I am installing some pre-manufactured guard rails. Will notch out the posts and bolt them to the joists of the stairwell. I plan on a half-newel and 3 full newels with 3 sections of railing between. Material is clear hemlock, turned 3 1/4 newels and 1 5/8 spindles. Rail and shoe mould are ploughed out for balusters (spindles) and fillet strips. All to be painted.
What is the best way to join the rails to the posts? Dowels, screws?
Thanks.
Replies
Rail or Hanger Bolts
http://www.hangerbolt.com/rail_bolts.htm
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
The problem with using rail bolts is it is not possible to secure the post first, install the rail bolts and then fit the rail piece onto both rail bolts.
I like to use 3" screws and plug the counterbore hole.Bear
Duct tape.
Drywall screws if you want to go high dollar but people associate the shiny silver look of the tape with quality so it is going to be all the rage in a few years. Use it now and your ahead of the curve. A real fashion trend setter.
Had a bad day???
duct tapethat is sooooo nineties . . .velcro strips are 'in' now.
I mark the profile of the rail on the newels, then rout in a mortise using a 1/4 in. straight bit. The corners of course, I square up with a chisel. If you're halfway decent at freehand work, this technique is really quite easy. A sharp bit is essential, and I don't hit the line on the first go round. In fact, I rout the scrap from the center first, then sneak up on the line. Half an inch is all you need for mortise depth, which I do in two passes. 8d finish nails toed in prevent withdrawal, although I'm greatly tempted to start using pocket screws now that plugs for the tapered holes are available.
The advantage of mortising over bolts is that you can set the newels first, then bend them enough to fit the rail. Also, a mortise joint is as close to bombproof as you can get. With practice, mortising is faster than rail bolts, as well.
Note that this technique works only with level rails, not those on the stair.
Andy
Andy Engel
Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig.
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
None of this matters in geological time.
Andy,
Could you post a picture or two? I have thought about what you are saying but never did it, I would appreciate a picture to see the mortise and your setup for doing it. Ever thought of mortising the rail fittings too?What does this situation in my life ask of me?
There's no setup, really. All I do is chuck a 1/4 in. straight bit in P-C 690, clamp the newel to a low bench, don safety glass and muffs, drop to my knees and rout. There's naught to it.
I do also rout in level fittings.
Andy Engel
Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine
Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig.
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
None of this matters in geological time.
I use railbolts, too. Cut a slot in the bottom of the rail at one or both ends. Slide the rail down over the bolts, glue in a dutchman cut from some scrap railing.
The rail bolts let you tighten the rail to the newel. Pretty important, IMHO.