Way back in the day, the framers here at Pioneer did the foundations, framing, siding, and flatwork (slabs, sidewalks, patios, porches, etc).
It has been a long time since I worked on a garage slab. But now that things are really slow, we are pulling as much in-house as possible.
So I’m looking for all advice on working a garage slab. The house we just started framing has a garage about 21′ wide and the same deep, so it isn’t huge.
I’ve been paying attention to how the subs work, and I’m confident we can do a good job, but there is no substitute for all y’alls advice 🙂
We’ll probably wait until the roof is on so we have some inside work.
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| Lot 41 Sinclair Heights |
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Not too sure exactly what your asking, also, unsure of building codes in your area but to pour a slab from scratch what I do is get the dozer to level the area as much as possible. I then fill the area with 2"-4" of 3/4" crush for drainage. Over the crush I lay down 2" polystyrene foam board. Over that I lay 6 mil (super 6) vapour barrier and either steel mesh or rebar (depending on application). Fine tune the forms, your screed stakes and double check all form bracing then call the concrete truck. This time of year I order ("juice") accelerant & heated sand or heated water (depending on temperature and weather forecast) and pour the cement.
Once the cement is down, screed it, bull float it, install anchor bolts and wait. Once its hard enough to walk on I power trowel it to get a nice smooth finish. It's best to pour the concrete first thing in the morning so your not trowelling it late into the night. A word of advice - make sure the concrete trucks are pouring the cement immediately one after the other if you require more then one truck (which you shouldnt for that size). I just finished a pour and it got all screwed up due to the lag between trucks and boatloads of accelerant! Also, if it gets cold or into the evening its best to cover the slab with tarps or something to help hold the heat in as it cures, if it gets too cold during the curing process, the top layer of concrete will flake off.
I hope this helps! Good luck!
Tim, I'm not Crete guy but how did you keep the concrete from running out from under your forms?
All our work here is slab on grade and out footings are usually 12" deep and the forms sit on the sub grade and the footings and slab are usually done in one pour.
ML
We placed the concrete with a 5" slump through a line pump. Here is a photo album that shows how that worked.
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Lot 34
Thanks Tim Not near as wet as the 2 yards of soup we poured last Saturday.ML
That lot is kind of mucky and doesn't perk well, so the foundation hole is sloped quite a bit and we have a drain at the front. I was planning on filling in under the footing boards, but the Gordon, the pumper told me not to worry about it. He knows just how to place that concrete.
looks good.ML
My foundation sub will generally pour a very stiff mix for the footings, so that it doesn't slush out thru any gaps under the forms.
don't forget stronger.