Replies

1. 
   GACC_DAllas | May 26, 2001 03:34am | #1

   *
   Hey Pat,

   I knew a top notch carpenter here in Dallas of the same name. However, may he rest in peace, he is no longer with us.

   If possible, I like to get in before rock with a flat based power plane and smooth out the bows in the door rough openings.

   You can't teach a new dog old tricks.......they just don't seem to listen.

   Ed.

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil_ | May 26, 2001 04:37am | #2

   *Pat, you sound frustrated. If it was easy, any one could do it.Why not tell the builder to send out all straight studs, or better yet, have the trim suppliers sent out jambs that bulging to fit the wider than anticipated rough frame.Come to think of it, since it happens so often, maybe it is anticiapated.Anyways, most framers shoot the trimmers together while they are laying down. I personally don't do that unless I have to. I prefer to stand the walls up, then finish the trimmer nailing. At least I do it that way on the interior partitions. I suppose I'd have a lot of stuff to grump about if I was trimming...blue

1. 
   Mike_Willms | May 27, 2001 07:18am | #3

   *3/8" difference is a joke. Using crowned or bowed lumber for trimmers is a joke. Maybe the material in your area is that bad, I don't know. I usually end up with around 15% of my studs being un-usable, so they get cut up for blocking. If the framers smart enough to use straight material behind kitchen cabinets, doors should get the same attention. Otherwise he's probably never hung a door, successfully anyways. I think all framers should have to regularily drywall and trim their own work. At very least talk with the trades that finish off the houses and see if something needs to be done differently.

1. 
   GACC_DAllas | May 27, 2001 06:28pm | #4

   *Mike,25 years ago that's how we did it, in Dallas at least. We did the framing, drywall, trim and cabinets. The age of specializations has it's drawbacks.Ed.

1. 
   jason_mis | May 28, 2001 05:25am | #5

   *well,wood is a funny thing..sometimes you put it in straight...and it doesnt stay that way..I have seen studs put in a wall that had vurtually no crown..and then have had to go back and take them out because they bowed so bad that they were unusable.. Jason

2. 
   jim_at_great_white | May 28, 2001 07:30am | #6

   *flush and tihgt is always right, loose and long is almost always wrong.at least that is what I try to tell myself and the people around me.jim

3. 
   Tom_Moller | Jun 04, 2001 08:42am | #7

   *Someday I'm going to work up the courage to try steel studs on a project.

2. 
   Pat_Sullivan | Jun 04, 2001 08:42am | #8

   *
   I've seen trimmers offset by 3/8" on rammed door openings that I have to put a door in. It sure makes my job a pain in the ass having to beat the dry wall down and setting the miter box at more than the usual 3 degrees back set that I usually use on flush openings for the casing. Do we need to tell the "kids" to drive a nail at 45 degrees with the nail gun in the middle of the trimmer, then pull out the beater and straighten out the trimmer? We always save out the best studs for the kitchen and bath walls, and if I bitch enough, the trimmers. We Always install the trimmer after the walls are up shooting 2 16s under the trimmer,and espescilly in the basement, use a concrete under the trimmer to give the penning more rigidity.
   Bowed studs are always cutup for the trimmers for the windows and doors,(a big bow is a small bow when cut in half) But the bow needs to be taken out. If placing a bowed stud next to an oppisitlly bowed stud, turn the bowed stud in the opposite direction, place a nail in the middle of the stud at a 45 degree angle, and beat it to flush....