You have always provided sound advice and have the attitude that it is better to do it right the first time and do it right; so, 10-20 years from now, the project does not need to be redone.
Have customer that has a 1950’s house (brick rancher exterior and 4″ block interior that is then furred out and plastered.) Needs new windows because exiting single pane w/o storms are drafty and a maintenance nightmare. Bids are to remove sashes and replace with vinyl units and wrap existing brick mold with alu.
I know that this is the least expensive, good looking (if you do not look too close) and will last a while. I am counseling to remove sashes and window unit frames by cutting around the permiter of the unit on the other side of the vertical/top stops and sill so the interior trim is not disturbed; pull this out; get an Andersen wood clad unit; and slide it in against a left/right/top alu filler so there is a maintenance free brick-to-brick surround and quality window unit.
I know the Andersen unit with interior mutins and screen run $330-350, what would the labor/overhead/profit be for you to remove existing; build install the surround; install the Andersen unit and clean up — no interior painting caulk interior/exterior as necessary and stuff F/G insulation where possible???? All work is between 4 to 8 feet off ground. I did a similar job solo a few years back – 34 units — could do 2 openings in a 6 hour period.
tks Mike — all the best Dudley
Replies
first... there are a lot of guys here who will have more brick install experience than me.. most of our work is woodframe / wood siding
i did a brick house in N.Providence couple years back.. replaced all the first floor windows..
we sawzalled the stee frame casment , single glazed windows out...
installed a pt frame within the brick R.O...
. slid the Andersen units in and fastened to the pt frame
( which basically gave us 1 1/2" all around )
the andersen sill sat on the brick sloping sill..
the interior casing remained .. we used some extension jambs to finish inside
and a 1x2 on the outside to cover the nailing flange...
i think we got about $1200 per unit if i remember right.. based on price of job / #of units... i think there were about 10 windows
my main thought .... you can plan your way to the best installation for that particular application.. find the Andersen product and spec that will make your job easier & better..
the guy across the street in a similar brick house, hired us to replace his 5x7 picture window a month later
true brick house installs are difficult to say the least... which is why most of them wind up with vinyl replacement windows
Tks Mike --- appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge. Your cost estimate tracks with what I need too.
Dudley,
Just a thought..can you use Marvin Tilt-Pacs instead?? This way you can leave the existing window frame in place...
Mike
I have looked at those and want to get to a maint free fenstration -- no scraping and painting every 6-7 years and did not want to do the alu over the brick mold etc. Wanted alum wraped framing and the unit slid in. Pricewise the Tilt Pac is good from a first time cost but not life cycle cost