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Dan, I haven’t looked at this site in a while so I don’t know if it will help but you might try.
http://www.lrcproducts.com/lvlbeam_header_tables_combined_roof_floor.html
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Dan, I haven’t looked at this site in a while so I don’t know if it will help but you might try.
http://www.lrcproducts.com/lvlbeam_header_tables_combined_roof_floor.html
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Replies
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I need to open about 16' of a bearing wall. 4/12 roof sits on top, house span is about 35'.
My CABO book says a double 2x12 header is good for 10 feet. I figure a 3 1/8 x 11 1/8 glu lam ought to do it but I'd like to look at a chart. Does anyone know of any online span charts?
Thanks,
Dan
*Dan,
Joseph FuscoView Image
*These and any specifications for glu-lams and other engineered wood structural members are available from the manufacturers on CD Rom and any architect/engineer should have them. This is the last place I would be looking-----
*Being that the occasional architect/engineer like to hang out here, and that many builders here use engineered wood products I deduced that perhaps someone here would have a span chart handy or that they knew of one online (perhars at a manufacturer's web site).The last place I plan to look is exactly where I'll find my answer...
*Dan, my guess is that you'd be underbuilt.Blue
*Dan, I've looked all over the internet for the same glulam span tables, with very little luck. I found one site which compares a few common glulam sizes to other beam materials (even includes some loading values). Most of the I-joist manufacturers have I-joist span tables, but don't publish their glulam span tables on the internet.Try: http://www.anthonyforest.com/stockperformance.htmLet me know if you have better luck.
*You didn't mention what the live load is in your area (snow and or rain). Assuming a roof snow load of 40 psf (snow load in my area, southwest B.C.), a supported length of 18' including roof hangover (this is half of the truss span plus overhang), and header span of 16'. You would need a gluelam 3 1/8" x 18" or a 5 1/8" x 15".Assuming your double 2x12 header is adequate for 10' your snow load is more likely around 20 psf. This would translate into a 3 1/8" x 13 1/2" glulam or a 5 1/8" x 12". This is from my Canadian Wood Council span table. American tables may differ.Don't forget to provide at least 3 1/2" bearing at each end of your header.Parallam's can generally span farther than gluelam's for a given size.I believe you can see span tables on line courtesy of the Canadian Wood Council at http://www.cwc.ca They also have span tables for you folks in the U.S.A.
*Dan, I haven't looked at this site in a while so I don't know if it will help but you might try.http://www.lrcproducts.com/lvlbeam_header_tables_combined_roof_floor.html
*Dan - I know how to design glulams, but didn't comment on you post for a several reasons. First, you didn't give enough information to give an answer. Second, what brand of glulam will you be using ? They don't all have the same properties - they vary from brand to brand. And I don't have information on every brand out there. Third, I never give an opinion on an existing structure without going out to look at it myself. I haven't found homeowners to be reliable sources on structural info. Fourth, I know nothing about the zoning in your area, unless you live in central Illinois. It's nothing personal, Dan. But I think you're asking a little much of us here.
*Thanks Ron,I got my answer from the manufacturer. It's 3 1/2 by 11 7/8 which is basicly what I thought it would be. The house is in Tennessee (no snow load), stick framed roof with ceiling joists nailed to the sides of the rafters and a few collar ties above. I wasn't looking for the exact specs, I was mostly trying to figure roughly what size it would be so I could plan how to box it out and what to do about the trim... Mrs. Homeowner was hoping to recess the thing into the ceiling and that presented a bit of a challenge as to where I could slip it in. (I don't believe homeowner structural analysis either).After having another look, I noticed that the ceiling on one side of the wall is substantially lower than the ceiling on the other side of the wall (Tennessee framing), so recessing the beam into the ceiling would be a bad idea as it would really highlight the difference. Problem solved. Support the roof and ceiling with temp walls, slip in the beam and box it out with sheet rock, run the crown molding through.Have a good day,Dan
*I'm 5' 10", 150 lbs. I suppose that might be underbuilt, but I can keep pace with most of 'em...Dan
*It seems that they want us to buy a cd rom with their spans on it. Next thing you know we'll need to pay extra for instructions to go along with that new VCR.Dan
*Thanks Albert,Parallam is what we're using. I'll have a look at the Canadian Wood Council's site.Dan
*Okee Dokee Trent,Thanks.Dan