A wood floor-refinishing job has fallen to me that I’d really rather not do because the schedule is already swamped, but it looks like it’s mine anyway. I suggested that they get the most reputable floor-refinishing guy in our area and so they called him. He came for a look, doesn’t want the job either and so has declined.
These are long-term clients (5 years) that have provided approximately 70% of our work for that period. We are virtually staff, so to speak, as they continue to renovate, restore and add onto their beautiful 1940’s home. It wouldn’t be appropriate to say “no” and so I’ve agreed to do the job.
This is an white oak parquet dining room floor comprised of 12″….. “assembled” wood tiles. There are beveled edges on each tile, leaving a V groove between all tiles. It appears the only so-called finish ever applied to the floor was wax, with many applications of it over the years.
The beveled wood edges of those “lovely” V grooves have collected a lot of grime over years, but a quick scraping and examination revealed that the floor is thankfully not veneered (as we think of it today) but that the top layer is at a minimum of 3/16″. And so there’s enough wood to do some sanding. Very little sanding will actually be required for just smoothing the surface because there are no deep scratches or other serious infractions.
Although I’m not looking forward to cleaning and sanding all those V grooves, my biggest concern centers around applying the new finish. I’m imagining that any attempt to apply a film type finish via conventional techniques will result in pooling of the finish in those grooves and will not render a nice look at all. And so, I’ve pretty much reached the conclusion that there are two choices for finish. 1- Penetrating oil finish. 2- Spray application of a film type finish.
Therein lies my question. Has anyone here tried to apply Traffic waterborne or any waterborne floor-rated poly via a spray gun? I would be using my compressor, material pot, hoses and gun. Potential problems or aggravations (besides all the necessary masking of the entire room)?
Any suggestions, guidance and/or cautions much appreciated.
Replies
I have another concern.
WAX.
I am not sure how well you can get the wax off the surface. But unless you are can sand down enough to take out the Vgroves you are going to have wax problems.
I would plan on 3 or 4 washings with a solvent, at the least.
Also you might want to think about a shellac barrier coat.
Thanks for the thoughts Bill, but what you mentioned was already on the agenda......a given , if you will.
As you can imagine, I'm not looking forward to all the ways and means of refurbishing this floor. That's why I wanted to pass the buck, but it didn't work. Damn. ;-)
Yes, I have a dandy set of kneepads. Gonna wear 'em out on this one floor, I think.
Edit: And of course, I also have appropriate respiratory gear to handle the solvent vapors.
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
Edited 10/7/2003 12:03:15 PM ET by GOLDHILLER
Try posting that question over at the forum at http://www.homesteadfinishing.com. I've gotten good info and products from Jeff Jewitt for several years.
If the floor isn't too large take it up and start all over again.
The wax and crud or more "dog drool" may do the same thing to you here that happened with your window sill. Be it food or a glass of wine.
Sounds like an open inventation to a great many man hours. If some problem arises can you stand for the warrenty? Or will the HO cover it?
Install a new floor and let the finisher handle it from there. Since he declined that should have set off an alarm bell or at least a warning buzzer. 3/16" isn't much to play with.
Clean and fill is an option but that usally dosen't have much eye appeal not to mention potenial flaking.
Hi-oh supd bar away!!!
BTW... What ever happened with the window sill refinish?
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Well, evidently you missed my window sill/window seat update over at Knots.
My best guess eventually seemed to lay with enzyme contamination from the doggie drool. Unlike bacteria, these enzymes can survive for long periods of time saturated into the wood. Then when dewaxed shellac was applied as a barrier coat against the silicone contamination, the enzymes began to digest the protein in the shellac. Digestive process causing outgassing resulting in blistered finish. Since these enzymes are dependant upon a neuutral PH environment, I stripped the sills to bare wood and treated with vinegar. Four treatments over two days in total. When all was dried out again, I applied the dewaxed shellac, followed by color coats and then the clear finish coats. That was about ten days ago. All is well...........finally.....it would seem. I guess this proves I'm not too old yet to discover something new.
About this floor.......replacement was mentioned/sugggested to them months ago when refinishing was first discussed. Didn't go over big, at all. They're determined to keep this particular floor if at all possible and no, there won't be any financial repercussions to me if I can't make it work. Same deal as the sills. Unusual problems entailing unusual procedures and costs to remedy.......not a problem. Never has been with these folks. They aren't at all stingy. They just have personal desires (and fortunately the billfold to back them...win,lose, or fold) and they know I'll give everything I have to make them happen. It's a cost+ relationship. In a nutshell..... dream clients. Wish I had that 25 years ago. <g>
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
I suggested that they get the most reputable floor-refinishing guy in our area and so they called him. He came for a look, doesn't want the job either and so has declined.
That's not good. Why did he turn it down? I'd call him and pick his brain a little.
Assuming that the floor can indeed be re-finished: It will need a thorough sanding (bare wood) to remove any contaminants. The "V" grooves will have to be sanded very well or they'll reject finish. I use a Festo linear sander with a V profile. A piece of folded 60 paper is the old fashioned way.
Has anyone here tried to apply Traffic waterborne or any waterborne floor-rated poly via a spray gun? I would be using my compressor, material pot, hoses and gun. Potential problems or aggravations (besides all the necessary masking of the entire room)?
You're concentrating on the finish when you should be concerned about sanding the floor properly. Coating this floor is nothing more than an OMU brush job. Traffic is NOT the right finish for this floor unless you are accomplished at coating water.
I'm not aware of anyone in the U.S. spraying floor finish, OMU or H2O. An accomplished Russian company, (Integraf) has been running away with NWFA floor awards the last few years. They say they spray Traffic. Their method is a closely guarded secret.....but being Ruskies....I think they're full of crap. I think their spray claim is PR bunk. Major finish companies have poured a lot of money into spray technology r&d. They have yet to introduce anything to market.
Ditch
I think he declined after he was informed that this wasn't thin veneer because he doesn't care to spend alot of time on his knees. Bad joints maybe. (No, not that kind of "bad" joint).
And maybe his schedule is just too full already to add this time consumer onto it. He's a one-man show.
Thanks for the info on attempts to spray Traffic. I shan't think on it any further cause now I know.
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
There's a lot of different ways of seeing this and since I'm blind from herre, this is mine -
It's an old very nice floor so they want to keep it. The detailing makes it as much a piece of fine furniture as it is a floor covering, so threat it that way.
$$$$$$$
wax - You will need to remove most of it by using a scraper first. It will gum up the sandpaper and the excessive heat will beat it down further into the wood grain. After scraping you'll need to use a solvent like laquer thinner or maybe acetone to pull it up. Then you can sand things a little but you may still have some uneven patina.
Most compatable with the wax residue and with the idea of antique furniture is a rubbing oil or tung oil finish.
All of this means you might be spending a couple of months on your knees and they will have to forego walking on it all that time while multiple coats cure properly. Have they got any long trips planned?
Excellence is its own reward!
"It's an old very nice floor so they want to keep it. The detailing makes it as much a piece of fine furniture as it is a floor covering, so treat it that way. $$$$$$$"
As always ...........cost +. Yes, I've read the 22 reasons why I shouldn't, but I can name one why I should...............I never lose my butt. If I want to make more, I charge more per hour. :-)
"Have they got any long trips planned?"
Yes. We used up this summer's 3 week tour of Europe to woodwork recoloring and finishing and this spring's extendedvacation is already allocated to more of the same. Timeline on this is by Xmas...no later. Thanksgiving would be better and I'll shoot for that. They'll be in the house for the procedure.
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.