Glue-on tube-type weatherstripping
I spoke with the folks at Resource Conservation Technology today (website below), who sell silicone tube-type weatherstripping for doors, in two styles: one with a fin that goes into a routed groove in the corner of the door stop, and one that you glue into the corner with silicone caulk. I need to do three doors, and their tool for routing the groove rents for $70 a week – a bit steep. They said the caulk-on tube is quite durable if you follow their instructions- clean the surface thoroughly, keep the tube pristine while installing, etc.
Anyone have any experience with this particular weatherstripping approach? It looks attractive, but I’m always skeptical of things held on with caulk.
Their website: http://www.conservationtechnology.com/
Replies
I can't speak to the glue on stuff, but their installation tool and barbed stripping is awesome. I trust those folks. If they say it works, I'd believe them.
Andy
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert A. Heinlein
"Get off your dead #### and on your dying feet." Mom
I was considering trying to make the router-type installation tool, using a laminate trimmer motor held to a wooden base with worm screw hose clamps - doesn't seem like it would be that hard, and the principle of the barbed-type tubing just feels better.
Houghton123,
I have the router but sometimes pull the stops and cut a kerf in them with a table saw to accept the barb. Lots of old doors are so warped that the router method won't work. Sometimes I make a small applied stop with kerf.
KK
The kerf type stuff is the kind.
I have some that didn't come from ResourceConservation, it works great. A saw kerf is the way to go, pull the stop if you can. Lot cheaper too.
There was a thread here a year or two ago about jigs (I think) and I believe a couple of home made examples of a jig for a trim router to do what you're thinking.
Joe H
Edit, you can also buy the same stuff that's on just about all new pre hung doors at HD. Same deal, pull the stop and kerf it. Comes in about 7' lengths, cheaper than Resourceconservation, and it's in stock at HD.
You will have to move the stop as this stuff is going to need about 3/8" in front of the door, but it's a damn good seal.
Edited 11/10/2006 12:33 am by JoeH
Silicone adhesives work very well as long as the surface is clean and sound. There are many weather stripping products available. I've never seen a removable stop on a door. You may not have room for a compression style strip that attaches between the door and jamb. There are many surface mount strips that don't require kerfing, cutting the jamb or any alterations to the wood, they mount with screws and are adjustable.
http://amconservationgroup.com/catalog.aspx?catid=29
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I've used both styles, both excellent. Slight preference for the tubes. I keep rolls of both on hand.
The tubes come in more than one size. If you use too large for your gap you'll find the door very difficult to close. But it sure won't leak. It really is as simple as they claim.
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
I have the groove machine and use the barbed stuff. If you're doing this as a business, forget renting, buy the thing. If you're doing things yourself on your own house, you may want to put some time into making a jig to do the kerf with conventional tools.
For doors, you could also put the strip on the slab instead of the jamb. That saves you finagling the corners. Just pull it, remove the hardware, and kerf it with a circular saw and edge guide.
I see you're on the left coast. I'm in the LA area.
-- J.S.