Hi there,
After removing 2 layers of linoleom, we still have a mess.I am hoping for some advise on how to remove the gooey black tar substance on the 1920’s original oak floor of my house, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
scott
Replies
Kerosene works for me. If you have trouble finding it in the paint department of your Big Box store, look in the area where they have room heaters.
Practice...'till you can do it right the first time.
A question just like yours was asked several weeks ago, if you use the "search" function, you should be able to pull up the old discussions. It was either here or maybe at Breaktime. Someone mentioned that solvents may spread the stuff around and had a better idea (which I have forgotten--something like chilling it and scraping with a paint scraper).
There's even a thread below called "mastic removal" that has some answers.
Edited 10/18/2005 8:06 am ET by Danno
Don't know if this applies, but think it is worth checking out. Old black asphaltic adhesive used in vinyl tile installation often contained asbestos until around the 70's. I don't know what was used for wood flooring at the time. If it is just gooey, scraping could work. If there are dry spots, I would be very hesitant to dry sand any area. You don't want dust to breath in.
For a sheet vinyl installation, it was recommended we seal the residue (not lumpy) with Zinzer. I can tell you that after about 10 years, the black stuff migrated up and has discolored the vinyl flooring. Had I known that then, I would have had a new subfloor installed over the left over gunk and probably wouldn't have this issue today.
If the situation permits, the path of least resistance and likely the least risk, might be to replace the subfloor by cutting it out and removing it, unless it is a slab, or if possible add a new layer. The idea of doing homework sounds like very good advice. Bear in mind that any solvent residue and could interfere with new adhesive causing it to fail. You would also want to consider if the old gunk could interfere with the adhesion of any newer glue, just in case. If it's nail down, that probably wouldn't be a factor.
Just wanted to bring the possible asbestos issue to your attention in the event you need to consider it. Might not be a problem, but I am on the cautious side of the fence personally. My two cents, which might be worth nothing. If any of it saves you time and money and you get a great installation, it will have been worth it to me to chime in. Good luck on the new floor!
Actually it wasn't my post you replied to, but the original poster will probably see it. I had a house with old asphalt tile (like schools have) and was told they or the adhesive probably had asbestos. I originally covered it with OSB that I painted with a pattern to look like an area rug or carpet with a border, but I gave up with water based poly after too few coats and the OSB was like walking on Velcro if you walked on it in stocking feet. Before I sold the house the Realtor "made me" cover the OSB with carpet.
One other interesting thing in that house--the bedroom had cheap carpet and when I took it up there was an oily fluid under it. I finally decided since there were no pipes or other source of leaking water, that vapor from the crawl space below was coming through the plywood floor and condensing on the foam underside of the carpet and reacting with the foam. Some plastics smell like cat urine, and so did this fluid (and neither I nor any previous owners had cats). (Mylar drafting film really stinks like cat urine, BTW).
Anyway, sorry to sort of hijack this thread.
thanks for all your replys, turns out after closer inspection , that the floor in question is pine, and thefore will never match all the nice oak floors throughout which have been perfectly protected for the last 97 years with wall to wall carpet. so I will be tearing out the pine in order to match the oak.
S
My mother spent one winter doing this on our 1920 airplane bungalow. She used boiling water and a scraper.
Beware, this adhesive (the black stuff) most probably contains asbestos binder, which is why it is sticking so well. I would have it tested before going any further. Yellow pages, scrape sample, send in; it's a hundred bucks or so.
If it's positive, I would pay to have it abated. The pros can do it quickly and safely, and do a much better job. Don't know what your finances are, but it will take so many labor hours to do this yourself, plus exposing yourself to cancerous substance.