Guys, I need some advice on how to finish some cedar clad garage doors. I know I should not use a film forming finish. But what is good? I’ll be able to back coat the cladding before it gets installed, so that should help.
These two doors will get quite alot of sun exposure and a fair amount rain splash, so I’ve already warned the customer they will have to be maintained to keep them looking good.
So what is the longest lasting finish? One of the marine products?
Thanks in advance, Rich
Replies
I like pen-ofin for that kind of stuff. Yearly applied if not more often.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
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Sphere, the penofin has a number of exterior products, do you have a favorite?
Rich
I seem to remember a blue and silver can, it's been awhile since I had used it and left it with the customer for reapply..he has it still, for an Ipe job I did. I saw the railing recently and it was looking like new, and he thanked me for the product.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
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I'll look on their website for that can. Thanks Sphere.
Rich
That is the only one I have ever seen, silver background and a blue triangle shape at the top. I like it too. To reapply, just clean the surface and apply. No scraping, etc. I always use a brush, but I suspect it could be rolled or sprayed. It probably would not get as good a penetration.Yearly for the first three or four years. Possibly bi-yearly after that.
Years ago someone posted a recipe for old-fasioned homemade wood sealer for shutters or something; seems like it was a mix of linseed oil and turpentine.
Anyone know what I'm talking about?I was getting ready to ask the same question as the OP. I will soon be stripping some beautiful handmade garage doors (full exposure) and a front door (covered porch and storm door). Would like a natural old fashioned finish, even if it means more maintenance.
Linseed and turp is a bad combo outdoors, the linseed gets black in no time. Pen-o-fin has some kinda mildewcide I imagine.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
Sikkens window and door finish.
Ditto to Sikkens. Have also heard very good things (haven't seen personally) about Messmers.
Bing and Waters, I was just looking at the Sikkens site, it looks like that product is a film forming alkyd varnish. I'd be concerned with peeling. You guys haven't had problems like that ?
nah.
Looks like polyurethane when it's on. 3 coats--built up.
Not a technical answer but it is the minute solids in the finish that resist the UV and apparently sikkens has more than other finishes and therefore lasts much longer--no peeling.
Thanks Waters
rirefalo
The absolute best most durable finish is a marine spar varnish.. The most durable of those is Eppiphanes however it is brutally expensive.
Eppiphanes will survive for over 4 years under harsh conditions although annual recoats will increase that time period..
For a reasonably priced marine spar varnish Interlux makes a reasonably priced one called I think Schooner. Petit and Zspar are also names some of my buddies who are deep into wooden boats use.
MOST HARDWARE STORE FINISHES ARE WOEFULLY POOR WITH REGARD DURABILITY AND PROTECTION OF THE UNDERLYING WOOD.
Thanks frenchy, I love the advice I get on here, thanks to everyone. I'll try to take some photos as the work progresses.
Rich
Sikkens Door and Window is a sacrificial coat. Sacrificial coat being the important part. This is good. Barrier coats tend to peel and crack, requiring chemical/mechanical removal. Spar varnish will require (is made for) removal. Oil finishes just don't last, so your customer must love frequent home maintenance.
What needs to be considered is recoating the doors. Oil will allow easy recoats. Most barrier coats won't recoat easily. Sikkens will get thin and worn looking as it ages. Clean with naphtha and brush on a topcoat, and you are good to go. This what it was made for - sacrificial coat.
Dave S
acornwoodworks.com