What would be the best way to prevent leaks for this particular instance? Thanks in Advance.
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I'm biased from seeing that kind of thing cause more and more issues in a house . . . I suspect if wherever you live all you have to deal with is rain, a good custom bent metal flashing, with step flashing pointed into the brick, you might survive. If you live here and get snow and ice buildup, its almost impossible even with that to keep the water out. You can seal all the joints with urethane or roof tar or . . . I've seen that kind of thing leak 2 weeks after closing.
Its not an easy answer. It seems like it should be, but water does some odd stuff. I saw a house where the garage roof died into the house wall like that at the front, just a couple feet worth; that poor builder redid the roof and flashing 6 times in the first year before they got it to quit leaking. They ended up ordering an epdm type membrane that went several feet out onto the roof and up the sidewall of the house under the siding. But I don't see that happening on brick.
"A bore is a man who, when you ask him how he is, tells you." -Bert Taylor
The house is located in Chicago so plenty of the nasty weather! One of the guys onsite recommended the use of ice and water shield with copper pan and saddle.
heck you're worse off that we are. I'd agree with that. And find the designer of the house and give him a swift kick. He's just setting people up for problems in snow country."A bore is a man who, when you ask him how he is, tells you." -Bert Taylor
Framer will get a swift kick for this and also framing the rough for all our 8ft doors literally 96"!! Wouldn't you think you would need a jamb?
How are they going to flash those joists for the balcony?
heck you're worse off that we are. I'd agree with that. And find the designer of the house and give him a swift kick"
RW,
I thought the same thing when I saw it, then saw it was in IL. Was the builder from out of state? 'cause that house doesn't fit the environment.
WSJ
Well, I can't tell you what the BEST way is...
But I -can- tell you that flashing it with pics ain't gonna get you a very good result.
;o)
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. ~~ Eric Hoffer
Glossies would work. ;)http://www.costofwar.com/
As a roofer/flasher the best way for me to prevent leaks on this mess from becoming my resposibility, is to keep driving. There's not enough room to work on the right side. You need ice and water shield and copper pans and flashing, but most of all you need somebody extremely competent to do it. Good luck.
Birth, school, work, death.....................
http://grantlogan.net/
Thats not an easy fix to keep from leaking,but as seeyou said you will need a skilled metal man to do it.
I'd make a cricket-pan that is pitched to the front and also from the brick wall side and extending out past the brick by a few inches.
Once it's all fabricated and fits "dry' then pull it out and completely solder all locked or rivetted seams you have made-both front and back.
Install the piece,then trim out the eaves above and shingle the balance of that little area.Your metal should sit on top of the prior shingled strip along the brick-which looks like it needs step and counterflashing installed
sorry technoz1,
but that is---or should be a criminaly bad design
the resposible party should be beat to death with a baseball bat before he/she inflicts those design skills on the world again.
Best place to prevemt those MULTIPLE leaks---would have been on the drawing board.
Personally--- I agree with Grant------- I would not allow this nightmare to become MY problem----especially since it was entirely avoidable in the first place. I love these nasty little situations----they are my bread and butter------but this one just makes me laugh------ each valley has multiple sources of leaks-------- plus the framing for that balcony----plus the wall below------
RE those valleys-------- I have done quite a few similar situations in seamless rubber----which I would like in this case as It could be extended all the way up the valley------------- but in those cases I at least had room to work
In this case----the right hand valley especially------ no room to work.
Stephen
because of the title of your post, i kept focusing on the valleys, so it took me a while before i saw the PT joists poking through the bricks beneath the french door. that french door sill and the joists will probably be harder to flash and ultimately cause more problems than than your two valleys.
the valleys should be done with EPDM, most likely rubber membrane. that would be the easiest product to work with in these two confined areas. the rubber will probably have to remain exposed (no nailing shingles into it to cover it up) to work properly. copper would work and look better, but it would be pricey. but then, so will the rubber done properly.
make sure you leave the new owner a bunch of leftover bricks. someday when they finally get sick of the stained ceiling and leaking window directly below the second floor french door which they will never use even once, they can rip out the joists and replace the door with a window and have enough matching bricks to fill in the holes.
carpenter in transition
Blue tarps.
Probably last as long as anything else & less mess to change.
Joe H
On the right side, I would try to build a false front, set back from the brick a little bit, to kill that space, and then bring bring the fascia straight down to the roof so you've got something to work with. The left side, I don't know. Find out who got in there to do the brickwork and hire him. The more I look at it, the more I think I'd keep going.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
LMAO
I've always heard the truest words ever spoken usually come from kids about age 5. You get credit at least for young at heart, if not in body."A bore is a man who, when you ask him how he is, tells you." -Bert Taylor
Ask the architect how to do it. He/she is the one that dealt that mess.
But my guess is there is no architect involved. Looks like a cookie cutter plan from a book.
Whoever gave us all this multi-gable crap for streetfront elevations should be shot on sight. Adds greatly to cost, and creates awful unsolveable problems like yours.
A lot of sheet metal artistry might make it OK, but consider the cost in accessing those tight crack places. Yuk.
A lot of sheet metal artistry might make it OK, but consider the cost in accessing those tight crack places. Yuk.
He needs a shrunken coppersmith to get in there! No way Duanne's gonna fit in that tight spot!![email protected]
It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been
No way Duane would TRY..LOL.
We did a similar fix last spring, DAle and BOTH were jammed in the bastid...not a joyful time.
Time for a framer to add a serious cricket or new plane somewhere.
I thought maybe the roof on the right could valley into the one on the left.
Maybe hard to tell from the pics.[email protected]
It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been
Greetings t,
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=24441.1
is an old thread here on Breaktime that includes a lot of data on posting pics and the Irfanview download.
Dialup patrons of the forum cannot download real large files or will take excessive time.
Two things are necessary to assist the dialups with your photos. Making sure that the set file association is set to jpgs if you are using the Irfanview system.
'Nemo me impune lacesset'
No one will provoke me with impunity
tech... how come the elevation plan is different from the as-built photo?
View Image
View Image
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 1/2/2006 1:43 pm ET by MikeSmith
Yeah, I wondered the same thing. The plans are bad, but not as.Birth, school, work, death.....................
http://grantlogan.net/
Mike, I've been laughing along in the background here. A week ago, the OP posted this house wondering about the way the masons were powerwashing it.I alerted him that the3 dead valleys were a much greater problem and neded to be resolved.It looks to me like the plans suggest running the rafters from the upper large hip roof all the qway forward along the side ( left at least) of that central dormer tower. If I were contacted to roof this monstrosity, I would demand that the dead valleys be eliminated in just that manner. Even that solution would need backup of I&W with such tight valleys crowded together. I learned a long time ago to never even try to flash or roof a dead valley situation, because the liability would then be mine. I only deal with them by eliminating them.This one would probably be just as pricy to flash as to reframe the roof line right in there.The scary thing is thaqt this is probably a pan book design and the error will be repeated a dozen or more times, some of them solving it only with a couple tubes of caulk and driving at least one HO insane about the leaks etc...
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paul.... i was wondering about a couple of things.. the main one being ... where is the step-flashing on the brickwork ?
View ImageMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I did one about 4 years ago where 12 sq. of 10/12 roof came down through a 4" trough between a second floor wall and a dormer. I Graced the hell out of that thing and the snow still hung up. I told the builder in July when I did it, and had him sign off on this area that I can't and won't warranty it against leaks. Guess what... I get a call just before Thanksgiving from the HO.
can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear
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I asked him about that in the other thread. he said they were waiting until the brick had been washed so th eacid wouldn't streak the copper....???This is in Chicago, so that step falshing will be streaked in no time anyway. I guess the bricklayers out there don't set step flashing. The tin-knocker must cut it in later - another reason to avoid any flashing at all in this area. The snow will be drifted six feet deep right in there, and some winters a small ice glacier - enough to tear off the inserted steps.I had him considering removing those joists and rebuilding the brickwork in that area for a bolt hung decorative wrought rail as shown in the plans.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
IF, by bad luck,I got stuck making a flashing for that mess, I'd add the COUNter flashing last...the steps are there already.
Reason being, I/we cut the mortar with a 4'' diamond wheel, and set the reglets or counters with copper roll slugs, followed by geocel.
Do all that last so you aren't crawling in all the grinding dust all day.
as a point of reference. the dead valley on the right has the same clearance as the one on the left. the right side appears restricted because the bump out on the right extends several feet further than the entry roof. access to the right will be the same as the left. the angle of the camera coupled with the longer soffit makes the dead valley look inaccessible.
as a point of reference. the dead valley on the right has the same clearance as the one on the left.
I'm not convinced - the elevation drawing would indicate that case, but the as built bears only a passing resemblence to the elevation -
take a straightedge on the second pict and you will find the right roof is interesects two bricks higher than the entry - the elevation drawing says the right should wrap further into the middle with the eve quite a bit lower than the entry -
"there's enough for everyone"
mcf,
even if your observation is correct
the right hand valley is still MUCH more restricted than the left
the left side could potentially be worked from one or two ladders set up in front and reaching straight back in
but----on the right side only one ladder could be used----set 90degrees sideways------and that abortion would have to be worked pretty much with just your left hand.
Personally------ I hope this thread never dies------ 'cause every morning I am gonna check in here and feel SSSSOOOOOOOOOO GGGOOOOOOOOOOd that this isn't my problem.
no matter how bad my day goes---- I will be able to look at this one and smile.
Best wishes,
Stephen
LOL, not a sympathetic bone in your body, is there?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
cmon Piffen!
I know you share my joy in this--------
the chance to look at that situation---and think---" not my problem" LOL
60-80 years from now------- it will be the problem of somebody just like me-----so if anybody---THAT's Who I have sympathy for
As for the current situation------- It falls more into the self inflicted category, I think
Best wishes---Stephen
Self - in flicted...He is a willing accomplace.others indicted in this crime were the architect and the framer, and the roofer.The archi shopulda, coulda been clear about how to frame this. I think perhaps he hints in the elevation drawing to carry the upper 4rafters all the way forward but why he doesn't onm both sides is bayond my ken.And why the framer failed to think this thru is apparant from the empty vodka bottles on site. I can imagine him laughing at the GC for buying these pans instead of working to identify and correct the situation.The roofer is especially complicit in the crime. He came on the scene just as the patient was breathing his last, but rather than offering a ride to the hospital, he sold the guy a burial suit. How me managed to lay any shingles into that area is a puzzle. WE'd really be laughing if we could see photos from an upper vantage point.The owner/GC is merely an ignorant enabler - a blond bombshell heiress all star struck by the archy, framer, and roofer all chasing her down the street, heaping flowers in her lap making prises of enduring fidelity...we got a movie line here, no?There is a lot more to this whole saga I'm sure, but it was definitely self inflicted in part. The time to get good advice is before the work, not after the cave-in, but most owner/builder DIYs think more of the money they are saving than the errors that can compound along the way when they fail to recognize how little they know, thereby encouraging and enabling poor workmanship by subcontractors.at this point I half feel sorry for him/her and half feel your evil glee...which way it will go from here would depend on what the OP does with the problem - bite the bullet and tear up enough to do it right, or get a case of caulk and make yearly offerings to the rain Gods
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Here is a Pic. from the right valley..BTW I bought a roll of the Grace I&W..
I'd get someone like Seeyou suggested-an excellent metal man to fabricate and install a custom cricket-pan.
After all the chest pounding and ranting-that picture shows me that keeping that area leakproof is entirely possible.I would use lead coated copper for that area for better aesthetics with the roof color .It's being dull looking wouldn't call as much attention to it's quizzical placement as would bright copper.
Don't just expect Grace and shingles to keep it out though.
Found a metal man but he won't use the lead coated saying something about being hazardous to your health & soil. Is that really true?
There is another product by Revere copper called Freedom Gray which is like a terne coating to the copper-look on Reveres sitr to see it.
Good luck and don't be discouraged by all the negativity.
As for the harmful effects of that much lead coated copper to health and soil,it's about negligible in this small a quantity.
I'm following slateman around today. On the LCC situation: lead coated copper is quite a bit more expensive than plain copper and has little salvage value for the leftover scrap. Your job will probably take 2/3 of a sheet, so the guy's gonna be left with 1/3 of a sheet he may not need for a long time. If I were using LCC I'd charge you for the full sheet, but if it was shiney copper, I'd just charge for what I used. I'll use the rest somewhere else tomorrow. Slateman's right about the health hazard. As long as he's not licking it, he'll be fine and there shouldn't be any hazard to you unless you've got a roof fed cistern.Birth, school, work, death.....................
http://grantlogan.net/
Damm, we could knock that out in a half day. How far is Chi-town again?
check yer email.
I've walked away from lesser messes in spitting distance. I don't have to drive to Chicago to open a can of worms. I'm with Haz on this one.
check your email.Birth, school, work, death.....................
http://grantlogan.net/
a metal man that won't use lead coated copper ?
that's the first time i've heard that one.
what is the guy going to use to solder his material ?
carpenter in transition
You guys who think this can be done - sure it can, until the first ice damn glacierSee that wood sidewall barely peaking from behind the brick veneer? Where you gonna terminate? I know - run the copper all the way up the wall to join the soffit, but how terminate at the wood/brick? Only solutiopn t6here is to wrap it around to the front. I had pictuerd this with brick on that wall, calling for stepped counterflashing which the ice would tear out. Now I woonder jhow long until the water rises weeping up over the copper pan at the soffit joint. The one thing I gaurantee is that this will have itself plumb full of ice. So running the I&W under the copper means that to get it high enough under the shingles, some of them need to come off. This whole thing needs to be treated like a bathtub. The multiple joints in the fascia/soffit will be leaking and that will look like it was your fault. It looks like the roofer didn't even use any eave edge. The ice will destroy those shingles in that location in a few years.Personally, I'd still reframe or walk away. I'd never choose this battle.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I agree with you about the lower shingle courses-I'd strip them back 3' in that whole area and under the overhang-and use standing seam panels for above and full metal below.
You guys are making this out to be more difficult than it is.
Of course it's going to get full of ice and snow-but have you never seen a galvanized pail thats full of ice and snow.As long as it can expand upwards it won't rupture the metalwork if done by someone with enough skill and caring to accept the challenge.
It's a little late to start reframing-that should have been discovered sooner.Now it's time to make it work.
You guys are making this out to be more difficult than it is.
Probably. But the minute you or I touch it, it becomes our problem. I've been talked into taking on this type of problem more than I can count. Usually, I get it the first time. When I don't, I have to come back for free to fix it. I think the point everyone's trying to make is good craftsmanship can't always overcome bad design. If I was hungry or the owner was willing to not hold me liable if it didn't work, I'd do it. Otherwise, I'd walk away.
I recently had a minor altercation with an architect. He wanted me to do something his way, which might have worked, but was a re-invention of the wheel. I had an alternate solution to the problem that I was comfortable with. He demanded that I do it his way. I said "Fine. You warrant it. I do it my way, I warrant it". We did it my way.
It's a lot cheaper at this point to reframe something than to try to rectify it a year from now after all the finishes are done. Birth, school, work, death.....................
http://grantlogan.net/
I agree it's not an area that one would prefer to work on-but sometimes a challenge is good.I'm sure you've done many and so have I.
I've also had to go back if something was missed or failed-but it becomes more rare as the experience level grows.
I thought it looked like too late for re-framing,the finished roof is on above.
I never said I thought the design was great,just that at this moment in time it could be made to work with much skill and proper material.
I know if you and Sphere decided to tackle it-you would no doubt be successful,as would I.
But with that roof overhang, it cannot expand upward, and an ice damn is not static, exerting a constant pressure. It changes hourly with melts, added snow or rain, wind, temperature changes, etc. The power of moving 'living' icve is awsome!
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Piffin,
You're right again,ice can be most devious.I spend lots of hours most Winters physically removing it and snow accumulations from roofs just up the road a piece in Bangor and surrounding towns. This Winter as you well know is really easy and none of that to do.
There are spots here that are just as quirky for trapping ice accumulations-that weren't prepared for as well as this gentlemans situation can now be with all the advice he has gotten.In fact now that I'm able to post pictures and we do get any weather I'll be sure to post pics of the area I've talked about.
To help alleviate the ice buildup he could always rake out some snow after each dumping.I know it would have been better to eliminate this area in the design phase-but it looks to be a little late for that-time to deal with what he has even though it's far from ideal.
Did you see my shot of Vinalhaven in "on the way"
I suppose if it were mine, I'd rather use melt cable than keep removing snow mechanicly. That is one high roof!I'll go renew that thread and see Vinylhaven.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Piffin,
Melt cable would help that issue very well-good point.
gotta ask, what would a 'pro' installation of melt cable look like? where would you plug it in? how would you secure it? - I've never seen a clean install, only HO sloppy dangling extension cords etc. -
"there's enough for everyone"
good question
but it brings us full circle
Pros design a roof so that a melt cable is un-necessaryI guess I'd have to install the GFCI in the soffits - now we're ready for Christmass lights too - but I would how often it would require resetting. It would need a shield to keep splashing water from tripping it
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I am lazy and didn't Google for it, but I seem to recall the name as Bylin systems. They make professional and permanent roof heating systems for ice dam prevention.
I got a quote for an engineered package from them to heat some valleys I thought might be a problem.
Permanently wired, GFCI protected, thermostatically controlled, and not cheap. In use on many of the buildings on Cornell's campus in Ithaca, NY, just to give one example.
We have a big snow stack on all the well-insulated roofs in town now. The problem roofs all have icicles showing. But the temps today began at 8 below. Thermostatically controlled melting systems only fire on the heat in the warmup range of 25 to 40 when the dams build and water intrusion can happen.
Piffen,
" Evil Glee"------- I LOVE that!!!!!!!!
I think maybe I will work that into my advertising------
" Hazlett Roofing & Renovation Ltd------ Evil Glee for over 20 years"
or
"Hazlett Roofing & Renovation Ltd.------------- Evil glee is what pays for my kids private schooling"
Oh---the possibilites are endless------
I think we both know that these are problems that should be designed out of existence-------- rather than depending on exceptional materials or extrodinary workmanship
If the problem is designed out of existence----it's gone forever.
If the problem is "solved" through workmanship---- it's going to return no matter what---- it's just a matter of when?--- next week?--- 5 years from now?, 30 years from now?, 80 years from now?
in the real world------- it's problems like these that are my bread and butter. you know I prefer to work alone----and situations like these are ideal for solo work.--the LONGER the problem has existed---- the more Mercenary the business aspect can be.
about 9 years ago I encountered a similar situation on one of the first jobs I ever subbed OUT. flashing job performed by sub------- in-adequate to the task-------and 2 months after a major roof replacement--- LEAK.
Well------- that was entirely MY fault---- so I explained the situation to the homeowner------- spent a day opening the roof and completely re-flashing the situation with my OWN hands this time---and buttoned everything back up
Then---- opende up the wall downstairs---removed all the plaster, removed all the studs that had been rotting for years---probably since the house was built 80 years ago---re-framed---repaired the plaster etc.-----all that work--for free---as it should be.
a couple years later--same customer calls me---situation is leaking AGAIN.----turns out that the homeowner who had been coating the area with tar once or twice a year for about 20 years due to ongoing leaks--------- decided to maintain that "schedule" as maintenace-------- problem is---that he was now smearing roof cement on EPDM------- you know the result
So stephen goes back out for the THIRD time---only then I got paid.
that customer became one of my greatest sources of referalls---- I have done at least 7 roofs on that block---in fact---at that time I could stand in the middle of the street and hit all 7 houses with a baseball( no longer---the arm ain't what it once was)
I also now live across the street from his daughter and son -in-law and see that customer all the time---- one of the worlds all-time great guys.
sorry to drone on--------- but one last story
2 years ago---- had a customer for whom I had replaced a roof---and in fact done several roofs for various family members.------- customer isabout to make an offer on buying another house------ customer knows the roof will need replaced immediately----so calls me to suss out the situation before she makes her offer
I look at the house----and see it's got a situation HIGHLY similar to the one previously described above----------- so I point out to the customer that the roof can be replaced for X amount--- that THIS is the trouble spot---and even after replaceing the roof--- the liklihood of it becoming a trouble spot in the future is extremely high---and always will be----because of the houses design.
Ssoooooooo--- the customer passes up THAT house-----and a month later buys an even MORE beautiful house( much more beautifull BTW---in an even better neighborhood)------
Stephens Evil glee---results in another happy result.
Just gotts know when I am NOT gonna let a prospective customers problem become MY problem.
Best wishes, Stephen
Framer went nut's and did it his own way! I am also dealing with 8-0 door RO on the inside only being 96" literally. I am going to take some more detailed pics of the problematic areas, I hope I can squeeze in there.
This is your house? If so, are you the GC also, aka "owner-builder?"
If you aren't doing it yourself, and have a GC, what does your GC say about the dead valley situation, the lack of flashing, the joists poked through the brick, the R.O. heights being wrong, etc., etc.?
Give us some background, please. We are dying to hear how the plan was chosen, who qualified the framer and gave him the job, who chose the molded concrete facing products ("brick" and "stone") and supervised their installation, what siding products are going on the side and rear elevations, etc., etc.
This is my house and Yes I am the GC. This is my first house build so this stuff probably was bound to happen. Plan was chosen from local architect link to specific plan http://www.olsonplans.com/plans/view.php?plan=25248 . I picked out Lee Brick Scottsdale O/S Brick with Grey Machine Cut Stone. We have Anderson 400 series casement windows throughout and Velux skylights on top. Framer has done about 4 houses on the street here and everybody was happy with him. There were some warning signs. Drinking on the job found many a bottle of vodka in the basement window wells! When I brought in some 9' Grace Vycor Plus do flash around the windows they thought I was frickin nuts! I had to print out the flashing guide and go step by step on how to do it the right way. WHen he installed the front door the RO height was messed up and he used a sawzall to rip some off the header. House is brick all around. This build has been a real train wreck if you know what I mean.
Sorry if I insulted your house, but that is the style here too. Good you keep watching the construction. Some of these type houses have serious problems here because of poor construction by inexperienced and untrained help. Those details have to be done right because the nature of the house style is designed to fail with all the roof penetrations and crazy cutups.
And the owner has to be able to afford the house to begin with. Too many are in way over their heads.
Since it's yours, why not do some kind of redesign now?
Get rid of the problems.
I'm also curious - since you are the gc, did you already bid the roof work? What did your roofers say when they saw the plans?
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
that brick work doesnt look right on the right side of the windows.. 2+3=7
I can't give any help with how to flash that, but what are those dumbass architechs thinking? And I for one find those cut up roofs stupid looking. Looks like something you would see in an amusemant park.
Mark, stop at the magazine rack in HD or Lowes. There will be a dozen books of plans with that same crap on the cover.
Here in Cedar City UT every new construction looks just like that. Fake rock, brick veneer, roof with a dozen valleys & dormers and leaks waiting to happen.
Joe H
Edit: if you look in the kitchen it's Sub Zero, Wolf or Viking range & Granite counters. Guaranteed.
Edited 1/2/2006 11:49 pm by JoeH
So you got the same crap in Cedar City? I was there 18 years ago. Pretty sleepy place then, I really liked it.
I guess those monstrocities might impress friends/relatives of the owners for a few years, but what's to become of them when they start falling apart, and the owners are in default because of "creative financing" too many suvs, skyrocketing heating bills, had a child that needs to go to college etc. It's amazing to me that people really want them. I live in a too small 24x32 cape, but no way would I want that much wasted space.
i have another question.
it appears the main roof is already finished, are the shingles already installed on the roof with the dead valleys?
Wood and/or metal crickets?
Getting in kind of late here . . .
Make that room beneath the 2 valleys into a bathroom. Create 'water wall' features on both sides (it's gonna happen anyway).
Good grief. Wasn't a roof plan included with the set of documents?
As far as preventing leaks that are your responsibility - floor it!
It looks like 3d "in your face" indecision - ok, I kinda like it, that Harry Potter castle look - hey, does he do roofs?
Seriously, the thing is that what would probably would keep the thing from leaking wouldn't be visually acceptable - would you be able to see the crickets?
Which ever way you go, snow will be trapped and compressed into glaciers.
The ice will quickly tear up whatever waterproofing scheme you come up with. So make provisions now to install permanent heat tape. Bring your electrician in on this one before the interior is finished.
I'd even consider making a couple access panels now so you can monitor the roof/wall juncture from inside, and to provide a way to dry out the wall cavities when (not if) water seeps in.
http://www.costofwar.com/