Framing Kitchen ceiling below beams
Conditions – existing ‘heavy timber’ floor above (5 x 7s +/- 21″ o.c.) – need to frame for new smooth-plane ceiling below beams. Framing clearance from u.s. of beams to top of ceiling membrane = +/- 3 1/2″
Would you:
(1) run a grid of 2 x 4s 16″ o.c. against the direction of the beams (and if so, how to ‘hang’ from beams
or
(2) sister dropped 2 x 8s alongside beams (same direction)
The need to create a ‘plenum’ is not too relevant. Could also cross-strap 2 x 4s flat …
Jeff
Replies
Jeff,
I would be thinking about using hat track or resilient channel.
Maybe attach this to the beams w scraps of 2x material as needed,,,,like at every intersection.
There may even be a slicker way to suspend the channel, as I think this situation is common in commercial work, where, what is commonly a "suspended" acoustic type ceiling is replaced w a drywall ceiling.
Bet someone comes along that has done this a million times.
Best of luck, Harry
It's residential ... and there will be wood-framed soffits, so I think I'd like to stick with wood.
Jeff
Any other thoughts?Jeff
Add nailers (ceiling joists) parallel to the beams-picking up a layout that will work for your application. Keep them on the same plane if the beams are level and in plane with each other.
or,
go opposite the beams, for shorter span and lesser framing.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
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2x4s would be pretty wavy without a lot of bracing, and it's a pity to throw all of that wood at it to get the straightness that 2x8s would give.
The easiest and flattest system installs and looks almost exactly like a drop ceiling, but then drywall is screwed to the bottom of it. Check with a commercial supplier.
You can add blocking anywhere you need it before you board it, and I can't see any reason it wouldn't work with wood soffits.
If you mean wood-FRAMED soffits, consider using metal, or wood-metal hybrid soffits. I like the latter a lot:
Lengths of 1 1/2" metal angle are attached to the wall and ceiling, vertical 2x4 blocks are screwed to the ceiling angle, another angle is screwed to these blocks to set the bottom-front edge of the soffit, and then horizontal blocks are added going back to the wall.
Much crisper and straighter than all-wood soffits, and faster, too, but it still has plenty of solid wood to hang cabinets from.
One reason it's straighter is that if you're building to a wavy wall or ceiling, you can straighten that front corner independently:
The angle doesn't need to be tight to the ENDS of the blocks, just to the sides, so just spring-clamp the angle in place until you've sighted/strung it, then screw it in place.
Aitchkay
"wood-metal hybrid soffits. "
Do you have a specific manufacturer in mind?Jeff
US Gypsum makes that ceiling system, and also the metal angle that I use for soffits. I don't know how common my hybrid soffit system is, and I doubt it's in their book, but it works really well for me.http://www.usg.com:80/resources/handbooks/ViewSection.do?bookId=1&chapterNum=2§ionNum=6AitchKay
#2 with 2x6s and strapping crosswise under that would be fastest. Only go to the 2x8 if you need to strengthen the existing
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Edited 12/28/2008 12:05 pm ET by Piffin
32??Jeff
Typo
Finger slipped off the shift key as I hit the # for #2 of your choices.
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That's what I thought (#2) although 2 x 4s flat right up against the beams (shimmed cross-strapping) is appealing too.
Jeff
That would be even easier, but I understoof the requirement was to lower 3.5". Maybe you meant maximum. If the elevation can go upo. just use strapping on the existing at 16" oc. it spans 24" oc just fine even with insulation and SR load.
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whatever you do make it easy for the guy following you to pull it all down and reexpose the beams.
We are shellacing them first ;o)Jeff
This is what I use in that situation.
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T-grid system from USG. Snaps together like drop ceilin'- you can build bulkheads out of it too._______
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I LIKE it ... actually I've used it before.
Any disadvantages?
Jeff
You have to take lightin' layout into account.(Just make sure no members are in the way)
We usually use old work can lights and put them in after the cabs so they line up perfectly with the cab. doors.
The mains have multiple slots at 16" and 24" w/ an inch either way so you have some wiggle room._______
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I don't use much recessed lighting (hate the stuff) so my main concern woud be support for ceiling boxes rather than 'can' conflicts.
Jeff
You should be good then.
The only other problem I can see is if you're out in he sticks.
Most lumber yards won't know what you're askin' for, but a drywall distributor will._______
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Yeah, that's the system I posted about. Got any shots of your "bulkheads"? -- I assume you mean what I call soffits. Are they as easy as my hybrid system? I know that light wells, etc, are where efficiency grinds to a halt with drop-in ceilings, but I've only used the USG GWB system for flat ceilings. How well does it turn the corner to vertical for soffits?AitchKay
They call them bulkheads around here.
All I could find is one made of 1 5/8" track.
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Thanks, Mike,You can sure get nice, crisp, flat framing with steel, can't you? The thing I like about using angle is how easily you can turn the corner, since the angle accepts framing from both horizontal and vertical.For kitchen soffits, the blocks are so short that twist isn't a problem, so I use up scrap 2x4s (always plenty of them around!) with the angle. I usually don't bring any other metal onsite......Except for basements, where track and studs save your butt with all of the HVAC!AitchKay
Very helpful responses, guys, thank you.
We're not in the 'sticks' ;o)Jeff
I've actually don this exact thing before and I just used 2x4 metal studs 16" oc(edge-wise)with the "2 inch" side screwed right into the beams...I put in wood blocking every 6 or 8 feet for rigidity.. I also used a lasr to determine "perfectlt flat, and shimmed out where I needed.. I think that the nice thing about the metal is that it's darn near as straight as an arrow making the cieling in essence perfect.
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Our drywall subs are quite used to screwing RC to 24-center trusses, to prep for hanging ceiling rock.
It goes up so fast there is no time to discuss it.
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