Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 12, 1999 12:47am | #1

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   Jeff,

   I've given some thought to this myself. FHB had a really good article sometime in the last year or so about this but darned if I can lay my hands on it right now. Maybe someone else can help with that.

   The article was about building these walls in high wind areas and as I recall they did balloon up to eliminate the hinge. Dont recall how they approached it but it seems to me that would necessitate blocking for your shear panels. Hope this helps.

   JonC

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 12, 1999 12:49am | #2

   *Jeff-I have done it both ways. If the window does not interfere with the top plate then I would go with a conventional top plate to tie the two opposing walls together. If the window does interfere then I would go with studs from bottom plate to rafter. If you do use a top plate then I would stagger the sheathing so that every other sheet bridges half way on either side of the top plate.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 12, 1999 01:50am | #3

   *scissor truss or stick built roof?inspection? you might want to get him involved since he'll pass/fail it. you might have to dbl up the floor to roof studs , block back to another wall if this is an addition, fire stops,and whatever else they might require. i'm going on memory, what there is of it, so there probably is more to think about. best of luck to ya.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 12, 1999 10:24am | #4

   *Jeff I would recommend going floor to top of rafter, this way you eliminate the hinge and you only have to frame one wall.To tie the corners of your flat and balloon walls together what I use is a piece of FHA strap about 6 to 12 inches long, nailed at the upper plate line of the flat wall and bent to wrap around the end stud of your balloon wall. Also I make sure to run the sheathing so that it overlaps the end of the flat wall and ties to the balloon wall with at least a 16 inch section.GOOD LUCK JIM at GREAT WHITE

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 12, 1999 04:03pm | #5

   *Jeff,Again the question Where are you? I have seen walls like this give twice. One during Hugo and one during Floyd. If it were mine I would use steel reinforcement. A 2x6 wall you could lay a 1/4 plate between the upper would plate. If there is no window use a steel I-beam up the center. The latter is what the engineers came up with both times to fix the house.Rick Tuk

2. 
   Tom_Laing | Nov 12, 1999 11:17pm | #6

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   Jeff,
   Not sure where you're located, or what codes you might fall under. The UBC, used most places in the West requires that studs extend, full length, between points of lateral bearing (ie: floor to ceiling; floor to roof, etc.). This applies only in areas that are considered "high wind.". If this doesn't apply to you, you're on your own, or at the mercy of an engineer or local inspector to determine how to do it.

   Tom Laing

3. 
   Guest_ | Nov 13, 1999 07:26am | #7

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   Jeff,

   It seems almost every house I frame has this condition. whether it be a truss roof or conventioally framed. Have done two things that have worked fine in Colorado. Run double Micro-Lam king studs, floor to ceiling about a 13 in from each end. Two; frame with double top plates at your wall height and place a steel I beam (5 12" wide X 5 12" deep)across the wall lenghth so that it strattles the wall. Build your rake wall on top of this beam. Everything, sheathing and drywall, can run over this beam. You have to rip down your top plates and the top and bottom end of the studs to fit inside the I-beam. Plus get a crane to lift that sucker up there after you stand the wall.

   With a truss roof it is very important to properly sheath and brace it per the manufactuer. The bracing must run to the exterior wall or gable end truss.

   Only done the steel once, wall was plenty stiff and the engineer was impressed but it ain't a cheap way to build. The micro studs work great and being a carpenter I like the fact that it's a wood product.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 16, 1999 10:33pm | #8

   *I use full length studs. This is a good use fot engineered lumber such as finger jointed studs or Timberstrand studs if you have trouble getting straight stock. The last wall like that I did was 22 feet to the top and I used TJIs for the studs.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 20, 1999 12:02am | #9

   *Jeff, I ran into a similar situation while framing my house. I have a scissor truss roof in the master b.r. My gable end is a laoded truss, not just the standard siding hanger. I have 3 windows ganged together in the wall, with a 4ft. shear panel on each end. Since the truss carries the load to the other 2 walls, this is not really a bearing wall. I just shot a single plate to the bottom chords, and balloon framed one stud at a time, adding blocking at 8' for the shear panels. Run the shear panels all the way up the gable end, or hold the truss out to match your sheathing and use some A35's to tie the truss to the shear panels. It may sound a little slow on paper, but total time framing was only about an hour for me, so a real guy could probably do it in half that. I'm a fireman, not a framer, so if I get flamed here I guess I'll just have to take it, but the inspector told me it looked great to him....... hope this helps.

4. 
   Michael_Race | Nov 20, 1999 04:08am | #10

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   I'm a framing contractor on Cape Cod and this occurs fairly
   regularly. LVLs floor to ceiling if you have the depth of
   wall or 1 1/2" x 3 " x 1/4" channel bolted to the king studs
   works well. Notch king studs so they run to the top of the
   rafter to provide good connection. If you're worried about
   the shear integrity glue the sheathing and stagger the joints.

5. 
   Jeff_Coady | Jan 04, 2000 11:36pm | #11

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   I am framing a gable end wall for a vaulted ceiling room. Should the gable end studs be full length from floor to rafter (12 ft) or should it be framed in the standard method with double top plate on wall and gable studs cut to fit between plate and end rafter. The standard method provides a top plate to tie in shear wall forces. However it also creates a hinge joint because the ceiling does not provide a diaphram to reinforce it (because it is vaulted). Also if large window is placed in the gable wall the top plate my be interupted anyway. Any suggestions?