Hi,
Got an older 10 hp Cub Cadet. It’s been sitting unused in an unheated barn for the last four years. I’d like to get it running again but am pretty “mechanically challenged” when it comes to stuff like this.
I was figuring on/can handle this:
-new battery
-fill tires
-drain and refill gas and oil
Am I dreaming that it might actually start and run okay? Any other simple things I can do prior to turning the key?
If it needs a carb rebuild I’d probably need to take it to the shop. On the other hand, my 12 year old boy could probably handle it…
Thanks for any help,
Todd
Replies
has gaas been sitting in it for the last four years?
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
Yep, long story but I never drained the gas. Stupid, I know.Thanks for all the good tips - plug, float bowl, etc. Can handle that stuff. My 12 year old lives mostly with his mom, not me (waahh). He called tonite and I asked him if he knows how to do a carb rebuild. He says yep, done it on a couple dirt bikes. Sounds like it's needed on the cadet.Makes for a good project this weekend together...after we catch (and grill) a bunch of trout on the opening day here in PA. Mummm...Ain't no mechanic but I can catch fish pretty good! Benny Boy's not so bad himself...I digress.Todd
step one...
drain and look in the fuel tank... if it's full of crud u might as well take it off and clean it out... hope it's a plastic tank... but u might still be good with metal... I dump the gas if there is any old stuff still in there... remove the petcock if you can... might have a filter built into it... i usually put soap & water in a tank with a couple pounds of rocks and shake it around to knock all the crud loose and flush with fresh water... blow it out with an air gun and let it sit in the sun to dry... make sure the petcock is clean and flows... blow compressed air through it... ckeck the fuel line all the way to the carb... blow it out or replace it... good time to put a cheap inline clear filter in...
step two...
remove spark plug... pour in an once of 50/50 gas & oil let sit (might do this first)
step three...
remove carb bowl... clean crud... i like spray brake cleaner... shoot some down the the fuel inlet tube (where the fuel line goes onto the carb) make sure it come out the jet above the hang'n float... if it doesn't u need to remove the carb and clean every passage... guss thats a rebuild... short of replace'n a few parts... bowl gasket u need to watch... other than that shouldn't need new parts if you clean everything and can blow through everything
step four...
by the shaft or drive pulley... rock the crank back & forth maybe 1/2 inch... work'n up to full circle... should feel free no rub'n grind'n ect... ... now drain the oil u want to do this now as the gas/oil u put in the plug hole drained in the the crackcase... do drain the oil... let it drain for awhile... for an air cooled Lhead engine u can't go wrong use'n $5 mobil one oil... just runs cooler...
now hook up ur new battery and spin it over... spark plug still out... if all spins well... time to put all back together hook everything up... and she should fire up... of course u need to clean/replace the air filter... ect... as long as you have spark... she'll run... if no spark... ask for next steps... good luck
pony
Thanks for the clear and concise tutorial.Appreciate it very much, thinking I'll be mowing on Sunday.Todd
You're on the right track with battery, air, oil and gas. I'd try to start it then, you're not going to hurt anything.
If it runs, you may be lucky and have to do nothing. If not, it's likely ignition or fuel. If you're not up to it, find a bud or take it somewhere. Shouldn't be much to it.
Listen for bad sounding noises if it does start. Shut down if it's making a lot of racket.
Rob
Weekend Warrier Supreme
sparkplug
I Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
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Make sure you remove the float bowl too and clean it. (If you see any rust particles in the float bowl, you'll probably have to head for the bench with the carb.)
I'd also pull the plugs and spray some fogging oil in the cylinders before you try to turn it over. They're bone dry right now and that means lots of drag and scuffing. Not a good thing. Try turning the engine over a bit with the plugs out first. If it whirls around freely, put the plugs back in and see if it'll start. (Actually, it would be best if you could turn this engine over slowly by hand first to make sure nothing is seized up. Pull the plugs before you attempt this or you're working against the engine compression.)
If gas has been sitting in it all this while, I'd add some Carb Medic to the new gas when you put it in. If the engine fails to start right off, leave it sit for a couple hours and then try again. There's a good chance that the CM will dissolve the varnishes in the carb during that time. If that fails, leave it sit overnight. If that fails, you're probably in for a carb cleaning and rebuild on the bench.