I don’t know about anyone else here…but those fluidmaster toilet tank fill valves are CRAP!!! The ones with the float cup you adjust up/down on a wire spindle. In the last few months I know I’ve replaced darn well near 8 of them. For some reason when they go bad either they won’t fill the tank at all (like they clog up) or they take FOREVER to fill the tank back up or they won’t shut off.
I replaced a leaking toilet bowl today. The fill valve worked fine, I never even touched it or any of the guts of the tank. When I hooked the tank back up and turned on the water, it wouldn’t stop filling despite the float cup being all the way up. Geesh, the things are crap.
I replaced that one with one of those newer Korkie Quietfill valves. They don’t have a float cup, thought I’d try it out. Seems to work fine, just as easy installation. Costs about $3 more. But ya gotta watch out, you adjust the water fill line on it by twisting it counterclockwise a small turn and pull the vavle to length then twist clockwise to relock the length. I thought I had it locked but when I turned the water on the @#%^$@# thing almost shot out of the bowl like a missle, just shot up
Replies
The Fluidmaster toilet tank fill valves are subject to hard water and other water conditions that tend to either slow operation of the float mechanism or harden the valve diaphragm. Both are relatively easy to handle without replacing the entire valve.
A few shots of "The Works", or any other hydrochloric acid based deliming agent or Mauriac acid, same stuff, used commercially for masonry or pools, does a quick job of clearing a crusted mechanism.
A trick is to turn off the water, drain the tank by flushing and pour some solution directly down the hole normally covered by the flapper valve. Don't get it on the flapper. The acid eats deposits in the flush ring around the bowl and helps clear the holes. With the ring and holes clear the toilet flushes much more efficiently. Be sure to rinse thoroughly after using any acid based solution.
The rubber diaphragm that activated the flush valve is easily replaced and the disk is both readily available and cheap. Most hardware stores have them in the plumbing department. In some water conditions plan on replacing the diaphragm every three to five years or so.
IMHO, Fluidmaster flush valves aren't great but they are OK, fairly reliable and relatively cheap.
OK - so what brand flush valves are good/great/best?
Some years ago I had 3 rental properties. One year it seemed that every toilet's flush valve in the 3 houses had to be repaired. I felt like the toilet repair man - as a matter of fact, that was what I called myself. Some messed up again within a year or so.
We use them all the time but if you get any debri in them they are subject to sticking either on or off. Usually we find when the valve has been turned off then back on it knocks some debri loose and that is when the problem occure. Pop the top off and the diaphram and let some clear water run through and it usually does the trick. We like them a lot more than most of the stuff we see shipped in replacement toilets. DanT
I'll still vote for the Fluidmaster valves - sounds like they are easier to adjust.
They are, however, sensitive to crud being jammed in them. That's probably why the instructions tell you to flush the supply line before operation, twist the top cap off and turn on the water with an inverted glass held over the top of the valve as a diverter. Cannot comment on the effects of hard water - ours is very soft.
I like a valve that can be repaired 95+% of the time in under 5 minutes with a readily available 75 cent diaphram and no tools.
Just my .02
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.