I replaced the handle and flapper valve on an Eljier one piece toilet, and I can’t get the adjustment right for the flapper. The problem is that the flapper overlaps the lever from the handle, and gets stuck most times when it is flushed. It seems like the flapper should not come up so high that it hits the lever, but if it doesn’t open enough, the flush is incomplete. Is there a way of knowing how high the flapper should lift? Is it supposed to come all the way up (vertical, basically)? These should be the manufacturers recommended pieces, BTW, not generic aftermarket pieces.
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Does it have a chain so you can adjust the position of the lever when it lifts the flapper fully?
I can select the amount of chain, is that what you mean? The problem is that if the flapper opens fully, it catches on the lever because the lever is angled down in order to have enough travel I guess. Anyway that is basically my question - how far up is a flapper SUPPOSED to go. I would assume all the way, but I'm not positive.
Can ya trim it with tin snips and still have it seal?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Yup, I really bought this place, wanna shoot me? Please?
The flapper only has to open a small amount, 1/2" above the bottom. The water runs out until the flapper closes again.Then the tank refills after the flapper closes.The flapper can open any amount as long as it is open and does not interfere with the handle.
mike
You are correct. But, I still like to see a larger opening. More water can pass thru faster. With these low GPM flushers , ya need all the help ya can get.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Yup, I really bought this place, wanna shoot me? Please?
It depends on the type of flapper. Some need only open a little, and the force of the water will open them the rest of the way. Others need to be pulled most of the way open.
Flappers can be cussedly stubborn about opening and closing right -- it's a bit of an art to adjust them.
Yeah, that was my thought too. So my question is, "What am I adjusting it to do? Open all the way? Open, say 1/2" and stay for 12.37 seconds? What?"Now I know that the answer is, adjust it to work correctly. But what am I shooting for?
Bryan,
As was mentioned, flappers can be cussedly hard to tweak. You mentioned also replacing the handle. I'd say that you're gonna have to just play around until you get the relationship of the handle lever, the chain and the flapper right. In my experience, you want enough slack in the chain that the handle lever can nearly fully open the flapper without yanking it hard at the end and pulling it out of alignment, but not so much slack that it interferes with the flapper. Just gotta try tweaking it here and there until you hit the magic flush sweet spot. Surprisingly frustrating...good luck!
One thing to watch out for when you replace the handle: The arm on the new handle may be longer or shorter than on the old one (even if it's an "exact replacement"). Generally the unit is designed for a particular length arm and won't function as well with a different length, at least not without some fudging with the chain.In terms of basic adjustment, first try to set it so that there is a **little** slack in the chain when the handle is fully depressed (keeping in mind that the arm may strike the lid, so you might have to test with the lid on, somehow). You don't want so much slack that the flapper will go "over center", usually, but for certain flapper designs (those with a small "tank" on the flapper) this is exactly what you DO want.Some flappers depend on air inside the flapper body to "float" the flapper open while the tank drains, and if lifted too high will suffer from the air being dumped out. For some of these you may need a fair amount of slack.So, you see, there is no general rule here.
Look at the bell on the bottom of the flapper. Is there a hole in it? These type fill with air when closed and the hole allows the air out when open. When enough air flows out, the flush is over. It doesn't matter how high the thing is opened by the lever, as long as it's high enough for the initial air charge to float it all the way up.
The way to set these is to have the lever open it just enough for the captured air charge float the flapper the rest of the way up. slowly open the flapper by hand until it 'pops' the rest of the way up. note where it was when it popped. Lift the lever all the way and hook the chain so the flapper is at or just above the point where it popped up by itself.
Set the lever so it doesn't fall too low. Usually by adjusting the handle position. Not always. Some times you just gotta bend the lever and let the lid be the lever stop.
If it's closing too soon, try cleaning the flapper well with acetone (Oateys PVC cleaner) and spreading a little liquid tape around to reduce the hole size by the thickness of the liquid tape.
Assuming yer flapper has an AH.
Air hole, ya perv.
SamT
I think you're on to something about the lever. I think fundamentally, that is where the problem is. The flapper gets caught on the lever when the flapper is all the way open and the handle is released. The lever drops down, and then the flapper cannot close because it is now resting on the lever.Of course, that is why I replaced the old handle, but the new one seems to be exactly the same. Something smells here, besides the sewer.
It may be that the flapper is not the original type, or this may just be a poor design.