I just added a small (2’x4′) addition to my house to hold a gas fireplace. The addition has a shed roof that butts up against the wall of the house.
I’m a little confused about the order and placement of all the things I’m supposed to put on the roof. I covered the roof with ice and water shield. Since the roof is so small, this covers the entire roof. Then I put adhesive flashing over the place the roof meets the house, and tucked it under the housewrap.
Since the ice and water shield covers the whole roof, do I also need roofing paper?
Since I used the adhesive flashing, so i still need metal flashing?
If so, am I correct in thinking that this flashing belongs under the siding on the house and over the shingle on the roof?
If I need metal flashing, do I just cut it off flush with each edge of the roof?
Replies
Since the ice and water shield covers the whole roof, do I also need roofing paper?
No.
Since I used the adhesive flashing, so i still need metal flashing?
Yes.
If so, am I correct in thinking that this flashing belongs under the siding on the house and over the shingle on the roof?
Yes.
If I need metal flashing, do I just cut it off flush with each edge of the roof?
Possibly. I sometimes cut it a half inch or so long on each end and fold it under the shingles. Gives a cleaner look.
Birth, school, work, death.....................
Thanks!
In addition to what has already been said, it is good to use nails compatible with the metal of the flashing. That means aluminum nails, not galvanized, for nailing aluminum flashing. This is a common error.
Of course, the nailing for the flashing is only into the wall, and high enough to be behind the siding. No nails go down through the flashing into the roof.
So the flashing just sits on top of the roof? Sorry, I'm a novice here, so maybe this is obvious, but don't I have to worry that it will spring up and away from the roof?
The Breaktime crew has given you good advise.
When we have wall flashing we put roofing tar underneath the outside edge (the edge on top of the roof) of the flashing. We then nail it down about every six inches and put the roofing tar or other type of heavy duty caulk over the nail heads. We use roofing tar found in caulk tubes for these applications.
As you observed or questioned, if the flashing springs up away form the roof, it will no function as required, and may allow water into the home.
After we are finished, we paint the flashing to match the roof color.
We have both aluminum and galvinized flashing here in TX. We use a pre-painted (color choice to match the roof or trim) aluminum "DL style" roof edge, over a 1 x 2 trim at the top of the facia. The DL has a 3/4" protrusion help to shed the water further from the house. It looks good, and the shingles will not curl down in the years to come, like it sometimes does with typical "L" flashing, with shingles slightly (1/2" to 3/4") over the outside edge.
Another question just occurred to me. Is this also true of the drip edge, that I should use aluminum and not galvanized nails?
There's probably not 3 pieces of aluminum drip edge nailed on with aluminum nails in the northern hemisphere. Galvanized nails are fine. Just nail where water is not running across the nails. Think "hidden fasteners". If you need to fasten the bottom of the flashing, nail down strips of the same material as the flashing so the nails will be covered by the flashing, but the strips will protrude out from under the flashing. Install your flashing, and bend the tabs back up over the bottom of it and cut them off to the same length.Birth, school, work, death.....................
Cough
Ahem...I nailed on ten or so - just happened to have some AL nails one day.
So the grand total is over a dozen.;)
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"Over A Dozen" + one...Troy Sprout
Square, Level & Plumb Renovations
They don't sell much galv. drip here either. 10-15 years ago they did, because I preferred it to aluminum. Haven't seen any for a while. I also haven't seen any drip edge falling off the house because of galvanic reaction.Birth, school, work, death.....................
I agree on the lack of galvanic action. It just doesn't get wet enough wheere the nail and the AL meet
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The only place the nails should get wet is on the last piece of ridge cap. You ever figured out an alternate to face nailing them?Birth, school, work, death.....................
seeyou,
I Rarely bother to put em on this way-------
but---the last ridge cap is actually put on second to last.
in other words---cap down to the end of the ridge untill you have only 2 caps to go
put the last cap on the end of the ridge
the 2nd to last cap will cover THOSE nails------slide the 2nd to last cap under the 3rd to last cap----you might have to cut 2 inches off of the top of the 2nd to last cap ( the top---not the tab part)---to get it to fit in there.
Gently pull back the corners on the 3rd to last cap and shoot your nails into the 2nd to last cap
Bingo---no exposed nails. Last cap is reversed and you still need a short half cap in there somewhere----looks better if you start at both ends--meet and make the transition in the middle.
It took longer to type that---then it does to actually do the procedure
But usually I put 4 nails through the last cap---which is just the tab portion---and then geocel the nails heads.
BTW---we can get aluminum or galvanized DE here.---the galvanized is painted---and it's fantastic stuff---doesn't dent etc.
BTW---what do you think about the corrosion possibilities of a few stray copper nails which may or may not have found their way into some aluminum drip edge??????
Stephen
Edited 10/29/2005 7:48 am ET by Hazlett
Seeyou,
I am an idiot
I just remembered why I rarely do it that way
Actually did it yesterday that way in the rain ( the rain we WERE NOT supposed to get BTW LOL)
I only do it that way on Repairs---like a dormer or valley flashing repair when you are breaking into the middle of an already existing line of ridge caps.
Stephen
BTW---what do you think about the corrosion possibilities of a few stray copper nails which may or may not have found their way into some aluminum drip edge??????
I don't think too much about it. Water has to present in some form for galvanic action to take place. Copper is more noble than alum, so If the nail and the drip edge were staying wet, the hole in the drip edge might enlarge slightly.
Now, on the other hand, cu apron flashings face nailed with galv nails will soon be flopping in the breeze when the nail dissapears. Birth, school, work, death.....................
NoOh, wait - Piffin screws
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Hey---that's right!-------- this years model---the 2005 self sealing piffin screws!
I see an untapped market
Stephen
Drip edge is usually galvanized, so the nails should be too.
I wonder if that is a regional thing. I haven't seen any galvanized drip edge since I moved east. All AL or copper here.
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Plenty of galvy drip here in NH. Want some?
I've never seen or heard of galvanized drip edge.
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They sell it here - pretty ugly though.
It is EVERYWHERE (Galv EVE DRIP) here
I just bought 325 26 g drip, and 50' rolls for making my valley's
Galv drip, flashing, everything.
Strange how the regions work-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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