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flashing, sealant, ? [cedar trim]

Crackshot | Posted in General Discussion on October 27, 2005 11:40am

I have created a walkout basement by installing a sliding glass door in a saw-cut opening in 8-inch concrete walls. I’m just about to trim-out the sides of the opening with 1×4 and 1×6 cedar boards. At the top of the concrete wall, exterior on the house, there’s the bottom of the brick veneer that is used as the siding material for the main level. Since the concrete saw-cuts go all the way from the concrete slab-on-grade at the bottom, up to the top of concrete wall to the bottom of the brick, I think I need to add trim boards that go all the way up to the bottom of the brick for appearance and sealing. The problem is, the thickness of the cedar board is about 3/4 inch, which is about 1/8 inch more than the brick is overhanging the concrete wall at that point. Therefore a thin strip of the pourous top of the cedar board is exposed and facing upwards. So rain water will be able to sit on the top edge of the cedar board, soak in, and swell/crack the board. [This is only a problem at each side of opening, as the main length of the slider in the opening is recessed approx 4 inches back from the brick]. 

So the question is… What’s the best material or design to place on top of these trim boards to divert the water? Add flashing? (if so, what does that look like). Add a bead of window sealant? Taper the top of the board to a narrower thickness to go flush with the brick or make the brick “overhang” as is the case along the length of the slider which is recessed in the opening?

All ideas welcome. THANKS!   Crackshot 

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Replies

  1. calvin | Oct 28, 2005 01:29am | #1

    If you could post a picture it would be clearer than your pretty good explanation.  Looking at that side of the house might suggest something that looks "normal".

    Instead of trying to cover it up, could you take a grinder and bevel each side of the saw cut, caulk with a "sanded" urethane caulk to match the joints in the masonry (assuming there's form joints that appear beveled?

    A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    Quittin' Time

     

    1. Crackshot | Oct 28, 2005 11:20pm | #2

      here's a photo:

      http://mike.benson.org/cedarboard45.JPG

      Edited 10/28/2005 4:38 pm ET by Crackshot

      1. calvin | Oct 29, 2005 01:23pm | #4

        Can you step back and take one of that whole area/side of house?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

        Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

        Quittin' Time

         

        1. Crackshot | Oct 29, 2005 07:08pm | #6

          Thanks for your persistence Calvin. I will try to get another photo posted (wider area), as soon as I can. Having a few challenges with the digitil camera at the moment...

          thanks.  Crackshot.

          1. calvin | Oct 29, 2005 07:28pm | #7

            Thanks, you've got the closeup.  With a shot of that side, maybe someone can come up with the detail most pleasing to the eye.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

            Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

            Quittin' Time

             

  2. doodabug | Oct 29, 2005 12:37am | #3

    crude sketch

    1. Crackshot | Oct 29, 2005 07:07pm | #5

      doodabug -

      thanks for the sketch. I get the concept. What material whould you say might be best to use, and how might it be attached to the concrete wall?

      thanks.  Crackshot.

      1. doodabug | Oct 29, 2005 08:12pm | #8

        I would use the same material as your trim and nail it on top of your headpiece.

        1. Crackshot | Oct 30, 2005 02:27am | #9

          Doodabug - Sounds like a good approach. I could do that. Let me ask you this: in your experience, is the "drip edge" shape critical? In this part of the country, we do freeze hard, and get icicles, etc. Do you think it might also work if I "cheated" by just cutting a 45-degree bite out of the top of the board, so that the top of the board is effectively thinner and is flush with the brick? Then I would stain the snot out of the angled surface so water would run off not soak in. Also I would seal between the brick and very top edge of the cedar board with a bead of the window sealing product that I am already using anyway [GE Max5000 siliconized acrylic caulk, clear]. Is that a legitimate construction technique in your opinion, or would that appear to be something that a pro would not do?

          Thanks! 

          1. doodabug | Oct 30, 2005 05:06pm | #10

            The notch on the bottom of the drip edge I drew is the critical detail, without that the water will run down the face of your trim. I would caulk the under side of brick and push trim up into it.

          2. Crackshot | Oct 31, 2005 03:36pm | #11

            sound right to me. Thanks for the time and insights.

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