A while ago someone recommended the Whitney Punch Jr for putting holes in the tongue of (7/8″) metal furring channels. I tried this route and ended up with holes 1/16″ to 0″ from the edge. If I try to get in further, the punch ends up twisting the tongue. I drilled the holes for one room, but that took sufficiently long that I’m asking if there’s some trick I’ve missed to using the punch to make the holes.
On a related note, anyone have experience screwing DW to 18ga furring channels? I’m assuming self-tapping screws won’t make it on their own (they’ll cam out first), so I’m planning on predrilling with 3/32″ cobalt bit….
Replies
What are you using the furring bar for? What are you attaching the furring bar to?
Leveling a ceiling that is pretty uneven, about 11-1/2' long and 5' wide. Goes up to 1-1/2" out of level in one corner. Screwing into 2x6 ceiling joists, planning 2-1/2" #8 deck screws. At the most egregious out-of-level end, glued 5/4 and 1x3 respectively to bottoms of joists to close the gap a bit, and plan 3-1/2" #10 screws there. Using 18ga because I'll be hanging recessed cans on the bars and Marinoware recommended going up a size.This is a bathroom, planning on 20ga channels for bedrooms. Eventually.Edit: I'll be hanging 1/2" sag-resistant DW. One end will have a tiled ceiling (3psf) so I'll make channels 12oc there. Eventually there will be insulation (planning a layer of sprayed foam and then lots and lots of cells).
Edited 3/25/2005 2:44 pm ET by Taylor
If I was doing this I would be using a suspended system for drywall similar to a suspended system for acoustical ceilings. Try tec screws thru the furring bar this should work.
Taylor, the bathroom?
Are you leveling using "hat" channel? and furring that down using wood furring?_ __/
And going across the joists?
Give any thought to using metal studs and fastening to the sides of the joists, dropping them down a bit to level the ceiling?
Not sure exactly what you are doing, but willing to help so you can get that damn thing done. You still married?Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin,Still married. Not sure why. Don't think DW's patience is inexhaustible. Ask me if I still have a job. Barely.Plumbing rough-in redone. Plumber seems to have widened some notches just for the heck of it. Spent a long time reinforcing the floor (remember people were telling me to "just get it done"?). Structural engineer says I saved it from what the carpenter did. Still waiting to hear from Weyrhauser about how badly the carpenter screwed up the TJI installation. Fingers crossed that I don't have to take out TJIs (no kidding, that was their first recommendation).I made a half-hearted attempt to sister steel studs, but it was a bit of a PITA, especially since I had already sistered wood to the joists because of signs of stress on some joists. I have a heat lamp (ic-rated air-tight, so it's a big box) that won't fit in a joist bay if I add steel sisters. The main out-of-level zone is at one end of the room, so I thought it would be easier just to screw up the hat channels with some shims. Besides I don't trust hanging 18ga channels on the flange of a 20ga stud, and 18ga studs require special order, min quantity etc. Finally I can hang 5' DW panels the width of the room instead of 12' panels the length of the room. I may sister steel studs at that out-of-whack end just to simplify shimming....but I'll probably also be putting a joist pocket in there so I can center the shower light.Is the scuttlebutt that people don't trust channels held up by screws installed from below? Or just that shimming is for morons? Shimming does preclude glue, I'll admit that. Are my screw lengths all off? Regarding my DW screw question, I see now that McFeely has square-drive DW screws for 14-20ga studs in their catalogue, not in their on-line store.Got a good laugh out of the Okie-bashing thread. I have yet to see any evidence of competent workmanship on this bathroom. I may be an incompetent newbie myself, but at least I'm trying to learn....
OK well, you are there and you know best what you have to work with. 20 ga studs would hold up drywall no problem. If you don't have the room to make them work and hat channel is all thats left........
You are fastening shims of some sort to the joist bottoms where the channel crosses them. The long screws are so you go through all that shim and into solid joist. Am I there? You may have thought I meant to hang the hat channel off the steel stud, nope.........use the stud instead of the hat. You would fasten that to the side of the joists.......but I digress.
Tappers will go through the hat channel, but for your purposes of fastening channel to joist, predrill and a good ga. screw will do it. I wouldn't think you'd have to mcfeely it, you could used a 10 panhead if it would fit the channel and that'd hold it. Go into the joist 1.5/2 inches I would think, more if you're worried.
The heat thing, that gets mounted to blocking on the joists or with hanger bars, same for can lights if you have them.
The only wt on the channel is the sheetrock, normal bldg practices will work on that.
Use 1-1/4 self tapping fine thread sheetrock screws to anchor the drywall, unless you find the non tappers will work, again fine thread. If you're standing there grinding away, use the tappers. Make sure you use a depth type screw gun, feather the trigger like has been mentioned. By the time you're done, you'll have the feel for it.
So, the carpenter screwed you too? Jeez man, you took a beating. Come to Ohio to the Fest and we'll drown your sorrows.
did I miss anything?
Where are you? isn't there anyone that can go help this guy out?Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Cal, thanks.This project is personal now. I've poured blood, sweat and tears into it, I'm not giving up. If I can get the damn tub in, I think the light may become visible at the end of the tunnel. I do plan to try to get a carpenter in to help with some specific tasks.I'm in Joisey, home of the Jersey Mud Job and (as far as I can tell) proud of it. No offence to Jerseyites on this board, they must be the few that care.Did I mention the door header? After the doorway got moved by a remodeller, it's basically a single 2x4 over a 4-foot span (with a bit of 2x4 above it). On a load-bearing wall. Guess what? It's bowing. Don't get me started on electricals....
north jersey to boot.....
There's guys here from there i'm sure. You shoulda asked for a referral here and you wouldn't be in this mess now.
And as far as the Fest, what the hell, you're only a ways away. And don't use that "aint done with my bathroom" line neither. Show up!
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
FWIW my daughter was born in Cleveland.... Have fond memories of Cleveland Heights.....
Irvs deli?
and at the very least, corky and lenny's.
Well I'll be. When?Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
1996/97. I had a job in Cleveland, DW was in Ann Arbor. She calls it my "truck driver" year (I drove to AA every weekend). That of course was the year she got pregnant....
for crying out loud, you went right by here. I'm where the turnpike ex 4 goes over to 475/23N/mile away. Fest for sure, you already know the way. Make plans and bring the wife, and daughter too I guess. Something for everyone. Hit cedar pt on the way.
Ha!Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Self tappers will work. You have to feather your screwgun trigger though. A little practice is all it takes. They won't cam out. Quite the opposite. The trick is in getting them in, hence the feathering.