Hello everyone-
New guy here looking for some advise on how to correct a sloppy over frame gable end entry that has been added to what will hopefully be my first home. We are set to close next month. Shortly there after a new roof will be installed but I’d like to clean up this over frame intersection, add fascia, repair the stubbed out ridge and false wall beams, and replace the barge board before the roofer shows up.
Its been a few years since I hung up my bags and while working as a carpenter I never got to apprentice under any impressive roof cutters. We mostly rolled trusses, small attitions, trim, siding, and decks. I know this intersection is rather basic but I get pretty mixed up with unequal overhangs, rafter material and HAP. I haven’t verfied both roofs are the same pitch but for discussion sake lets pretend. I’ve got a copy of Will Holladay’s Roof cutters secrets on hand for a resource.
The main roof has 2×10 rafters, square cut tails, and a 3′ over hang. The entry way roof has 2×6 rafters, plumb cut tails and roughly a 1′ over hang. The beams returning back to the house that support the gable end rafters are 1.5″ lower than the wall plate (IIRC). The entry way gutters come right over the top of the main roof gutters and feed into them. I can supply any additional measurements/pictures required.
My goal is to maintain the large overhang on the main roof and not disturb the entry way beams. Everything else is fair game to chop up and change. A single fascia line would be nice too!
Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Replies
I'd extend the rafters on the porch gable out until the two roofs lined up. We call that "membering the roof line" here. Actually should be a pretty easy, quick fix.
Thanks for the reply.
So, match the heel stands on new, longer entry rafters; cut the last common rafter before inside corner on each roof to install a "flying valley;" and continue with the standard construction of a california valley? Can anyone shed some light on the process of calculating sleeper length? I'd rather not try to remember/revert to the archaic methods I was shown in the past.
Looking at the book, valleys with different size rafters and heel stands equate to unequal overhangs and an offset valley. There is no application given in relation to an overframe.
On second though, 3' over hangs on that dinky entry way might look a little overbearing...Assuming that is what it would take to line up with matching rafter heel stands.
If you left them open it wouldn't look bad. Take your level and put it on thebottom edge of the porch rafter. Slide it down until the top edge of the level comes fluch with the bottom edge of the house rafters. That will give you the width of the rafters and soffit on the porch roof.
Not sure if I'm understanging what you are saying. Wouldn't the level fall off the entry rafters before it would plane with the main roof rafters due to the difference in overhangs? Or are you saying once my new longer rafters are in?
I took a few more numbers if it helps any...
Both roofs are 4/12 pitch
Main roof rafters are 2x10 with an 8.5" heel heigth, over hang is 36" plumb up from outside of wall to the top edge of the rafter tail (sq cut)
Entry is 2x6 rafters, no seat cut 5.5" X 1.05 LL= roughly 5.75" heel (bottom of rafter lands on outside corner of beam) with collar ties sistered next to each rafter. 16" over hang to plumb cut tails. Beam they land on is 1.5" lower than top plate main roof rafters are on.
If I match plate height and heel height of the main roof's rafters can the valley be shifted to allow for un-equal over hangs? I am mostly concerned about placement of the fake valley tail. The alternative being to end the roof the way a gable dormer woud die back into the intersected roof but I think that requires the plates to be at two totally different heigths.
This one has been racking the ol brain.
Thanks