I know its considered a bad thing but I was in one of those big boxes a few weeks back and decided to take a look at the 3/4″ thick x 2.25″ wide pre-finished hardwood products they had. I was reading a sign put in place by Armstrong, I think, regarding ‘proper’ installation methods. It went on to state clearly that glue, staple, or nailing be used for proper installation of their product (if I remembered that correctly).
I have not installed flooring before, but I have an up-coming small room project that I thought I could experiment in. I grew up being told that you left a gap on the ends (at the wall) to provide space for expansion due to moisture. Being that this project is now a focus, I have to wonder how much expansion can occur if every strip/plank is glued, stapled, or nailed into place?
The room is only 12’x13′ with a floor register underneath a window. Currently has original carpet and padding (all garbage-quality) with T&G OSB sub-flooring under that garbage. Just outside of this room is builder-installed 3/4″ x 2.25″ T&G hardwood, and I think I will install (in this experiment) using the same orientation.
Is there a majorical opinion on hardwood flooring (pre-finished vs. unfinished) and the installation methods (glue, staple, nail)?
Replies
hardwoodinstaller.com is an excellent forum.
Prefinished has the big advantage that, when the last bnoard is nailed dow, youare done and can walk on it. And they frequently have superior finishes. Unfinished flooring has to be sanded and varnished, which can add up to a week of time that the room can't be used.
Since you are going over a wood subfloor (as opposed to concrete slab) then nail or staple would be appropriate.
Which way does the other flooring run? Does it run parallel to the doorway, or perpendicular? If it is parallel, go ahead and follow the pattern. But if it is perpendicluar, you might want to install a threshold board, flush with the others, and then run the new boards. That way there will be a visual separation between the two rooms cuz the boards might not align.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
If I following the orientation of the hardwood outside the room ith would run the in direct of the door's width, which is actually a set of french doors. So, looking down at the threshold the wood would run left-right as opposed to away from the door.
would run the in direct of the door's width That's what you want. If it ran the other way, you could have a rteally hard time getting the joiunt lines to match.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
With a wood sub-floor is glue really not a viable option? I understand it is probably the only option for those installing over slabs, but just as curious. I wonder what would happen if I were to use a nailer when I reach the end of the room, which has a bay window at it that runs floor-to-ceiling.
When you get to the end of the room, the last couple of rows are face nailed.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Ah, my brain is truly on vacation of late.
Being in NE Georgia does anyone have any recommendations for a hardwood material supplier? I know there have been mixed reviews for Lumber Liquidators, but a friend just had a good experience (no complaints) with them for his order on engineered (laminant?) flooring. I plan on visiting them this or next weekend.
I just finished installing a buch of Lumber Liq wood. Mine was solid 3/4" beech, Bolivian cherry, and bloodwood. I am about to start a bedroom of Brazilian cherry.
The cherry is from South America and I think their quality control is a little lax. I had several boards that were 1/16" narrower than the others, and sometimes the thickness is off that much as well. That leaves the floor with an uneven surface. The narrower boards had to be held out until I had enough for a full row.
The beech was from Canada as was very consistent.
I had heard that special ordering from LL could be a problem. We (the HO and I) tried to buy what was in stock. In one case we had to call a distant store, and they had the material in stock, so we bought it over the phone and had them ship it. They charged the credit card immediately, but didn't ship for a week.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Ed, good information. Ooo, you installed the bloodwood. I like that stuff, and almost all dark/er woods. What was the application (room type) that the bloodwood went in? Was it expensive--as if I needed to ask. LL sounds like a fair place to go. Nice that they could ship from stores you were not in.
I used the Bolivian cherry and bloodwood on an enclosed porch, and the beech and bloodwood for an attic conversion. Here's a couple of pics.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Dang, Ed, you are giving me some terrific flooring ideas! If I did anything like that even with average results my wife would tear up the divorce papers she keeps in reserve! :) I see you used minimal bloodwood, was this because the idea was to have dark highlights (minority color)?
Minority color ... that type of discussion belongs in the Tavern fella.
Oh, you mean the wood. Yeah, we just wanted some accent color.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Tavern?
>>> With a wood sub-floor is glue really not a viable option?
Most manufacturers insist that for solid 3/4" material you nail them down. Laminate/engineered stuff is a different deal. Also, for many folks who use building paper between sub-floor and floor (why? different thread, has been discussed before), where does the glue go? You lay it on twice? With a roller? Bottom line is for solid wood, proper nailing (or screwing in some applications) is a proven method. Even on concrete slab, one installation technique specifies running sleepers (strips of wood) on the slab and nailing into them.
Not sure I understand teh second point about nailing next to the bay window. As long as you don't smash your hammer into the window (hammer wins).
Judging by your response, it sounds like you have installed a floor before, so I'm going to assume that you have brain-lock on the bay window. The nailer overhangs the edge of the board by about 10" plus room for swinging the hammer, so whenever you get close to an end wall, particularly one with a bay window, there isn't room to use the nailer.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Ed, that was exactly my concern. :)
>>> Judging by your response, it sounds like you have installed a floor before...
Yeah, good guess. Which means I am well aware of the limitation of using the nailer close to any wall or in any tight space. As answered already face nail the last couple boards. I think your assumption about my "brain-lock" is incorrect. I just didn't see any thing different between a wall and a bay window, & still dont, despite your elaborate explanation.
Well, a couple of times when I have been on the last few rows, I have tried to fudge a little and use the nailer a much as possible. Mine is an air-powered PC nailer, so it doesn't take a lot of arm power. And I almost always manage to ding the wall when the hammer bounces off the nailer. that's ok when it's sheetrock, but a bay window would be less forgiving.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
You should follow the manufacturers installation instructions for the type of floor you are using. Hartco makes Armstong floors and there are different types. Some you glue others you nail. This is their installation guideline site.
http://www.armstrong.com/reshartcona/article5069.asp
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
What if the manufacturer offers multiple installation methods?
Installation procedures are determined by job site factors such as type of sub-floor, radiant floor heat, above or below grade applications, etc. You can contact the manufacturer with any questions you have either in making a choice or with installation guidelines. Solid wood plank or strip flooring is normally nailed only. You would not want to glue down an engineered floor over a board sub-floor. The answer to your question will be determined by these factors and the product you choose.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Ok, I'll spend the time finding a product that appeals and then contact the manufacturer if not clearly stated on the product packaging. At the foot of the bay window there is a floor register. My entire first floor uses floor registers for source-venting. The house came with hw in the kitchen, breakfast areas, the hall leading to the foyer and the foyer itself. Several locations have floor registers where there is hw.
For face-nailing, is there a particular technique involved, like pre-dilling holes to minimize splintering, specific types of nail material, etc.?
Face nailing ... depends on the wood. For any exotic wood, like the Bolivian cherry I used, you have to pre-drill cuz the wood is so hard. Also, expect the tongues to split frequently on the exotic wood. For the beech, I was able to use my 15 ga finish nailer with good success. You have to be careful when you nail close to the ends of the boards, because that splits fairly easily, just like and board.
8d finish nails work well when hand nailing.
You need to buy a book. Taunton publishes one, "Installing wood floors" or similar. Check their main website and look in the book section.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.