Replies

1. 
   ponytl | Jan 18, 2006 10:16am | #1

   if it was me... and it ain't..... 

   3/4ply  and i'd get hardie soffit board  4x8 is common  but it can be had in 4x10... same material as their backer board just bigger and it's maybe 5/16 or so...  alot less joints..vs the 3x5sheets

   mastic then tile... i'd do em as tight as i could get em... then unsanded the same color as the ur tiles..

   p

1. 
   Wango1 | Jan 19, 2006 07:58am | #5

   What kind of mastic are you using with Natural stone? All that I know of would cause major problems...

2. 
   dfkirk | Jan 18, 2006 09:07pm | #2

   I reccommend belt sanding the countertop first (if it's plastic laminate.)  Then set your tiles right on with Superflex thin-set mortar by TEC.  It's made for this application--says right on the bag o-k for application to laminate , vinyl etc.  Other manufacturers might make similar--just check with your local tile specialty shop.  Sanded grout is for wider grout joints only.  Width of grout joint is personal preference.  for 1/8" or less unsanded grout only.  I've done this in the past with great results.

   -Don Kirkpatrick Renovation.

1. 
   andybuildz | Jan 20, 2006 03:55pm | #12

   I've said this here before but here goes again....When I did this in a previous house I laid the tile on the diagonal.I used 18" tile which ended up at something like 22" on the diagonial. In my opinion it gave more of a flow to an otherwise boring "soldier" look. I also used 3/4" ply and 1/2" Wonderboard which gives you approx. 2" w/ grout a finished thickness of a typical slab of granite after adding a bullnose I fabricated out of the same material (cherry) as my cabs.

   The bullnose helped extend the counter out to 24". I also butt the rear of the counter up to te backsplash which gave me yet more depth (approx 3/4" more).

   The bullnose I made in an "L" shape so the top "lip" sat on top of the ply the same thickness as the tile CBU and grout and the other part of the bullnose covered the face of it all. I used the same tile on the diagonal as my backsplash.

   Got nothing but compliments on it. The most difficult part of doing tile on top is keeping all the tile flush to each other. If you don't the entire job looks like crap.

   I butt the tile tight together and then used unsanded grout with no problems ever. The  bevel on the granite edges are plenty for grout and personally I think it doesnt look as good with any seperation at all. Also makes it easier to not go off in spacing tiles no that thats the reason I did it that way.

   Have fun

   andyThe secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!

   When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides, I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace. I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.

    

    

    

    

1. 
   paulg | Jan 20, 2006 11:23pm | #14

   Thanks everybody. I know this has been talked about out over and over but appreciate your going thru it again for me. I was intending to use an oak edging, the floor is oak, but I like the sound of the diagonal tile with the L shaped edge. The sink is double bowl cast iron and they really like it so it will be reused.
   Paul

3. 
   sully13 | Jan 19, 2006 03:47am | #3

   paulg

   Don't set that nice tile on top of old laminate tops.  The heading of your post said it was granite tile, right?  Build up the appropriate substrate to set the tile on: 3/4" cdx ply, thinset, backer board (using the larger hardi panels is an excellent idea), and then the tile.  Make sure you attach the substrate from under with screws, not through the top before tiling.  Does the tile have a micro bevel on all 4 edges?  If so then hold the grout lines to the thickness of a flat toothpick.  If it is square cut(probably not) then hold the grout lines to the thickness of a round toothpick broken in half with the broken part down.  Like the other good folks said, use unsanded grout.  I like to create some spacing between the edges of the tile to give the grout more bite, as opposed to butting the tiles very tight.  You don't need to worry about a waterproofing membrane because you are not going to be showering on the counter tops.  Buy a good quality sealer (Aquamix) and apply according to directions.  Good luck. 

1. 
   IdahoDon | Jan 19, 2006 08:12am | #6

   Make sure you attach the substrate from under with screws, not through the top before tiling.

   Curious why you recommend this?

1. 
   FastEddie | Jan 19, 2006 08:22am | #7

   Curious why you recommend this?

   Me too.

     

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   EricPaulson | Jan 19, 2006 02:41pm | #8

   That makes three of us.

   My guess is rust from the Piffinn screws iffin the ct gets a soaking.[email protected]

    

    

   It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been

    

    

    

2. 
   LEMONJELLO | Jan 19, 2006 03:02pm | #9

   Either used some long screws and screwwed a drawer shut or it acted like a stopper and hooked on the back of the drawer, he, he, he!! seen it.As the kid of a long time tile guy, couple things to mention.
   Dont forget the edges i.e. if you got 24" deep cabs and you tile to the edge, how do you finish the edge? A piece stuck to the face with a joint on the surface looks like BUTT
   pull it all forward enough to put the face piece under/flush with the edge of the surface tiles.
   Fill the back gap with thinset or your buddys pencil, etc, then back splash it.Sinks- bottom mount/ top mount? different details for either. I've used gloss black quarte round and inside corners with dark colors and it looks fine(save from making round cuts in tiles the polishing etc...Unless you plan on pouring a lot of water on the counter top, all the membrane isn't gonna help much, although out of habit i put down some Paper (tar) or clear thick poly. Are you worried about water leaking into the cabs? Your decks are flat, your water would run off to the floor anyway...
   Most leaking is around the sink, my suggestion-liberal use of sikaflex.As far as spacing, Butt em or super close with unsanded (wont need much)
   grout it, sponge it, rub over the joints with a little dry grout, it helps fill in the sponge marks and little hole and rag it down and yer done. Sorry for the monologue guys
   Land of the boring 4/12 hip roofs...

2. 
   sully13 | Jan 19, 2006 04:51pm | #10

   My original thought may have been a bit ambiguous.  I am recommending that you secure the 3/4" cdx ply to the cabinets from inside of the cabs through the corner braces or stretchers, as opposed to running screws from the top through the ply and into the cabs.  The reasoning is that it would make removal of the tops easier if the tops were ever replaced.

   sully

1. 
   LEMONJELLO | Jan 20, 2006 10:53am | #11

   you lift a counter top with cement board, tile thinset, grout attached in one piece?
   Nice try, and let me know how it wentJust kidding, nice point though, for a laminated surface or something lighter.
   ive redone a top where there were no screws/nails, just about 9 tubes of PL glue, yeah, never do that again....Land of the boring 4/12 hip roofs...

1. 
   sully13 | Jan 20, 2006 06:03pm | #13

   Yeah, I just kick in the super-human strength!

4. 
   jstew | Jan 19, 2006 06:42am | #4

   I just finished the very job your asking about.  I used a double 3/4" plywood top then a thinset approved for plywood, ( white will not bleed like the gray),  and 1/16" grout line.  You want to see the granite, not the space between them, so use a grout the same color as the tile.   Do not use mastic as it is not impact resistant.    

5. 
   xhakr | Jan 20, 2006 11:35pm | #15

   I did my very first tile job on a laminate countertop for my very own parents in 1985.  I used Keralastic Kerabond thin set mortar-right over the old laminate--after pulling out the sink and backsplash. The plastic laminate was in good shape (no air pockets). I also used sink edge tile for the sides.  It is still holding up to this day.  However, I wished I used larger tile and smaller grout jounts.  If possible, I would use epoxy grout.

1. 
   IdahoDon | Jan 22, 2006 04:43am | #16

   If anyone is interested in polishing equipment for granite tile edges check out http://www.defusco.com .  They fill orders quickly and had a good sale on a Flex water grinder and set of polishing pads for under $400.  Their pads have been of a much higher quality than some others costing about the same.