I have a t&m job to do fixing sheetrock walls that were cover with wallpaper that won’t come off. The customer has already tried to remove it and the walls are a mess. Replacing with new drywall is out of the question so I’m thinking to:
Prime walls first with an BIN to seal the loose drywall paper then skim coat everything. Any other tips or suggestions would be very helpful as I’m real busy and don’t have a lot of experimentation time. Will I ever learn to say no to friends and relatives?
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Replies
There is a very simple solution to your problem if the paper on the sheetrock was not damaged while trying to remove the wallpaper. If you skim coat the wall with sheetrock compound and allow to sit for 5 to 10 minutes the wall paper will peal off very easily, along with the wet compound by using a putty knife. If the paper on the sheetrock has been damaged then I would resheetrock the room.
Thanks but the cust. already removed paper and damaged drywall. Need all the help I can get, this is an 2nd floor hall and 1st floor foyer including the stairs. Re-rocking is the last choice.
Please help.....
What a mess... gotta be an easier way to make a living.
____________________________________________________________If you were arrested for being a quality builder would there be enough evidence to convict you?
"Thanks but the cust. already removed paper and damaged drywall. Need all the help I can get, this is an 2nd floor hall and 1st floor foyer including the stairs. Re-rocking is the last choice.
Please help....."
Ok, the job has progressed to the HO tearing the paper off and in the process has ripped large amounts of dw paper from the wall. Its quite a mess. Am I doing ok up till now ?
What must be done now is lightly cut the paper hanging from the wall with a razor knife as best you can with out cutting through the drywall. You really need a finisherpainter at this point at this point and a good one . This is a job that separates a dobber and a finisher. But you asked ;
Prime the wall two coats with enamel under coater [oil] and let dry 24 hrs between coats. The reason behind undercoater is that it can be sanded thus taking the rest of the loose paper off the wall with out gumming the sand paper. A lot of quick primers tend to be soft . You may choose to coat the wall again with the under coater if the wall looses prime because of the loose paper. This is as hard a job as a finisher will find as now the whole wall must be coated . Mark the wall of in 12" then 10" intervals vertically. Coat the 12" spaces with a 12" inch knife leaving a vertical zebra. Wait for that to dry and coat the missed 10" portion with a 12" inch knife while also killing edges . If you are good , you will be ready to sand the whole wall. If not you will need to "butter it up". Sand the whole wall smooth unless when coating has been finished as smooth as you can do it. Of course holes or scrapes will allow for more attention. As insurance it should be top coated with an oil flat . But I have been able to coat latex on top by dry rolling . Note that you don't have enough primer on if you're getting bubbles of paper under the mud . Those spots are cut out and the process started over on those spots.
I'm going to half agree with Andy because while you and the HO did this work you could have had it rocked and finished if the surrounding trim would have allowed it. I can certainly see Andy`s point as this job you are on is an expensive one for what you will be accomplishing.
Either way , you have filled your plate. This job on a scale of 1 to 10 , is a 10 on difficulty to repair it. The job is mostly reserved for old pros. That's why this post has opposition in repairing the walls.
Tim Mooney
Thanks all for the replies. I'll try to post monday on my progress. I'm going to still try the BIN, as it's an achohol base primer hoping it'll bond the loose paper rather then wetting it to further loosen. If that doesn't work I'll know PDQ then try the papering method.
Re rocking is the last resort as this area contains a 2 story foyer with 2 windows, 12 doors, 2 custom arched opening,countless switches, outlets, and a stairway with handrails dying into walls.
Wish me luck..... I need it.
_____________________________________________________________________If you were arrested for being a quality builder would there be enough evidence to convict you?
I don't think the BIN will do your job, BUT I have often dealt with face paper that had been torn, by taping all of the torn areas with glass tape and then skimming that with durabond. I have never had this system fail for me. I hope that you see this in time to try it.
" I don't think the BIN will do your job, BUT I have often dealt with face paper that had been torn, by taping all of the torn areas with glass tape and then skimming that with durabond. "
I dont think BIn will work either . Where Im wondering what you mean is this ; I envision most of the wall torn . So are you going to tape the whole wall? Another thing Im wondering is why you would use Durabond for any other reason of completeing the job in a reasonable time frame? There is no structural cracks so why glass tape? Are you wanting the glass tape to keep the bubbles down with out primer as you dont mention using primer ?
Tim Mooney
I rather doubt that the torn areas are really large. I am envisioning torn areas (maybe many) mostly coverable with two to four strips of glass tape. The glass tape replaces the structural properties of the original paper coating. The durabond (I use the old hard stuff ... not easy-sand) combines with the glass tape to create a new structurally reliable surface that will adhere to the torn and flaky residue of the original paper without bubbling or blistering and will take paint or wallpaper or other treatments without problems. It is neccessary (and, I hope, obviously) to remove any large sheets of paper film that are just flapping loose. Small flakes and fuzz may be successfully ignored as the durabond/glass tape coating is reasonably rigid and will bridge them without any trouble. An occaisional small patch of gypsum that has the paper entirely removed can also be covered this way. If there are extensive areas that are in this condition I'd reccommend recovering, at least those areas, with new rock.
My experience with it is that the whole room was prepared the same and acts the same unless time was spent using a tiger . You are going to get the same results on every sheet unless care was taken in a specific area. There for it would be extensive. I havent tried just hot mud though and flex tape for most of the time for me its more serious than that. I guess you have had some good luck, because I normally have to finish the all of the walls . That would be a difference .
Tim Mooney
Tim
Check out the Gardz for Drywall Damage. (or something close to that name) It really soks in and bonds the loose paper, the bubbles won't appear.
I think SW has a preprite now that does the same thing. Drawtite is the original, but I can't seem to find their website right now. They used to send a free qt to try.
Timesaver
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Barry E
The main problem I see is water proofing the wall. If it does that and lets it be sanded then its the answer. Sanding knocks the loose stuff off the wall and smooths it to boot. Theres normally a lot of paper that needs top be knocked off.
Be smooth
Tim Mooney.
Sounds good. I'd spot prime the damaged dw with Zinsser's Gardz for Drywall Damage or Drawtite instead of the Bin and skim with durobond
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I'm no plasterer but I have seen, if I understand what your up against, some pretty rough walls become miraculously transformed by a thin applications, I believe the term is veneer, coat of plaster. The entire wall was skimmed to a depth of about an eighth of an inch.
The plasterer, a master of his craft, was able to do the wall in a few hours and left an absolutely flat and smooth surface ready to receive paint or paper.
I was working on an electrical panel in a room nearby and was amazed at the transformation. The key to a good job seems to be to have a skilled and experienced plasterer on the job. This particular plaster mechanic has been a major resource for the contractor I was working for. He once repaired a ceiling where a helper fell through from the attic, a lucky thing he landed on a bed, so seamlessly that once painted the HO thought the damage had been done to another room.
He has patiently and graciously corrected our amateurish plaster patches, corrected our mistakes and generally went out of his way to make us look good. Well worth the money spent.
You may want to try the link below. I was doing an office remodel a few years ago and used wall liner on walls that had been previously wallpapered (without any sizing!). The wall liner installs like wallpaper, and is then painted. It is basically like installing a new paper layer (similar to the paper layer on drywall). I was amazed with the results. The seams disappeared. It does come in a variety of thicknesses depending on the condition of the walls.
BTW, I purchased it at a local paint store.
http://www.thewarnerco.com/global/html/liner.htm
Have you considered skinning the walls with 1/4 in, You would need jam-extensions in any wall that has door or windows, but on walls with no door or windows, its going to save time and money.
Just wondering if the dw is so screwed up why it cant be replaced? I'm guessing to save on the M part of the T&M, but its probably the best solution.
CAG beat me to it but 1/4" rock is definatly the very best way to go other than a rip out, and my guess is you wont have to add any extentions to the trim work.
That IS the best solution in MHO. I've been there and I HAVE done that many times.
Get ready to rumb.....I mean rockkkkkkkkk
BE a wall
Namaste
andy,,,,PS CAG I hate you...lol
"Understanding yourself is like trying to bite your own teeth"
Alan Watts
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I cant remember who has it in the tag line,
But Knowlege is power only if applied in a timely fashion :)
I'm surprised you usually dont have to add extensions, the times I have had to do this always needed extensions, not so bad if its paint, matching stain can be a b!tch though.View ImageGo Jayhawks
Jeez guys, you want to take a simple job and stretch it out. Maybe he should gut the place and start over. <g> I doubt he's talking about holes in the walls, it's some torn face paper most likely. seal it and skim it. Repaint and get on to the next one. It's done all the time.
If ya can't do it, get a finisher who can.
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Barry E
Barry
During those years where forclosures were beyond words I did "mucho" work for all the real estate agencies around me.
A REAL lot of the work was ripping roomfulls.....and I mean huge houses with every room wallpapered off.
I'm real versed in wallpaper removal.
Some rooms (mainly bathrooms) have the paper on so tight due to no primer or whatever that no matter what tool you use you will be gauging the walls to kingdom come so in so many cases if you know what your in for you bite the bullet and use 1/4" rock as I've done "dozens" of times over.
Maybe you never encountered a room like that but its soooooo not worth the hassle of removal.....if you recognize what youre in for.
Way easier to rock and spackle in these instances.
My guess is you havent delt with rooms of paper like that. And dont talk to me about the paper tiger ripper. It doesnt work! No primer.....good glue.... and no removal.
Be primed
Namaste
andy
"Understanding yourself is like trying to bite your own teeth"
Alan Watts
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Very good point, the paper tiger SUCKS!!! I've never had it help me tear down paper, and all you end up with is a bunch of little holes that need to be filled in the drywall.View ImageGo Jayhawks
-My guess is you havent delt with rooms of paper like that.-
Andy
Yep, ya got me. Never dealt with stuff like that. Thanks for helping me see the error of my ways. Now that I know there's only one way to skin a paper tiger, I'll never ever do it my way again.
Papering on unprimed walls? that's unheard of.
Thank you, thank you
Not saying that there might not be a time to try your way, and I haven't seen this particular job, but I'd sure look at a few other ways first.
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Barry E
YeaH, I'd rip the old rock off and do it all over or apply 1/4" over it. Too many finishing problems like bubbling all over.
i've done it many times,sand it, bin it , and skim it 'till your satisfied with the finish.
Welcome to Breaktime.
Tim Mooney
hey tim, thanks for the welcome.