I think this is what I need, but open to suggestions as always…
Doing a kitchen remodel on a balloon framed house with a 2 story addition tacked on. The passageway from the kitchen into the addition is carried by an approx 10′ long header that ends about 3 feet from the perpendicular outside wall. (Hope I’m describing it clearly… IOW, the passageway only represents about 3/4 of the wall section in question). From what I can see, they cut through the exterior studs and the header supports the cut ends. We want to open up the passageway about another 2 feet. It seems to me that if I was to replace the header entirely, I’d wind up having to put up shoring that would only bear on the ceiling joist ends, as the band joist is not going to be easily accessible, (not to mention all the associated agida).
I’m thinking that it would be infinitely easier to put together an extension of the header, and use steel flitch plates both sides through bolted. Opinions? I’m thinking 1/4 ” steel, about a foot to each side of the splice, maybe 3 staggered 3/8″ bolts on each end?
Whatdyou guys think?
Thanks as always!
PaulB
Replies
Im thinking that putting a flitch plate on each side is more of a pain in the #### than its worth. They are not fun on the ground let alone trying to fit one in while the header is already up.
2 Feet? You are talking a good amount of prep and labor to open up a 10' opening another 2 feet. Not trying to discourage, just making sure you are ready for the challenge.
In my opinion, your easiest and most cost efficient bet would be to take out the old header and put in a new one that spans the whole length of the new opening. Being a bearing wall if you are not familiar with how this process goes, consider getting some professional help.
If I understand correctly you are not talking about what I know a flitch beam to be. In a flitch beam the steel would extend the full length of the opening as would the wood on either side. What you are suggesting is not much more than a heavy duty mending plate. For sure the steel is neither long enough nor bolted enough. No inspector would approve such a solution without professional engineering.
You don't need to support the rim joist to support the wall. We have done many a job where we have supported the floor joists back a foot or so and installed a dropped beam. Done many where we've taken out the rim, cut the joist's back and installed flush beams. Do it right, build a temp wall and take the old beam out and replace it with some properly sized LVL's.
Thanks guys...
One of my many mentors here called to give me a smack upside the head (nicely ;) ) and correct the error of my ways.
Glad to have this place as a resource, we all gotta start somewhere...
PaulB