Replies

1. 
   wallyo | Mar 27, 2003 06:14pm | #1

   Talk to anyone and they would probably tell you Glitza and not there water based version.  The Nasty stuff that has Flamable on it, the one that you have to move out on account of.

   I don't touch the stuff value my brain cell too much.  Second best is Boni Kemi products theirTraffic line is suppose to be good.  Never  used it but I use their Mega good stuff with good results not as hard as Glitza but I have had no complaints from customers.  It is water based low oder you still should wear a approved mask. I put their oil on first it is like Watco wait 18+ hours then clear coat you don't need to do it but using the natural oil gives the floor's grain more depth.

1. 
   ye278421b | Mar 29, 2003 06:45pm | #4

   Thanks Wally, do you know the supp;liers for Glitza and Duracem?

   Thanks Andrew

   my email is [email protected]

1. 
   wallyo | Mar 29, 2003 08:00pm | #5

   Glitza maybe hard to get it is so volital that they try to limit to "Professional use" that is the formaldehyde version, (at least that is what I think is in it).  Glitiza does a water borne version too I am loyal to Bona Kemi their service support is great if there are problems or Questions.  My supplier for either is Otty Floor they handle Rocky Mountain States.  Both products have regional distributeships.  If you give me your area I could look it up.

   If you are doing this your self most places that sell the stuff are wholesale only.  Cash says a lot if you walk in not looking skidish and have read up on  its application they will probably sell to you the H2O borne finish.  But no Urathanes or Modifies oil Urathanes.  As the previous post said top coating may be an option.  If it is just one room that is graying sand that down refinish it the put two top coats on the rest as long as the old is well adhered. I just did that, bedrooms were under carpet for fifty years had urathane on them, living was raw oak under carpet. Sanded living room screened the bed room put two coats on the bedroom three on the living room. It looks great and is adhering well.  Bona has detailed instructions on how to recoat an old floor.

   Side Note Once went into a house that I was doing the kitchen on, the owners had a maintance coat of Glitza done on the floor and had gone away for a few days they asked me to check the floor open a few windows.  The house had been locked up for twenty four hours.  Was there for ten minutes and I was so out of it.

2. 
   dthodal | Mar 27, 2003 08:19pm | #2

   You may not have to strip all the original sealer off, unless the greying in in the wood. First I would do a test patch of a new finish and see how the old and new react. If okay, no bubbling or peeling or other signs of incompatibility, then I would screen the floor starting from 50 grit on up to 80 or 100 grit. Then you can stop sanding at a point where the floor looks acceptable to you.

   You may need to strip it all; I would still recommend the round screen like a Clarke 1700. It is a bit more forgiving than a drum sander, especially on fir.

   As to my floor finish, I have used Duraseal oil-modified polyurethane for over 10 years and have had nothing but excellent results. Even over other existing finishs, a good screen and new coats have held up well; mud, dirt dogs and moisture, the common banes of wood floors do not seem to bother the Duraseal. The process is three coats with 24 hour drying time inbetween each coat. I will start with a screening and vacumning, then tack cloth to pull all the sanding dust from the floor. Start with a gloss and lambswool or good bristle brush. Let dry overnight and repeat the process the next day. The third or final coat I use a satin, that leaves a flat lustre for the finish.

   As with any finishes, a good respirator and ventilation is essential. I am in the habit of buying new filters for each floor. With oil based finishes, remember the flammability of rags and vapours.

   David

   walk good
1. 
   ye278421b | Mar 29, 2003 06:40pm | #3

   Dave Thankyou so much, where do you get DURASEAL from, i.e. who makes it? or distributes it?

   THANKS andrew

   My email is [email protected]