Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 02:11am | #1

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   Did you try the 100% silicone first? Is that what the original builder used? I've seen one cedar house heavily caulked with 100% silicone... the stuff simply fell off in a couple of years. When we tried to re-caulk, nothing would stick to the silicone slime left behind. Ended up scraping to raw wood, re-caulking (with DAP 230, I believe) and re-staining. It has held up fine for about five years now.

   Anyhow, that's my experience... Steve

1. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 03:19am | #2

   *It has always seemed to me that the fiberous soft property of rough hewn cedar is what makes caulk not stick so well, especially silicon for whatever reason, maybe because it dries to more of a stiff rubber . It's like the "hairy" outer surfaces fuzzes away and whatever is sticking to it has no base for adhesion. By the way, please excuse all the technical verbage I am using (ie fuzzy, hairy etc...). I am assuming that you are painting this cedar but then if you are, isn't 100% silicon posing a problem for painting? I would suggest OSI (latex?) caulk. OSI has always performed well for me and stays fairly flexible over the long term. However, I personally would not caulk cedar siding in the first place.Pete Draganic

1. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 03:27am | #3

   *Stay away from the 100% silicone. It won't stick. I have had good luck with the DIP latex that has a silicon content.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 05:06am | #4

   *Vulkem #116 urethane base caulk for roughsawn surfaces. The more difficult to work with Vulkem #921 for smooth jobs. This my alltime favorite caulk for this application. What type of siding (t&g, bevel, channel rustic, etc) if you need more details.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 06:03am | #5

   *Never caulk....all your doing is making damn sure the water is trapped behind the boards....Did any of you pass Earth Science!!!...Remember Capillary action and differential pressures...etc...Fo get about it eh...near the stream wondering when builders will ever know what the h*ll they are doing...aj

2. 
   Bill_Brennen | May 04, 2000 06:25am | #6

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   My vote is for Big Stretch by Sashco. It is similar to the Dap "230" grade, but it is more viscous and guns on very well. I used it on several roughsawn cedar jobs in the early 90's and it is still there. Those jobs are in CO, FWIW.

   Bill

3. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 03:33pm | #7

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   For the record, near the river, I stated that I do not caulk cedar siding. I suppose if'n ya put it up right you shouldn't have the need for caulk.

   Pete

1. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 05:05pm | #8

   *Jack and/or Pete, What do you guys do about windows, especially fix glass with wood stops. Does anyone use polyurethane, it's paintable.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 05:53pm | #9

   *Caulk and seal around the windows before you apply the cedar siding.Same-same for doors.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 05, 2000 01:37am | #10

   *Flash all your penetrations well under your outer layer...And when in doubt, use Grace Ice and Water shield...apply from low point to high point on your walls, roofs etc...If you don't know this....sell the tools!near the stream,aj

1. 
   Guest_ | May 05, 2000 01:42am | #11

   *ps...Well now that I posted, you do know...so it's b almost possible that you may not have to sell the tools...near the stream thinkin early man was lucky that Earth came with caves...all ready to move into...no master boogerers needed...ajyou...being the "to whom it applies" you...

4. 
   gregg_stephen | May 12, 2000 04:43am | #12

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   if yoy must caulk, IF YOU MUST CAULK, if you must caulk,.......stain and seal your siding first, preferably all six sides.......(back prime and end grain) then use clear silicone if you dont have UV sun radiation worrys or the dap crap or a toned/ siliconized, paintable caulk before you apply your final coat of staim/sealer.
   botttom line very little sticks to unsealed cedar and a good carpenter won't leave gfaps for caulk!

1. 
   gregg_stephen | May 12, 2000 04:44am | #13

   *if yoy must caulk, IF YOU MUST CAULK, if you must caulk,.......stain and seal your siding first, preferably all six sides.......(back prime and end grain) then use clear silicone if you dont have UV sun radiation worrys,..... or the dap crap.... or a toned/ siliconized, paintable caulk before you apply your final coat of stain/sealer.botttom line very little sticks to unsealed cedar and a good carpenter won't leave gaps for caulk!

1. 
   Jerry_K | May 18, 2000 07:20pm | #14

   *Sounds like I'll probably have to remove some of the cedar siding and caulk better around the door (I kinda suspected that but didn't really want to have to remove the siding!). When you say caulk and seal, is there something more than caulk that should be used to seal? thx

5. 
   Jerry_K | May 18, 2000 09:34pm | #15

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   What's a good (by that I mean effective) type or brand of caulking to use on cedar? I don't know what the builders of my 7 year old house used, but it dried out and peeled off in places after only a couple years. I've tried re-caulking in one or two places where I've had water infiltration (around sliding door units mostly) but the types I've used seem universally to not stick to the cedar. I've tried 100% silicon, siliconized acrylic, DAP "230" advanced latex sealant. Any help would be appreciated. Thnx

6. 
   Guest_ | May 18, 2000 09:34pm | #16

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   come on.....

   stain / sealer wont stick to clear silicone..

   and a good carpenter had better have an idea of where he's going..if a caulk joint will be required, then he should leave room for a caulk.. joint...

   ITAWY that backprime all six sides of everything..

   but loose the silicone caulk, lord only knows how it every showed up on the first construction job anyway...

   get one of the paintable 35 or 40 or 50 year caulks..

   i'd use a good DAP..

   if you're really into a good caulk that requires more money and is harder to work with... get Sikka-flex..

   usually from a marine supply store...

   b but hey, whadda i no