Ok,
I’ve not istalled a bunch, but every time I do………………….
No matter how they are attached I use a small amount of high quality caulk between the top and the backsplash. Enough so that when they are joined a small amount squeezes out and can be tooled/wiped down until just a very small, almost invisible bead is there to keep water and such out.
But in the house I’m in now? Not a thing between backsplash and top.
The faucet in my kids’ bathroom leak just a little bit when open, but ran right off the vanity top and under the backsplash. Now the top needs replaced.
Looked at all my counter tops and vanities. Nothing?
Asked the neighbors on either side. SAme thing.
SO I gotta ask. How do YOU join them? What’s the acceptable standard?
Replies
I've done scores of them, all with Phenoseal. Never had a callback or issue come up.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
And ya know,
This place was built by one of the more reputable Lehigh Valley builders.
One who's currently hawking homes in excess of $600K just on the other side of Rt 100.
I was installing for Century Kitchen and Bath, most of our installs were down in Lower Bucks and Montgomery, so don't come looking for me..LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Just because he's the worlds best builder, doesn't mean he's standing there watching the installers, or even knowing what they're doing. Exp. when one says to the other " just slap it in, it's already beer thirty and they got a cold one waiting at the TT bar for me. A small tooled bead of clear silicone will eliminate water getting under. And if the water is running right away in that direction , maybe the counter isn't even level to begin with.
Roger
I've already siliconed all the tops to avoid any future problem.
It is however as sad indicator that a whole street (Yup, turns out all the neighbors were done the same) could be done the same and noone caught on.
I know that any builder I ever worked for, or shop I subbed from with the exception of one would have caught it.
I have done them forever as you explain. I'll caulk the back edge of the top b/4 running a bead along the base of where the backsplash will sit, expecting and tooling to a very fine bead, the caulk that oozes out. Further, any sink cutout I seal with a good quality caulk all around the cutout (the exposed pb) in addition to setting the sink in a bed of caulk.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Did some cabinets and laminate tops as a volunteer for Habitat, Cut the hole so the plumber could set his sink and watched as he installed it with no caulk or putty whatsoever. Asked him about it, He said "nope, we dont use anything"
That plumber doesn't work on my jobs.
Eventho that sink gets clamped down (if ss) I'd be that top would swell up like a poisonous toad some day in the near future.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Calvin
I agree with you
Things like this makes it obvious the tradesman's background must be mostly new construction and not remodeling. If he had seen some of the damage that can happen, maybe he would know to do a better job with sealing
Things like this makes it obvious the tradesman's background must be mostly new construction and not remodeling. If he had seen some of the damage that can happen, maybe he would know to do a better job with sealing
I'm not sure that that's always the case.
In my time working as a tradesman I've often seen guys on both sides of the fence who were just never taught any better.
Most often, it's about speed or cost cutting.
As I mentioned to Sphere earlier, this house was built by one of the more reputable builders in my area. Ironically, when I had my own business I bid work for him but was never both cheap and fast enough at the same time.
For short splashes, phenoseal, same as Duane--no problems.
Now, given my druthers, I prefer to bend the splash in one go with the countertop, which avoids the issue entire, except in the joints.
One sees this sort of thing in kitchens, but it's a slick install in bathrooms, too.
Well,
I think I'm gonna end up replacing all of the vanity tops in the house.
Probably not Formica.
I think I'm gonna end up replacing all of the vanity tops in the house
Let me hope with a cultured product rather than some expedient like post-form.
Not that lmainate and a good substrate cannot make a good vanity top, only that it can take a bit more effort.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Absolutely with some form of sold surface.
Not sure which one yet but there seem to be several cost effective options out there.
First order of business is to get me a new toy first.
Could you elaborate on how you bend the backsplash in one go? Do you use heat? or a bending jig or what? I've seen premade countertops with the integral backsplash everywhere but didn't know you could do it in the field or shop or wherever.
Heat gun very cautiously.
I know installers who will bend glued laminate, but I never was that bold.
For kitchens, with full-height, it's really nice if the installers left you a bit of a gap. I've used a slotting blade to make a gap, too. But, better than that, is to not have the uppers in place.
Either way, sometimes it's easier to let the laminate find its own bend point and trim to suit. At least for me, not that I've installed all that much laminate.
It's a really good idea to set side splashes first, then bend in. Set the top edge, then give the sheet as much bend as it can stand (very much a "by feel" operation). Then bring the heat gun in and heat the spot where the bend needs to be. obviously, keep the heat moving, don't stick to any one point for any length of time, or you can melt the laminate (not a good thing).
A bit of 2x2 canbe handy to press the bend in--most have a radiused edge, which is good. Do not try and use a level, especially a metal or metal-edged one, it can actually cut the softened laminate (yes, I learned this the hard way, and with contact cement in place to make it a lasting impression<sigh>).Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I would also like to know how carps. can make their own 'postformed' tops.
Edit: Thanks, Cap'nMac.
Edited 11/25/2008 3:28 pm by kenhill3
Same way as the big companies do.
Find a nice roomy space, set out long sheet goods, and apply the laminate in equally long segements.
Using a nice, large, round-over on the splash and nosing helps a lot. Having something to make a "cant strip" for the top-splash joint helps too.
Cut the substrate to width, then rip the off cuts into the nosing and splash, it's middling economical, really.
Put the laminate face down, then heat the bend area (carefully), then give it its 90 degree bend for the splash. The radius around the nosing and the top of the splash can often be bent during gluing.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Doesn't that have to be V32 laminate ( Verticle Grade, 1/32" thick)?
I'd pop it in the vacuum bag myself. With Alipahtic Resin glue, and skip the CC.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Yeah, that would be a good choice.
I was not going to bring up the topic of vac bags if this was "carpenter made" postform, i.e., one or two 8' sections 4-5 times a year, maybe.
I mean, really, I've seen postform made "to order" by my laminate guys, they always could do so far easier than I could. Did not mean I couldn't; or that I never thought of it, or gave it a try durnign the slow times.
Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)