fuzzy WRC siding shingles
Just had the siding redone, and many of the pre-primed WRC R&R shingles are kind of fuzzy, maybe one in ten or twenty, spread around. They are being painted, and the fibers end up sticking out stiff. It doesn’t look the greatest, but of more concern, they’ll probably hold onto water more than ones with a smooth surface. I’m guessing that the fibers will eventually wear off leaving small breaks in the paint. I’m painting with SW Duration, which is pretty costly, in the hopes of having this last.
Should anything be done about the fuzzy shingles? Quick scrape or sand? That would remove the primer from the exposed surface, but Duration is supposed to be self-priming. I’m going with two coats.
any suggestions?
—mike…
Replies
I'd hit them with some 30 or 40 grit and re-prime. Shouldn't take long unless they're all on the third story.
Is there no additional discussion because everyone agrees the fuzzy shingles should be sanded?
Edited 10/21/2009 1:00 am ET by MadisonRenovations
30 or 40 grit seems a "bit" aggressive, but yes, sand off the fuzzies if the bother you.
"When the spirits are low, when the day appears dark, when work becomes monotonous, when hope hardly seems worth having, just mount a bicycle and go out for a spin down the road, without thought on anything but the ride you are taking." — Sherlock Holmes, 1896
yeah, 60-80 would be fine in an orbital, but he may have been thinking of a hand job
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Sounds painful.
> Sounds painful.ouch!but to the reply, the paint sub said all new shingles lately have been coming with some amount of fuzz and if he had to sand them all the time, he'd have to increase price by 15%. I'm guessing a power sander is a pain to deal with - heavy, cords, dust,... Hand sanding is slow and creates dust.I was wondering if after the first coat of Duration, which has really stiffened the fuzz, a few passes with a pull scraper on the offending shingles might smooth things enough without much additional effort. They're hand rolling then hand brushing.While I'm at it: the shingle courses are getting sealed together with the paint as they hit the bottom edges of the shingles. Is that a problem in practice (not just in theory) for a non-coastal area? The north side has aged well, the south side siding was replaced using a rainscreen.thx,
---mike...
I would think the nubs would sand off easily by hand. I'd try 80 grit and see if it smooths down easy. I think you are going to just knock the high points off.
"the shingle courses are getting sealed together with the paint "This is what I meant in the other thread a few days ago when I said that I prefer not painting cedars. Wind driven rain gets behind at the vertical joints, soaks into t he wood from backside, and then they stay damp. With the new latex paint, moisture can mover thu it tho better that old oilds so you may not bee too bad off.
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ok, I was having a tough time getting my head wrapped around why anyone would be painting new cedar sidewalls.
"When the spirits are low, when the day appears dark, when work becomes monotonous, when hope hardly seems worth having, just mount a bicycle and go out for a spin down the road, without thought on anything but the ride you are taking." — Sherlock Holmes, 1896
This is starting to remind me of a customer I had who chose Maibecs predipped with bleaching oil.Two years later, he called to ask why the siding looked uneven and not smooth - you know, like vinyl siding....
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>ok, I was having a tough time getting my head wrapped around why anyone would be painting new cedar sidewalls.They're pre-primed WRC, so they need a coat of something, and I didn't want to be refreshing it every few years.
With apologies if I hit a nerve, but I would have topcoated them with a solid body stain. Should last way longer than paint and be more forvging to lack of maintainance.
"When the spirits are low, when the day appears dark, when work becomes monotonous, when hope hardly seems worth having, just mount a bicycle and go out for a spin down the road, without thought on anything but the ride you are taking." — Sherlock Holmes, 1896
>With apologies if I hit a nerve ...No problems. I think part of the reason we went with paint is DW has very specific color requirements, and there wasn't the range of colors available in stain. I also heard and read that paint done well can last 15-20 years, stain usually 3-5, solid stain maybe a few more. Also, solid stain supposedly forms a coating layer similar to paint, so can peel like paint, but doesn't last as long. We have a lot of shingled houses around here, and almost all are painted.Guess I didn't think to ask BT before I just went with the flow...---mike...
Depends on the thickness of the callouses.copper p0rn
Uh, I don't have any.
I wouldn't touch that with an 11 foot pole!
I thought he gave a fine answer so didn't ad to it.
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Nah, use one of those fuzz shavers they sell for taking the lint off of sweaters.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
See , that's thinking outside the box. Actually I'm thinking it may have been 60 or 80 grit I used.
I'd hit the worst of them with a medium grit sanding sponge, just to knock the nubs off. With Duration you don't have to worry about the tiny dots of missing primer, so just paint as normal. Of course, the painter will want something extra to do it.
~ Ted W ~
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