a city. And I've knocked on a few doors askin' for one. Short story. I was about thirty and moved down to Naples Fl to do some framing. Most everything down there is slab and I was used to wooden deck, DC suburbs at that point. I used to smoke. Older carpenter says, "Don't throw your butts on the floor you going to burn a hole in the air hose". I thought, "Ah what's this guy know." A couple of minutes later Psssst. Humbling to say the least. Is it ok to blame this on the concrete? I've never seen it happen on wood.
The 'coathangers' we have are 3" nails into the studs! Try electrical copper wire - readily available, easier to twist, and not so thick. Wrap elec insul tape around that, and it won't get snagged either.cheers
***I'm a contractor - but I'm trying to go straight!***
Gene, we use clampless splices. Just cut the hose at the leak and insert the splice. No clamps necessary.
blue
And you have good luck with those, huh? Everytime I've used them, they blow out in the summer heat. Maybe I got cheapies or something?
I've never had one blow out till this year. I just stuck it back in. If it comes loose again, I'll add glue.
blue
they work really well
Gene,
Go to Home Depot and get the Repair kit for $3.00. IUn fdact get yourself a few of them and keep them in the tool box. Just wrap some electrical tape around the clamps and your all set. I've been using them for years. Sometimes you get a hole in the middle of the hose so it's worth the repair.
Sometime the hole is a foot down so I just cut it off and hook it back up to the fitting.
homedepot
I would love to, but my nearest Depot is 72 miles away, with a 1/2 hour ferry ride along the way. Even a Lowe's is a hard hour.
I envy you guys with easy access to tools and supplies.Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY
must be nice to lve so close to supplies...
If you can, buy Senco hoses....they come in small diameter (like for brad nailers), bigger (like for framers)....
the factory ends are a push on barb fitting....I've never had one come loose, and as a plus the hoses are vey high quality...don't kink & flex well in cold weather...(& Senco sells a double ended barb for repairs IIRC...
Also, I have some fittings (wish I knew the maker, but any good hydraulic supply house probably has them) that are barbed with a ferrule that slides over the hose before you push in the barbed end, & then the ferrule screws onto the fitting...no hose clamps to snag
If you really want to go crazy, there are some German quick connect fittings that unlock with a recessed push button....vey slick, but very pricey.....
A quick fix I found that has worked for several months was to cut a small piece from an old inner tube, put that over the hole in the hose and then put a small automobile water hose clamp around the patch and screw it down as tight as I could. Then I clipped the end off the water hose band and wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape to keep it from snagging too much. Not very elegant but it worked and as long as it is holding and not causing problems I'll live with it.
Russ
Bostitch just came out with a new yellow hose like the flex eel and works very well. Don't know if they are our by you but the ends seem easy to fix with normal fittings. I repair my hoses with refridgeration style fittings. I came upon them by accident in a little hardware store.