Hello all,
I’m getting ready to build a 30′ x 40′ workshop. Due to the ground there will be a 3 block high stem wall on the footers and then a 6″ slab, sitting on 2″ of foam insulation. The 2″ x 6″ walls won’t fully cover the top of the block and I want the floor to be flat all the way to the wall and am afraid the shrinkage of the concrete will make the block stick up. To make sure I’m considering just using 2″ x 8″ walls. Or is there a way to do this more simply?
Thanks.
Steve.
Replies
Pour the slab as a cap on top of the blocks. Close off the block cavityies so you don't lose all the concrete into them.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
If I use the slab to cap the blocks, wouldn't it need to be an inch or so thick? And if so, wouldn't I need to make a form on the outside of the blocks?
Steve.
Use a 4" "L" block, and pour the slab over it. The joint between slab and block will then be covered by the 2x6, and any "shrinkage" (which should be virtually nil), can be covered by a bead of silicone sealant at the base of the wall.
Bob
Six inches is pretty thick for a floor. Do you expect to use heavy equipment? Even garage floors are typically four inches thick.
Six inches is good to have in a shop if there are any heavy machines like a mill or lathe. The peace of mind is worth minor extra expense. Riggers usually show up with a large forklift, and when they leave after placing a heavy machine, a 4-inch floor might have some new cracks. Don't forget to spec the apron or driveway to handle the same load as the floor.And speaking of cracks, he might want to ask for some fiberglass chop in the concrete mix to catch the ones that get past the control joints.
just use the block that made for slabs
Steve.
your top course of block could be a "shoe block". I believe this is what another post said. The Shoe block is 8" x 8" x 16" and on one face there is the "L". I looked for a website. atlasblock.com has a chart that shows the shape. sort of.
phil powell
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