Any input or advice is greatly appreciated! I have to remove some rotted wood underneath 2 side by side exterior windows constructed on a sill 2×4 that has 2×4 studs. The whole window area measures 2’ft. wide (protruding from house-outward, similar to cantilevered joists- but this house is not framed that way-just pin framed 2×4 attached to ledger on concrete foundation.. ) by x 8’ft long (width of window area). This area that is to be repaired is on 1st floor of house with no basement. The framing lumber that is rotted and must be replaced is actually the bottom 2×4 plate-8’ft long, and the 2×4 horizontal pins underneath, t-111 paneling and some trim.
My main concern is, how can this type of wood framing support the weight bearing on it from two windows and 8’ft long wall extruding from house 2’feet, with the joists not being cantilevered? Is this acceptable? Would a pt ledger attached to foundation wall 2-3ft below finished underside surface, with angle bracing 16″ O.C. attached connecting to underside of bottom plate work or be sufficient?
will this theory work-if the wall being repaired is weight bearing. Bolt a beam to the wall studs of this wall, have a plate on ground and install temp. jacks or studs underneath beam to plate? remove damaged plate with sawzall, jack up slightly, install new plate, install new pins, insulate, t-111 siding, 5/4 trim, prime, paint, caulk. and hope that the caulk holds the whole damn thing together? thank you! chipper email:[email protected]
10-25-2003
Replies
Chipper,
I just finished doing the same repair on a termite damaged sill in my house. My window does not protrude as far as yours, but same idea. I had to replace about 4' in the center of the 8' window. I layed a 2x6 on the ground under the window, and wedged a couple of verticle 2x6's up to another lengthwise 2x6 under the window box. I only cut the studs up about 3", thats all the far up the critters had gotten. Cut out the sill plate, had the Terminex guy out to treat the entire area, then cut new 3" long 2x4 stud fill pieces and sistered on another 2x4 for kicks. This kept me from messing with the sheathing and brick work. To be honest with you, I dont think it would have moved at all, even without the bracing. Heres a couple of pics to compare yours to.
Hope this helps,
Bill
Chipper,
What you probably have is a struture consisting of [2 studs, 2 king studs, 2 trimmer studs, a header, and a sill plate] x 2 (1 set per window).
The window box is attached to the header and the sill plate at top and bottom and the two trimmers on the sides.
The box construction technique keeps everything from bowing out.
Removing the cripple studs under the windows won't effect anything, they are there for DW and siding nailing.
Messing with the 2 (x2) studs or the 2 (x2) king studs, which run from the mudsill plate to the top plate and to the bottom of the header, respectively, can cause you major headaches.
If you have to replace or sister any of these four (x2) pieces, I would build a temporary support under the rafter tails, or under a temp ledger thru bolted to the headers and supported on large feet at ground level.
Alternatively, support the ceiling joists at the wall on the interior with a double 2x12 header and 2 or 3 2x4 Tee'ed studs. If you don't have a concrete floor, use a tripled 2x6 spreader on edge that will span at least 3 floor joists as feet under the tee'ed studs. Cut 'em tight and wedge 'em tighter.
I would not worry a bit about the windows moving during repairs, but I would definately support the structure above the windows thouroughly. Unless it is a gable end wall.
SamT