I am extending a soffit in a finished room to the wall across from it to form a new ceiling and would like to know if I can install the 2x framing required to do so directly on the drywall or do I have to demo the drywall down to the studs and frame directly to them. Framing is only going to support a 5/8″ drywall ceiling of approximately 5′ x 10′ with a 2′ x 8′ cutout for a pair of troffer-style florescent light fixtures weighing approximately 25 lbs each.
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If I understand you right, you are framing from a dropped soffit, across the room to the opposite wall (lowering the ceiling). I would strip the soffit to see how it's put together, deciding then on whether to use it or forget that connection and run new "joists" wall to wall. Soffits are meant to hold board at that location, often framed goofy with whatever is lying around. At the minimum, you should strip the bottom drywall and run new, not seaming at the soffit connection.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Yes, I am lowering the ceiling and I intend to strip the soffit and run new drywall, not splice. If I find I need to run new 'joists' wall to wall, I'm thinking I'd frame perimeter of room with 2x material and then nail 'joists' to the two ledgers on opposite walls? Would this be ok to nail perimeter nailers/ledgers directly to drywall (sandwiching drywall between new perimeter material and existing wall studs)?
You'd get a more positive connection if you cut back the sheet rock, but I don't think the size you describe is going to be a problem. Matter of fact, I'd do it and wouldn't expect a problem later. Just make sure you use long enough fasteners and hit the target.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
If needed, you could always screw (long 3 1/2" screws) a 2"x crossmember perpendicular to the existing joists at the high point of your coffered ceiling then attach drops which could tie into the side of your new joists or a stiffback attached to the new joists. This could give you some support in the middle so all the weight wouldn't be hanging on your new framing.
Ditto all other advice.
Make sure the nails, screws or lags that hold the ledger to the wall are long enough to pass throught the drywall and fasten into the wall framing. Obviously you will need to find the studs or other framing in the ledger attachment elevation.
If ever there was a time like the present, it is now.
around here, inspectors would either make you leave the existing rock on the walls, or install fireblocking at the level of the new soffit.
They don't want drafts, or fire, to be able to work its way up from the wall cavity into the soffit area, and up into the ceiling.
Somebody's always thinking around here.
Nicely done.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
yeah, well, I learned that one the hard way.LOL
but thanks
Thanks to all who responded to this posting. Your inputs are greatly appreciated...