When remodeling, if I want to install a window in an ext wall, does the double top plate limit me? See, if I need to install a 2×8 or 2×6 header to carry the load above the window span, the new window will be lower than the other windows on that side of the house. If I cut into the double top plate and install the new deeper 2x’s I loose the continuous band of structure (top plate) which ties the house together from side to side.
Yeah, yeah, why not look how the other windows were done and just do that? Well, because the other wall is part of a later addition where a 2×8 was used and there is no top plate because there isn’t a level above, only a roof.
Am I missing a point or making this too difficult? Or it can’t/ shouldn’t be done?
F.
Replies
I am assuming floor above...........can you double up the rim joist over a couple of studs (this is carrying the load now) teco the floor joists if the are perpendicular to the rim joist and the header down (or not) what ever you need?
Eric
Use a steel header instead of wood.
AHA! Maybe a 1"x3 1/2" bar set on the jack stud. Hmmm.... brilliant! Now I have to find out who sells these locally.
Thanks,
F.
a steel header
Or a box beam: use 18 ga channel t & b and 6" 18ga mtl studs on edge, weak sides to the inside. Bad part there is having to still screw on some lumber on the bottom to make the window (and especially the trim) installation easier.
Original poster should check on "engineered" headers (LVL, & the like). Which might be just the ticket.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Use a pair of LVL's. This happens to me in older homes when we do additions. Steel may be over kill for a single double hung or casement. What is the width of your window and whats above it?
Firebird and Erik R-
The wall is 15' long. The window is 4' wide. There isnt a level above, so therefore no rim/ band joist.If there was then cutting through the double top plate wouldn't be an issue. Aside from the plywood sheathing there is no other element tying the side walls together.
LVL idea would take the load but I am trying to max out the header height at 5 1/2". The double top plate takes up 3 of these inches. I really only have 2 1/2" more to get my structure. Maybe 3/4" CDX ply and another fir 2x4 will be enough to add to the existing double 2x4s to acheive enough structure. I dunno.
F
I would cut out the bottom of the two plates, leave the top one intact and get a 4" deep header. This should be plenty with a 4' window.
I wasn't sure though if one 2x was enough to maintain wall integrety.
I can either cut down a 2 x 6 to a full 4" and then sandwich a 1/2" ply
OR
cut down a 9 1/4" LVL that I was saving "just in case." Perfect!
Either of these will give me the 5 1/2" I need.
Hmmmm.... Is one enough though?...........
F.
I'm using a piece of 2" x 3" x 1/4" x 5' steel tubing for the bumper on my truck that would be perfect for your situation.
Iffin it turns up missing, I'll know where to look (|:>)
Samt
You still haven't said what the load above is.
Rafters and ceiling joists on that wall or non-bearing, as in gable end.
You can do away with the continuous top plates and header all the way up. To maintain what would normally be the function of the top plate(s), tying the wall, you would use a Simpson strap, MSTC##. A couple of MSTC28's, one on each side, tying the ends of the header to the cut ends of your top plates or one MSTC78 which would more than double the tension load factor of the 28's.
A double 2x6 on a single jack each side should be plenty for 4 feet.
Very Cool!
Exactly, actually more than, what I was looking for. You're the best! Now I have something to do tomorrow.
The current load above is a shed roof which caps the Kitchen. Thank you fror your help.
F.
Not knowing 100% of your situation. I wouldn't cut the plate out and 2-1/2'' is not much of a header on a 4' opening. Do rafters or ceiling joists sit on this plate?
I'd cut out one or both of the plates. It's not like the house is going to split in two.......remember, you have a sheathed roof right above this.
A double (with ply) or triple (if you can) header should be ok to carry the roof and ceiling.
EricEvery once in a while, something goes right!
Your LVL supplier should be able to analyze an LVL which has been ripped down to 5.5", or whatever dimension.I'm afraid I can't use a mule. I have several hundred up on Capitol Hill." [Ronald Regan refusing a gift of a mule]
A flitch plate will solve the problem. An architect, engineer or at least someone with proper education can tell you what thickness and width you need. Flitch plate is a flat piece of steel that will be sandwiched between header and is through bolted.
mike
I think that there have been the greatest number of different suggestions on this thread that I've seen in a while.............and no one got in an argument!
Many ways to skin a cat!
EricEvery once in a while, something goes right!
Don't know if it would work for you but I have seen metal header hangers for retrofits in old houses where there is no room for a jack stud, they are structurally rated. Maybe a pair of those would compensate for a 'shallower' dimensional header you would use keeping both top plates.
Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
(2) Iron Angles and some ripped down 2Xs -like a brick lintel. Get the fattest stuff available and max out the leg length to your available opening. OR, run one or both of the angles on the outside of the header assembly and overlap the outside faces of your top plates (you might end up using an L4-5x1 1/2 -very hefty).