Replies

1. 
   Joe_Hennessey | Nov 27, 2001 09:28am | #1

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   Gabe, I haven't done it in almost 40 years. Looking back, I think I probably took all the value out of what was a collector gun. Came out nice though. That was long ago when I read and followed the directions if I'd never done something before. Joe H

1. 
   Gabe_Martel | Nov 27, 2001 02:28pm | #2

   *Joe,I hadn't done it in about the same amount of time and was surprised at the choices available. Turned out nice as well but was just curious as to what others may have tried.Not to worry about collector value here. This one was built from parts a dozen years ago and rebarrelled to 357.Gabe

1. 
   Art_B. | Nov 27, 2001 04:00pm | #3

   *Read about an original S&W technique and tried it on .36 navy revolver (repro, not original). Dip bare clean metal in linseed oil, roll in bone meal, bake in oven just like chicken. Worked absolutely great, deep even blue. Only technique is support so all gets heated evenly without leaving spots (used 3 point support at unseen places when assembled).

1. 
   Gabe_Martel | Nov 28, 2001 01:10am | #4

   *Art, I seem to remember something about using bone meal, but I thought it was to reproduce the look of case hardening.How did it wear?Gabe

1. 
   Joe_Hennessey | Nov 28, 2001 02:48am | #5

   *I've learned over the years to stay away from kitchen with my projects. Especially that turkey baster. Handy looking thing, but it's a no-no for sure. Joe H

2. 
   Gabe_Martel | Nov 28, 2001 03:01am | #6

   *Joe,I haven't learned to stay away, I was banished after miscalculating with my skill saw over my wife's antique elm table.Gabe

3. 
   Thomas_Cummings | Nov 28, 2001 05:05am | #7

   *Gabe,That reminded me of the time my dad cut the picnic table in half. The old sidewinder depth adjustment lossened and went to full depth. I saw what was happening and yelled at him to stop. He turned purple and lectured me about talking to someone who is operating a power tool, then finished the cut. I was half way down the block when that table parted.Remember when you could just run away for awhile?Thomas

4. 
   Joe_Hennessey | Nov 28, 2001 09:00am | #8

   *Gabe,Turkey basters are cheap. Your wife's table is probably not a replaceable item. And I'm sure I ruined that pistol. Joe H

5. 
   Mad_Dog | Nov 28, 2001 04:12pm | #9

   *I tried to use a cold blue to reblue a shotgun I had lost in a lake after sinking a duckboat.It turned out miserably. Luckily, my work wore off quickly, and it's just like bare metal now.Would sure like to know if there's a good way to do this.

6. 
   Art_B. | Nov 28, 2001 05:27pm | #10

   *Gabe:The part (the cylinder)I did with just rolling in bone meal did not wear as wellas the other parts. I did the barrel & frame(the .36 navy was a BP kit)buried in bone meal in a cake pan (another kitchen appropriation) with 1" of bone meal under and 1" over, the barrel has not worn, but then it does not get as much wear as the cylinder either. PS: I've a separate kitchen stove/oven in the basement for curing paint, potting, blueing, etc. so I don't get yelled at for stinking up dinner.Also once tried a swabbed mixture of Ferric chloride and HCl, absolutely could not keep rust from showing up with that concoction.

7. 
   Stray_ | Nov 28, 2001 06:59pm | #11

   *I'd like to re-blue a Belgian Browning auto-5 shotgun from the 1930's (Was my grandfather's gun and I just shot a deer with it 2 days ago...never lets me down). It's lost much blue, and has some slight rust pitting started. Judging by the mixed results mentioned above, I'm leery about mesing with this myself. Is it pricy to have a 'smith do it? $50? $100? $200?I'm worried about placing the thing in the oven and messing up the temper on the spring steel inside the action (Or do I remove all the "guts" and just bake the receiver housing and barrel)?

8. 
   Gabe_Martel | Nov 29, 2001 01:17am | #12

   *Hi MD,The little one that I just did worked out fine. The trick, if there is one, is to spend the elbow grease to polish the steel as best you can, the better the polish the shinier the blue.Cover all the parts you don't want blued with masking tape.Use a good degreaser twice to make sure that all the grease and fingerprints are off the steel.Follow the directions to the t and it should work out fine. Gabe

9. 
   Gabe_Martel | Nov 29, 2001 01:21am | #13

   *Stray,Yes it can be pricey for a gunsmith at times. (100 to 200 on average)As long as you spend the time to sand and polish to a lustre, follow the directions exactly, you will find the bluing part the easiest.By applying masking tape to all the parts you do not want blued, you don't have to strip the gun to do a cold bluing. Always best to remove the stock and forearm though.Good luckGabe

2. 
   Gabe_Martel | Nov 29, 2001 01:21am | #14

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   Had to redo a little 92 in 357 and once I had it polished used Kleen Bore's Black Magic.

   Not too bad of a job. What have you guys tried and how did it work for ya?

   Gabe