I’m getting quotes for Ipe decking and T&G flooring and am a confused about grading rules. Since I will be getting the wood shipped and the cost is high, I’ve got to be sure that I am getting the quality I want.
I obtained a copy of the International Wood Products Association (IHPA) Tropical Hardwood Machined Lumber Products Grading Rules which describes “Premium”, “Standard” and “Utility” grades.
One yard used this set of grading rules but another didn’t know it.
What are some of the grading rules used for tropical hardwood decking?
Replies
I was told one time by our lumber rep that what you want is First Export Quality (FEQ), Clear All Heart (CAH). This was a few years back, so I can't be sure if it's really used or not.
Thanks. I think I saw those grades in an issue of FHB. I'll ask about them.
I just got a reply to my "what grading rules are you using when you say #1" question to one of the yards that quoted Ipe to me. They replied "natural grade".
I'm not a woodworker but I don't think "natural grade" is an official set of grading rules. ;)
That's a good one. "We guaranty this wood comes from natural trees."
:) Maybe I should have been suspicious with a name like "Lumber Liquidators". Seriously, they are probably a fine company (I think they used to advertise in FHB) and I just didn't ask the right person the question. I'll keep trying until I get something that sounds credible.
The only desiginations i've seen with ipe are air dried and kln dried. Both are clear. I'm assuming that the KD might be the nicest stock to start with (you think they'd use the 'best cut' for KD). Not sure how much better it could be though, since the air dry stuff I use is pretty nice !
OK thanks. I'm starting to think that I'll just have to drive out to the supplier myself to inspect the wood before I buy. Problem is that the closest supplier that I can find is 6 hours away (one way) ;)
I think you said you were in the Ottawa area...where you buying from 6 hours away?
Regards,
Tim Ruttan
A&M Wood in Cambridge. Adams and Kennedy (aka The Wood Source) can also get it for me but I know that they'll be expensive (they always are). I'll get a quote from Adams and Kennedy anyways though.
Both of these guys are closer to you than Cambridge:
http://www.woodsthebest.com/index.htm
http://www.centurymill.com/
Regards,
Tim Ruttan
Thanks. I have asked Lacasse (woodsthebest.com) for a quote already. Just haven't received a response yet.
I'll check into century too. Thanks for that (their web site appears to be down right now though).
I was discussing with a potential client on weather or not she should order the Ipe from an internet business or purchase it locally just in case she has a problem. She said she's going to order it from NY (we're in Salt Lake) from Ipedepot.com. She said they had the best price going. I would be too afraid to do that, but it's her deck. If anyone is curious, I will let you know how it works out for her. I don't think I am going to do the work but she lives close enough to me that I may stop by and see how it all turned out.
Thanks clarkster. If you do happen to see the wood or finished deck I sure would like to hear what the quality of the wood was like.
e2 ...... we buy our Ipe' from Liberty Cedar.... they also advertise in FHB..
anyways.. Liberty last year switched from air-dried to kiln -dried.. said it reduced the checking in the installed decking
the invoice said 5/4 x4 E/E....... whatever E/E is Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Thanks. I'm assuming that this "E/E" wood is high quality stuff suitable for decking (no or tight knots, few pinholes, no splits and wanes, etc).
Liberty delivers to Boston.. and yes , that Ipe' E/E was pretty good stuff
here's a cut out for a deck light.. and the arbor screen end.. and a long viewMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I agree, the wood like just fine. I'll get a quote from Liberty.
P.S. Nice job on the deck. Is that a carbide router bit you used?
Is the lattice made of ipe too? I know that cut ends have to be sealed. I assume that would apply to any ripped pieces too. I guess the thing would be to make sure little to know ripping would have to occur... Does the stuff really destroy cutting edges quickly? Matt
matt... no ... as far as i know rips do not have to be sealed... only end grain.. and WE did not seal the end grain, because the Owner used a sikkens finish after we got done
the Anchor Seal definitley leaves a discoloration when you seal the ends
it's a little tough on tools , but not bad.. the hardest thing is predrilling all of the screws..
we used a GRK SS trim screw which takes a #10 Torx bit.... we must have blown thru 30 bits... if you can get the GRK Torx bit... their's is hardened.... lasts a LOT longer
e2.... all of our its are carbide.. with that fitting i precut the hole with a saber saw and then fed the router real slow.. ( after screwing up some boards the first time )
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
The latest issue has an ad from them, but there are enough reports circualting that their service is last to none to be careful dealing with them.
I did by a $10,000 order from them once, and the product itself proved satifactory, but I HAD TO WORK MYSELF TO THE BONE TO MAKE THEM UNDERSTAND WHAT IT WAS I EXPECTED, WITH DETAILED PURCHASE ORDERS, repeated phone calls to their telephone answering machine, and arranging the delivery myself.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks for the heads up. I am having the same experience. I have been exchanging emails with a sales rep who is giving me obtuse answers about the grade of the wood.
Unless there is a significant savings I will likely go with another supplier. Unfortunately, I'm having a tough time finding people who carry it.