Here’s what I’ve got. Gable walls (ICF’s, yes ICF’s). Trusses between the gable walls. Trusses are piggy back. Top chords (sides) of bottom trusses are 2×8’s. Top chords (sides) of top trusses are 2×4’s. On top of gable ICF walls are 2×12 pt plates anchored into concrete with “j” bolts.. Gable ends are just about 5 1/2″ below top of trusses to allow 2×6 lookouts. I would like to have the overhang on the gable ends to start at 16″ and end at the peak at 24″ or 30″. It’s a 12:12 pitch roof. Question I have is what a good way to attach the lookouts to the first truss. I’m thinking of using Simpson joist hangers on the 2×8’s and Simpson angle brackets on the 2×8 pt plates. But what about connecting to lookouts to the 2×4’s top chords of the top trusses? Any thoughts woul be greatly appreciated.
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Replies
Just out of curiosity, were you going to put the joist hangers right-side-up, or upside-down?
Right-side-up.
Larry, think upside down
the force exerted against these lookouts will use the gable wall as a fulcrum (if it's resting on the top of the wall), wanting to pull that connection up.
Sorry I can't offer an suggestions on this flaired lookout question-never connected a fly rafter to a truss that was much more than a foot of overhang.
Set the truss back from the ICF gable
I would suggest that you set the first truss back at least 16-20" from the gable wall. This will help with some of the stress from the tipping forces of the overhang.
Although I would nail the 2x6 lookouts to the 2x4 top chord directly, you could sister on a 2x6 to the side of the truss if you wanted a larger nailing area for your hangers.
Just realize that the framing for the overhang will complicate the sheathing with my suggestion of setting the truss back.
Terry
This kind of construction is fairly normal here, and it's normal to set the first regular truss back one truss-pitch (eg, 24") from the gable truss. To put it closer just wastes expensive trusses.
I'd suggest sistering 2x4 under the top chord of the truss to provide nailing area (if your're really worried). Scab plywood or such on the back side to stabilize it. (Not that upside-down hangers holding lookouts should need the extra nailing area -- there's very little force on the lookouts unless someone jumps up and down on them, and they should be quite secure with only the "bottom" rows of holes nailed.)
Similarly sister 2x6 pieces on the top of the gable end truss between lookouts, to provide a firm nailing surface. (This I feel is much more important, though it seems to be rarely done.)
Are you suggesting "sistering" or blocking between lookouts? Thanks
Yeah, you'd probably call it blocking. It's not to hold the lookouts upright, though, but to support the sheathing. Without the blocking horizontally run sheathing will tend to have unsupported long joints, creating soft spots.