Here is the gable end truss for a project with a barrel vault ceiling over a porch.
One of the siding options for this gable is cedar shingles, and if we do that, we are wondering whether we can just sheet the truss with OSB and shingle to that, rather that fur the whole shebang with stuff on closer centers, before sheathing.
I’m thinking 5/8 OSB, not just the 7/16 stuff we’ll throw on all the other walls.
What say you?
Edited 3/4/2007 1:04 pm ET by Gene_Davis
Replies
Gene, I'm assuming that your osb would be sufficeint to hold the shingles. I'd suggest asking the truss company to slip in additional framing member between the wide spans. That would be easiest.
blue
"...
keep looking for customers who want to hire YOU.. all the rest are looking for commodities.. are you a commodity ?... if you get sucked into "free estimates" and "soliciting bids"... then you are a commodity... if your operation is set up to compete as a commodity, then have at it..... but be prepared to keep your margins low and your overhead high...."
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I think you want to furr it out so the shingles can dry if any water gets behind them. I'd lay 15# felt on the osb, furr horizontally over that, then nail the shingles to the furring.
Edited to corrrect my brain fart: You need to lay furring vertically first, and then strap horizontally over that; the shingles go on the strapping.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
Edited 3/5/2007 12:00 am ET by Dinosaur
Thanks, but absolutely no one does that here. #30 felt, shingles right over that. Done. Collect your $1.9 million at closing.BTW, this gable end has a 24" roof overhang.But most significantly, it's on a spec house.
I would consider using plywood insted of OSB in this case. Plywood holds fasteners better. When people don't know what you're about, They put you down and shut you out.
absolutely no one does that here. #30 felt, shingles right over that. Done.
Just because 'no one' does it doesn't make not doing it right.
Laying siding directly on the sheathing is just asking for rot. Water gets in, overhang or no. That's what water does: get in where you don't want it to. If you don't give it a way to get out again, it'll bite ya on the butt, guaranteed.
Besides, 1x3 is cheap, and how long could it take you to run furring with a nail gun--2 carps for an hour? What are you saving? $450 on a $1.9 million dollar house? Come on, Gene. You can do better than that.
Dinosaur
DON'T MISS THE FEST!
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
<<Just because 'no one' does it doesn't make not doing it right>>
You are not doing it right either. You have to install vertical furring strips first if you are going with horizontal strapping.
You have no drainage plain for water if you don't which defeats the purpose, so you might as well stick with nailing it straight on the wall.
Sorry, I thought I'd said that but I see that I didn't. You're quite right.
Dinosaur
DON'T MISS THE FEST!
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I wouldn't worry about the 7/16 OSB...that's good enough for Hardie! If it were me, though, I'd definitely ask my truss manufacturer to put in some more vertical web members to get to at least 2' on center. Even with 2' centers you can get some waviness in your gable end.
If you don't want more webbing in the truss, you could always put strongbacks on the vertical members you DO have and then nail a T horizontally to those members. I've done that on the last few big gable end trusses we've had and it definitely helps prevent any problems down the road. If you do all of the gable truss bracing before you set it, all of the strongbacking can be done pretty quickly.
Did you have anything in mind other than the 5/8?
Gene, I think I would get the truss company to add some webbing to at least get to 24" centers. i.e. just like a normal gable end, adding pieces in between webbs. 7/16 shouldn't be a problem.
Keith
I'm convinced now. This sketch will go out to the supplier tomorrow a.m., asking for more webbing where you see the dotted lines.My worst case scenario of a fraction over 2'0" is shown dimensioned.
Thats what I'd have done too Gene. The spacing might be odd, but that's not really that important. All too often we all tend to get fixated on 16 oc or 24'' oc when what really matters is that you have enough framing to stiffen something up to some degree. Up there in the gable, you don't need perfection with regard to stiffness.
blue"...
keep looking for customers who want to hire YOU.. all the rest are looking for commodities.. are you a commodity ?... if you get sucked into "free estimates" and "soliciting bids"... then you are a commodity... if your operation is set up to compete as a commodity, then have at it..... but be prepared to keep your margins low and your overhead high...."
From the best of TauntonU.
That is what I would be doing, and ply not OSB. myself.
Gene, sorry I'm late responding. That's exactly what I was talking about. That's how we do it in our shop.
Regards, Keith