Fellow framers….any of you guys use routers for window cutouts in your sheathing? Seems to me that snapping lines and cutting is a place where we could become a little more efficient, so I’m thinking of introducing a router to the fellas. Also, with more and more oval, half rounds, elipses showing up on the plans I thought a router would be perfect.
Need a little advice, however. I’ve got a couple of routers in my shop that I use mainly for trim profiles around the house and joinery on some simple “furniture for fun” projects. These are only 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 HP, I’m thinking I’ll probably need something a little more substantial for hogging out all that 1/2″. Is this true, what do you guys use? Any prefered brands/models?
What about bits? Obviously a flush trimmer for most window openings, but also a straight cutter for ovals and what not? 1/2″ shank probably? What about styles and brands? Double or triple flutes? How do they hold up with pine, fir, and OSB? What do you figure as a monthly cost in bits? Do your guys ‘f’ up and run into nails at all?
All your experience and help is much appreciated. Thanks DP
Replies
I've got a 3 1/4 hp Porter Cable with a single flute flush cutting bit(less heat) We like it beacuse it's fast and tough to make a mistake on most window and doors. we hold off nailing around the openings that need to be trimmed until they are done and then it is the responsibility of the router operator to have a gun with him and make sure that each opening is properly nailed. We got funny looks from other framing crews and some builders but once they see what a nice job it does at that speed, they generally come around.
good luck
Dieselpig, your in Natick right? Nice area, spent some time driving around looking at houses with the folks, both new and used... Maybe I saw some of your handy work:)
Anyway....
Seems to me that snapping lines and cutting is a place where we could become a little more efficient
Why are you snaping lines and cutting from the outside???? Recip saw from the inside works good. Good aggressive blade on orbital makes fast work of it, for me anyway
I do the same thing, a recip saw and an aggresive blade from the inside. I've gone to an 18 volt cordless recip saw and it just makes it that much easier.
Didn't I read in FHB one month about a guy that uses a small chainsaw for window cutouts from the inside?
On the router bits, I don't know if this has been said or not: Use the smallest diameter bit you can. 1/2" is good, 1/4" is betterSteelkilt Lives!
I use 1 1/2 hp Bosch w/ a staggertooth bit. Bosch # 85278M. It will plunge cut.
OSB's and like I cut w/ a down spiral panel bit w/ a thru cutter. Bosch # 85185.
The down spiral does a nice clean job. You might be happiest w/ this bit and it will take alot of abuse. The HSS seems to out last the carbide.
I lke the nail latter that bigdog uses.
We use a PC 690 d-handle, 2 flute flush cutter 1/2" shank. HD sells them for $12 and they last a few houses. Nails are the enemy.....they are what kill them every time. I like the smaller lighter router, because we often have to cut out "on the wall".
I use an electric chainsaw from the inside. Its fast.
Tim Mooney
We use a 3 1/4HP Hitachi router to cut the window openings. It is a very fast way to do it. It gives the opening a clean look. I've tried the recip saw and it just wasn't fast enough for me. I've tried the chainsaw, but if your window is tall, then you have to stand on something and I don't think that's very safe.
I think it's best to router out the openings. It's fast because the wall is on the ground, no dust in the eyes, the opening looks like it was perfectly cut. A recip saw and chainsaw don't look "professional" to me because it's difficult to cut straight.
We use Bosch router bits because they seem tough. We mostly use OSB and we change a bit about every 2 houses (200sq to 3000sp). After having used a router, I woudn't use anything else.
When our router dies, I'm going to get the 3 1/4 HP Bosch.
Dieselpig,
I use a ryobi, Im not sure what model but it goes for about $60 at Home Cheapo. My thinking is I don't care if a cheap router gets damaged on site. I've gone through 2 of them in the last 4 years. A flush cut bit will usually last for one job.
routers are great. However as a word of advice **stick with 1/2 inch shanks** The reasoning is that when the bit becomes somewhat dull youll begin to force the router (or a novice will force the router regardless) and this extra pressure might and will create undo stress on the router bit shank. If it breaks youre projectile will make some bullets envious.
They do make bits that trim flush that dont require a bearing. This will probably suit you as the glues in osb or plywood might collect on the bearing and freeze it up. Window cut outs arent trim carpentry so the HSS would suffice and be cheaper since the glues will wear out your bits quicker then solid wood.
started useing a router for window and door cutouts once, and put the dang thing back in the truck before it got into someones hands to be used on everything, like trimming off subfloor overhangs,stairwells, etc. and before someone pushed it the wrong way, and climb cut, fly-out-of-hands, hurt somone or somthing. Love it for round brick forms, and the like.
Diesel,
My boss claims cutting rips and filler pieces is quicker, but I disagree. I used my 1 1/2 HP PC fixed base with a cheapo 1/2 flush cut bearing bit to cut T-111 for my door on my shed; it seemed a lot easier, if not a bit messier (wood chips or saw dust?). I've tried using a recip saw but the cuts are just too messy. If it were my crew I'd use the router, but...