FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Framing Ext.Walls w/ Headers

Frankie | Posted in Construction Techniques on July 1, 2004 10:07am

When remodeling, if I want to install a window in an ext wall, does the double top plate limit me? See, if I need to install a 2×8 or 2×6 header to carry the load above the window span, the new window will be lower than the other windows on that side of the house. If I cut into the double top plate and install the new deeper 2x’s I loose the continuous band of structure (top plate) which ties the house together from side to side.

Yeah, yeah, why not look how the other windows were done and just do that? Well, because the other wall is part of a later addition where a 2×8 was used and there is no top plate because there isn’t a level above, only a roof.

Am I missing a point or making this too difficult? Or it can’t/ shouldn’t be done?

F.

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. User avater
    EricPaulson | Jul 01, 2004 10:49pm | #1

    I am assuming floor above...........can you double up the rim joist over a couple of studs (this is carrying the load now) teco the floor joists if the are perpendicular to the rim joist and the header down (or not) what ever you need?

    Eric

    Every once in a while, something goes right!
  2. UncleDunc | Jul 01, 2004 11:59pm | #2

    Use a steel header instead of wood.

    1. Frankie | Jul 02, 2004 12:49am | #4

      AHA! Maybe a 1"x3 1/2" bar set on the jack stud. Hmmm.... brilliant! Now I have to find out who sells these locally.

      Thanks,

      F.

    2. User avater
      CapnMac | Jul 02, 2004 12:51am | #5

      a steel header

      Or a box beam: use 18 ga channel t & b and 6" 18ga mtl studs on edge, weak sides to the inside.  Bad part there is having to still screw on some lumber on the bottom to make the window (and especially the trim) installation easier.

      Original poster should check on "engineered" headers (LVL, & the like).  Which might be just the ticket.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

  3. ThaButcha | Jul 02, 2004 12:48am | #3

    Use a pair of LVL's. This happens to me in older homes when we do additions. Steel may be over kill for a single double hung or casement. What is the width of your window and whats above it?

    1. Frankie | Jul 02, 2004 12:58am | #6

      Firebird and Erik R-

      The wall is 15' long. The window is 4' wide. There isnt a level above, so therefore no rim/ band joist.If there was then cutting through the double top plate wouldn't be an issue. Aside from the plywood sheathing there is no other element tying the side walls together.

      LVL idea would take the load but I am trying to max out the header height at 5 1/2". The double top plate takes up 3 of these inches. I really only have 2 1/2" more to get my structure. Maybe 3/4" CDX ply and another fir 2x4 will be enough to add to the existing double 2x4s to acheive enough structure. I dunno.

      F

      1. Schelling | Jul 02, 2004 02:19am | #7

        I would cut out the bottom of the two plates, leave the top one intact and get a 4" deep header. This should be plenty with a 4' window.

        1. Frankie | Jul 02, 2004 03:15am | #10

          I wasn't sure though if one 2x was enough to maintain wall integrety.

          I can either cut down a 2 x 6 to a full 4" and then sandwich a 1/2" ply

          OR

          cut down a 9 1/4" LVL that I was saving "just in case." Perfect!

          Either of these will give me the 5 1/2" I need.

          Hmmmm.... Is one enough though?...........

          F.

          1. User avater
            SamT | Jul 02, 2004 04:03am | #11

            I'm using a piece of 2" x 3" x 1/4" x 5' steel tubing for the bumper on my truck that would be perfect for your situation.

            Iffin it turns up missing, I'll know where to look (|:>)

            Samt

            Arguing with a Breaktimer is like mud-wrestling a pig -- Sooner or later you find out the pig loves it. Andy Engel

          2. RalphWicklund | Jul 02, 2004 05:12am | #13

            You still haven't said what the load above is.

            Rafters and ceiling joists on that wall or non-bearing, as in gable end.

            You can do away with the continuous top plates and header all the way up. To maintain what would normally be the function of the top plate(s), tying the wall, you would use a Simpson strap, MSTC##. A couple of MSTC28's, one on each side, tying the ends of the header to the cut ends of your top plates or one MSTC78 which would more than double the tension load factor of the 28's.

            A double 2x6 on a single jack each side should be plenty for 4 feet.

          3. Frankie | Jul 02, 2004 06:05am | #14

            Very Cool!

            Exactly, actually more than, what I was looking for. You're the best! Now I have something to do tomorrow.

            The current load above is a shed roof which caps the Kitchen. Thank you fror your help.

            F.

      2. ThaButcha | Jul 02, 2004 02:23am | #8

        Not knowing 100% of your situation. I wouldn't cut the plate out and 2-1/2'' is not much of a header on a 4' opening. Do rafters or ceiling joists sit on this plate?

      3. User avater
        EricPaulson | Jul 02, 2004 03:09am | #9

        I'd cut out one or both of the plates. It's not like the house is going to split in two.......remember, you have a sheathed roof right above this.

        A double (with ply) or triple (if you can) header should be ok to carry the roof and ceiling.

        EricEvery once in a while, something goes right!

      4. User avater
        BossHog | Jul 02, 2004 02:07pm | #15

        Your LVL supplier should be able to analyze an LVL which has been ripped down to 5.5", or whatever dimension.I'm afraid I can't use a mule. I have several hundred up on Capitol Hill." [Ronald Regan refusing a gift of a mule]

      5. mike4244 | Jul 03, 2004 02:57am | #17

        A flitch plate will solve the problem. An architect, engineer or at least someone with proper education can tell you what thickness and width you need. Flitch plate is a flat piece of steel that will be sandwiched between header and is through bolted.

        mike

        1. User avater
          EricPaulson | Jul 03, 2004 03:15am | #18

          I think that there have been the greatest number of different suggestions on this thread that I've seen in a while.............and no one got in an argument!

          Many ways to skin a cat!

          EricEvery once in a while, something goes right!

  4. User avater
    gdcarpenter | Jul 02, 2004 05:08am | #12

    Don't know if it would work for you but I have seen metal header hangers for retrofits in old houses where there is no room for a jack stud, they are structurally rated.  Maybe a pair of those would compensate for a 'shallower' dimensional header you would use keeping both top plates.

    Let's not confuse the issue with facts!

  5. clevispin | Jul 03, 2004 01:34am | #16

    (2) Iron Angles and some ripped down 2Xs -like a brick lintel.  Get the fattest stuff available and max out the leg length to your available opening.  OR, run one or both of the angles on the outside of the header assembly and overlap the outside faces of your top plates (you might end up using an L4-5x1 1/2 -very hefty).

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

FHB Podcast Segment: Finding Hazardous Materials in a Fixer-Upper

Look closely at these common locations for hazardous materials in older homes.

Featured Video

SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than Before

The 10-in. Jobsite Saw PRO has a wider table, a new dust-control port, and a more versatile fence, along with the same reliable safety mechanism included in all SawStop tablesaws.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 693: Old-House Hazards, Building Larsen Trusses, AI in Construction
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Finding Hazardous Materials in a Fixer-Upper
  • A Classic Paint Sprayer Gets a Thoughtful Refresh
  • Podcast Episode 692: Introduction to Trade Work, Embodied Carbon, and Envelope Improvements

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2025
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data