I’ve got a small gutter job to do on my own house – 22′ and a downspout.
I’ve never done gutter before. I have done some soldering before with stainless steel and with copper. Is galvanized iron gutter any different? Any thing I need to do besides flux and solder?
Edited 1/5/2006 3:39 pm by jase
Replies
Is this half round or K style ogee gutter?How long a lengths are you using-10 foot lengths?How will it be hung-with overhead straps or fascia hangers?
Soldering gutter is more difficult than plumbing fittings,just takes some getting used to.
If you can fabricate and solder the whole thing on horses on the ground then hang it you will probably get better results as a first timer.
k-ogee gutter, 10' lengths, overhead straps. I've some scrap I can practice on.Jase--Is there a better way?
It's a lot easier to solder the would be vertical areas if they are on the bench.
What type of irons are you using-flame is not a good way to go.
50/50 bar solder is a good choice.
Have at it.
I thought I could use a torch. I've got a cheapo iron from Wal-Mart.
Why won't a torch work?Jase--Is there a better way?
>>>>>>>>>>Why won't a torch work?Too large of an area. When you get part of it sweated, the solder will run out of the part you already soldered when you move to the next area. An electric iron won't get hot enough. You need a soldering copper. The copper can be heated with your torch. You'll need muriatic acid to flux with and you'll have better luck with 50/50 solder as slateman said.Birth, school, work, death.....................
http://grantlogan.net/
Aren't there sopem extra precautions for fumes with galvanized, too? Or is that just for welding it?
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Not to answer for Grant, but I don't think galv is bad with solder temps, welding is lot higher and the vapors then become more toxic...drink a lot of milk is what I was told.
I wonder how the OP is soldering Stainless steel?
We silver soldered mild steel, stainless wire cable and solid stainless parts at a job I worked making orthotics and prosthetics-custom back braces, leg braces and artificial limbs. Freehand bending stainless and aluminum bar stock, some titanium now and then.
Strictly silver solder on all the steel at that place. Parts were of various alloys of stainless that I can't remember.Jase--Is there a better way?
Zinc fumes-hence zinc poisoning if you burn the coating.
For light exposure
Symptom-Upset stomach
Cure- Fresh air- Drink milk.
Are you sure your working with Galvanized and not Galvalume? I'm sure there is still a source for Galvanized Gutters-but not in my area-everything's going to Galvalume or copper.
If so- you can't solder them-- Caulk then screw or rivet. Since your run is only 22'-- a seamless gutter has a cleaner look. Since you want to DIY, a gutter company will spit that out for you at there shop no problem. I paid a buck a foot for 2-30' lengths I had made, just had to be careful hauling them. They were also a heavier gauge than what was available at the Big Boxes.
Whatever is at the local hardware store. I know it's now aluminum, copper or plastic.
I don't really want to do it myself. The gutter guys around here only have answering machines, it's a small section of gutter, and I thought it might be easy enough to do.
Having a shop fab them for me is a great idea.
ThanksJase--Is there a better way?
I vote for having it made up in one piece. Make sure your measurements are correct. Most around here let the K type gutter hang over enough on each end to allow for the drip edge and shingle overhang. You may want to have the drop outlet installed too. Again, make sure it is in the correct place. Transporting a 22 foot piece can be a challenge. Consider strapping it down to a extended ladder or better yet, do they deliver? Be careful hanging it.........they can buckle and a repair of that is a PIA. Just some thoughts. Mike L.