We just ordered a new natural gas fired range for our kitchen – a basic no frills model. The old one was needing repairs.
The old one has loop of copper (maybe 6′ or so) connecting the gas line (cast iron? steel?)from the wall to the range. When you pull the range out to clean behind it or disconnect it, the loop of copper flexes. So I have two questions;
1) Is this type of connection common enough to not bother changing. It seems awkward to me to flex copper like that – doesn’t it put stress on the connecting points, not to mention the pipe itself, every time it flexes? I have seen flexible gas “hose” connectors (sorry, not sure of the proper term) and if they are reliable, they seem more sensible to me.
2) regardless of the type of connector, is it a simple matter to switch out a range and make the connections DIY? Apparently our city doesn’t allow appliance delivery folks to do this task, requiring gas company service reps to do it instead at $170+ a pop. Sure, I would rather not spend the extra $ unnecessarily. But even more than that, I just can’t stand the idea of a guy coming in with a crescent wrench, making a few turns, and saying “done.” just because some busybody at city hall didn’t think regular folks could handle a crescent wrench. I’ve never done it before, so if it’s tricky, I’m not going to try it. But if it’s not, I might.
Thanks
Replies
I don't think it's that hard. But you sound like you're not sure. Maybe a trip to the hardware store?
I grew up with gas stoves, water heaters, and heaters. So I'm at ease with the stuff.
But some people just don't trust themselves.
Code says you need a valve at the stove, so do you have a shutoff valve behind there? If not, you should install one where the copper begins. If the black steel pipe is threaded it should not be a big deal.
I don't fear gas but I am quite carefull. You need a pipe wrench and a big crescent wrench to put the valve on. You simply must put the pipe wrench on the pipe to prevent it turning when you remove or install the fitting. If you don't, and there is a joint upstream, you can loosen it and cause a leak. No big deal if the line is accessible, big big deal if its buried in a wall somewhere.
You also need to get a can of joint compound that says its rated for gas lines, usually teflon based. Easy to find at a good hardware store. Then a small jar of leak detector, which bubbles if you have a leak. Cheap. Don't use plumber's teflon tape, its not meant for gas.
You must get the install instructions for your new stove as it will show where the valve must go. Do this first as it will tell you if you are already close.
The new flexible gas appliance lines are in your good hardware stores. Be sure to get a large enough line for your appliance. The BTU rating is on the appliance and the flexible line.
Another big no no is connecting the flexible line to the stove without supporting the line on the stove. If you reef on the fitting without putting a pipe wrench on the appliance gas line you can break the line or the gas regulator in the appliance.
Simple job, just not a lot of room to mess it up and still be safe. Also, if you have to shut of the gas at the meter, be ready to relight your water heater and furnace pilot lights. http://www.etherhuffer.typepad.com
For sure drop the copper coiled line!
Copper is no longer a metal used with natural gas service in our local for reasons of corrossion/scaling and potential deformation/pull-out of the flare from the nut, thus causing a leak. Use the corrugated gas supply line as mentioned!
Check your work for leaks when done....water diluted liquid soap and a small bristle brush to lather up the connections while looking for that slowly growing bubble! If you have a good "nose", it will tell you immediately id you have a leak.
...............Iron Helix