Probably a stupid question but… I am putting formica on a MDF counter top. The top is secured with counter sunk screws, Do I need to fill the screw holes before gluing the formica on and if so what should I use ? Appreciate any advise.
Thanks
Clem
Probably a stupid question but… I am putting formica on a MDF counter top. The top is secured with counter sunk screws, Do I need to fill the screw holes before gluing the formica on and if so what should I use ? Appreciate any advise.
Thanks
Clem
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Replies
I have seen holes and untouched seams telegraph through laminate.
I would fill with Durhams rock hard water putty. This I've used on substrate for a long time. Mix stiff, let dry completely and sand w/belt sander. CAUTION: This product nor Durabond gets hard enough for a bearingless trimming bit to pass over w/o digging in. If you repair the edge of your buildup, handwork there would be wise.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
clem
Fill them with bondo, you can machine it if need be.
Dries in a few minutes and sand flush.
Doug
I like Durhams, but it takes a considerably long time to dry...overnight is best for any depth. Ergo, Bondo is a great choice, as long as you get it out of the mixing container in time...
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Doug,
Thanks for the info! On my way to the auto store.
Bondo is best. The more hardener you use the faster it sets up. Use a single edge razor to slice off the extra material just when it is hard enough to cut but too soft to sand. This will limit the amount of sanding required later. Be careful when sanding. MDF is much softer than Bondo and will sand away quickly if not noted.
I would still attach the CT from the underside instead of from above. Use short screws and a couple of dabs of adhesive caulk like Phenoseal.
This will make the installation process, especially the laminating, much easier. Working with contact adhesive isn't easy in confined spaces.
Also, as others have stated, when you change the CT in the future you will need to find all screws under the laminate and carve away the Bondo (ugh) before you relaminate or remove it. By screwing from below you will be able to unattach it in minutes (a putty knife will cut the dabs of caulk) and do all the messy work in another space.
F.
The top is secured with counter sunk screws
Any particular reason why you did it this way? Not that it's going to happen but what if you want to change the top?
I'm thinking he'd cuss and moan like all of us that have to change out those tops. Also in this class are the lipped over tops with a bazillion nails down into the frame. Sharp nails at that.
Thanks for the bondo tip. Never even crossed my mind, as do alot of things.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
The side are MDF also and I wasn't sure if pocket hole screws would be a strong enough joint to secire the top. So basicly the decision was ignorance driven. Believe me next time I'll stop here on my way to the lumber store :)
Clem
A question about economics. I can go around to a near-by counter fabricator and buy Formica or Wilson counter tops post-formed in any kind of configuration (I'm putting one on today with a double rolled front edge, back-splash, two 22.5º mitres, and end treatments all at roughly US$8.00/foot). They can also do wood edges (or just prep them for my own edging), custom sizes, etc. What's the attaction of making your own counter top ?
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
biggest attraction to a laminated to suit top over postform, is that any configuration is posible and up to 5 by 12 foot top can be done with no seamscaulking is not a piece of trim
The fabricators get the same sheet goods as we can, probably better if it comes to that, so they can make any size we can..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Phill,
I would have preferred a prefab double rolled top but due to time constraints I didn't want to wait for a special order. This is a small project I'm making for our work breakroom with two small simple tops divided by a display case. Although small I have gained a lot of experience and also learned a lot from everyone here.
thanks
Clem
Wel, Clem, As a transplant to Oregon from Nevada where postformed tops ruled, I was totally surprised to find that counter tops here are generally installed by floor guys. Probably a throughback to vinyl. Most everyone here does the build-on-site tops but they nail the particlce board (not MDF) to the cabinets with 1 1/2" nails. Fast and no filler required! Sometimes I do this and sometimes I prefab the top in my shop and install on site with cleats and screws from below. You'll be sorry when you get to Heaven and hear the complaints from the guys who had to follow you with the next remodel. Avon.
Avon,
If I have to listen to others complain that left the earth after me then I probably didn't go to heaven.:)
Clem, When I said that that about Heaven I knew you would correct me. You're right! There won't be complainers there. I just didn't want to assume you would be somewhere else. See you in Heaven. We'll laugh about life and our mistakes. I'll have lots to tell! PTL Alan.
as faras the next guy to come along and removing the top..he is screwing into MDF sides..I could bet with certainty, it will pop right off with a good yank, or a shot with a 2x4 block and a hammer..it's the screwed and glued cleats that really give ya a fit..
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Clem, how thick is your ct 3/4" or 1-1/5" ? If it's just 3/4 mdf you'llo have problems. See if your local lib has Herrick Kimbals "Making plastic laminate countertops"
Mike
remove the mdf and fabricate a blank off site and then laminate
1; cut and fit the blank including all scribing and accurately mark any joints in the particle board
2; in the shop carefully join the pb pieces together to create a one piece blank using biscuits and drawbolts
3; laminate
4; install
any flaw in the substrate will show through laminate including poor joints and filled screwholes, i join sheets of particle board using a router to square the edges and bisuits and drawbolts to hold the joint together i do not recommend laminating over filled screw holes, they will sho through
caulking is not a piece of trim
Thanks for the advice Steve however I'll have to wait to use it on my next project. This was kind of a rush project for work so everything was full speed ahead. Again I apprecaite all the advice from you and all the others after I kind of painted myself in a corner. Next time I'll ask first before cutting once.
Clem