after reviewing my larry haun framing videos and checking out a couple of local jobs i’m confused with wall stud layout as it pertains from floor to floor and to ceiling joists and rafers. first, is vertical alignment between first floor wall studs and second floor wall studs and/or ceiling joists and rafers required by the irc 2000 code (assuming double top plate and wall heights not exceeding 9′)? it would obviously make for a stronger structure but is it really neccessary/required? the reason for the question is larry’s video suggest laying out studs with a layout stick. this way it is easier to restart your 16″ oc layout when laying out doors and windows, which aren’t usually going to fall on the 16″ oc layout. doing it this way will save some studs but would it be more structurally sound to forgo the layout stick and have everything line up?
thanks,
judsteam
Replies
It is far easier to run sheathing when the framing lines up, and looks more professional. I doubt that strength is an issue.
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With double top plates, vertical alignment of load paths (rafters/trusses over ceiling joists over studs) do not matter in residential housing.
However, having a stud wherever you sheating breaks does.
Edited 7/20/2005 12:36 am ET by Pierre1
All studs in a wall should follow the on-center spacing all the way across the wall. If you restart the spacing after a window/door, I suppose you could piece sheathing on the exterior, but what about the drywall breaks on the interior? I do not want drywall breaking on a window/door stud. I want it to span across the opening. I think that's what you're asking(?).
When I sheath a wall, the ply spans the rim joist, with part of the sheet nailed off on the upper portion of the first floor studs and the other nailed off on the lower portion of the second floor studs.
Ties everything together. My preference. But I use engineered rims/joists/beams, so shrinkage across the rim is not a factor.
Because of that, I prefer to have the upper floor and lower floor wall studs in alignment as well. Works well as most windows are stacked, etc.
To save a stud or five, I do try to have one of the studs on a window or door fall where an "on-center" stud naturally falls. Might have to move something an inch or two, that has never been a problem.
Floor joist and rafters/trusses do not neccessarily have to stack over the studs. I've used all combinations of spacing...exterior wall 24" oc, intertior walls 16" oc, TJIs 19.2" oc, and rafters 16" oc.
To continue the good advice I recommend stacking the studs over the floor joists as well. This gives the most flexibility for mechanical runs (i.e. elctrical, plumbing and HVAC)
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I’ll stack my reply with those who stack their layouts.
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Ditto!
I can't comment on the video but I used to teach layout methods. It's important to be accurate and repeatedly consistent. Exterior layout of 16" or 24" centers is to accommodate the placement of the sheathing. I don't care if the code requires stacked framing and I don't worry about saving a stud or two. It just makes common sense to have everything line up. Mark out the top and bottom plates together. They should be cut to an increment of 16" or 24" depending on the spacing you are using. Using a stick or square to layout spacing is called stepping off, this is a sure way to screw things up. Each little error adds up and by the time you go 40 feet you may be off quite a bit.
Choose one end of the building to start from and use the same end for all your layout. We generally do the long walls first. The sheathing is going to start at one corner so that's where you begin. Blueprints designate the center of doors, windows and partitions, these are the first marks that should be made. You don't want unnecessary marks scratched out and adding confusion to the assembly. Once you have marked the centers, layout the windows, doors and partitions. This is nothing more than marking out the jacks and studs for the rough openings. For example, if the window requires a 36 1/2" rough opening, you measure 18 1/4" from the center mark and make a line, this is the inside edge of the jack. Always make sure the rough opening is between the jacks, or the window won't fit in the hole. Always turn your tape end for end to check that you have measured the same each way from the center mark. I make my center marks with a small arrow and a C. If you square across the center mark it may be confused with a stud mark, so don't do it.
After laying out all the openings and leads, layout the studs. This way you won't already have a stud mark where other framing has to go. The easiest and most mistake proof way to layout the stud centers is to start the first mark at 15 1/4" or 23 1/4". With these measurements, the X will always go on the side of the line in the direction you are measuring. After making the first mark, move your tape to that mark. From this point on, all the marks will either be 16" or 24" for the studs and cripples.
Some will just leave their tape on the corner and mark each stud 3/4" more or 3/4" less than the center spacing. When you run out of tape and have to move it, the rules change. Once you become an experienced layout person, it doesn't matter how you do it but as a beginner, avoid the confusion by moving the tape to your first mark. For window, door and partition leads, I mark both sides of the framing, a double mark. For studs, I use a single line. This clearly differentiates the studs and cripples from the rest of your marks.
I follow the same sequence when assembling the framing. Start with the doors and windows. This way you will have plenty of room to nail the various components and not have a stud six inches from the side of the window header in your way.
Every framing component is laid out from the same starting point whether joists, rafters or walls. The same approach of working the openings first is used. Remember, when laying out the side walls, that the sheathing goes to the outside edge of the corner and your marks start from there, not from the inside of the wall. It's important that chimney openings, plumbing chases, bearing walls and windows line up from floor to floor.
It's not unusual for the studs to be 16" OC, the joists 12" OC and the trusses 24" OC. The framing will line up every time the numbers correspond. Just start from the same point and all will be well.
Sorry about the size and double attachment, I couldn't get the sketch any smaller from my scanner